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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/19 in all areas

  1. dave.vitesse

    indicator issue

    The 21 Watts per indicator bulb plus 2.2 watts for the dash bulb is for the running current. You have to allow for the instantaneous current when the voltage is first applied as the bulbs have a much lower resistance until the filaments warm up. An Anti-surge fuse is the answer, however these are not available for vehicle fuse boxes. Therefore you have to go for a higher rating. 21+21+2.2 Watts = 44.2Watts. W/V 44.2/12 =3.7 Amps. 3.7 Amps is the running current. As Rob said 5 Amp is slightly marginal, this is due to the instantaneous start up current. I would use a 7 or 10 Amp fuse. Dave
    2 points
  2. Hi Chris, Have you made any progress with this? There's a lot that can be said above door-fit on Spitfires/GT6s! Firstly; OE panel fit was never that good. If one looks at Triumph's original publicity photos from the 70s one can see panels alignments that look hideous by modern standards. Secondly, as commented on by other members, is that poor sill replacement can be a problem - further compounded by problems with the floor pan and rear wing if these have been worked on. A relevant check is to use a long straight edge (a six foot steel rule is ideal) and check the straightness of the full length of sill from the front right back to the rear wheel arch. Both in plan (side) and in elevation (bottom edge) the structure should true to within a couple of mm. Concave or convex deviation is all too common on repaired cars. Then there's the matter of doors which have been repaired. Doors which have had full skin replacements can (often) be distorted so worth inspecting for witnesses of this. The shape can also be lost if repairs have been made to the bottom of the door and/or lower lip. Best detected by removing door cards and inspecting for evidence of welding from the inside. But less of the doom and gloom! To adjust the doors one has to bite the bullet and then engage in a lot of trial and error. Remove the striker plate, remove furflex door seal and protect all edges with masking tape. Slacken off all six fasteners which attach the door to the hinges ( four bolts and two countersunk, croos-head, setscrews). This should allow the door to move on and out but also pivot (top moves out while bottom moves in and vice versa). One has to be prepared to push and shove and make repeated attempts. If there is insufficient adjustment all is not lost. One additional factor can be hinges which have been replaced. Some aftermarket replacements are too thick on the face which bolts to the scuttle. On one car I had to skinny off 3mm off both to get the door to sit inwards far enough. Conversely one can add shims under these faces to increase the adjustment - Even just a 1mm paper shim under the top hinge will throw the bottom of the door in quite a bit. Hopefully some or all of the above might produce a satisfactory result. Once the alignment is correct the striker and furflex can be replace and adjusted/remedied as required. I hope all of this is some help. My only other thought is not to engage in cutting/welding or panel beating until every other avenue has been explored. Good luck Regards Chris
    2 points
  3. Colin Lindsay

    Adjusting tappets

    Small profit, quick return. Shed & Buried's motto.
    1 point
  4. NonMember

    indicator issue

    I'd have thought a 10A fuse should work for the indicator circuit. You could probably get away with 5A but it's slightly marginal.
    1 point
  5. clive

    Puma powered spitfire

    Ouch. Not good... Hope it is a straightforward fix ( one way or another) At least you know it all works as a conversion, which is the hard bit.
    1 point
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