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  1. I All As a returning member to the club I thought I'd check to see if there are any previous mentions about my Vitesse - Came across this thread. I am happy to say the car has survived, I picked it up from a seller in Potters Bar in September 2020, not sure what happened between 2017. I bought it as a complete project car so over the last 12 months took the body of for lots of chassis & body welding and a complete mechanical going over. I was hoping to bring to a meet but that looks realistically something for 2022. Its not finished yet but picture attached anyway Cheers, Tim
    11 points
  2. dougbgt6

    Joke

    db
    7 points
  3. Bfg

    Joke

    5 points
  4. Bearing has been shimmed forwards by 3mm. Pivot pin shimmed forwards by 2 washers. Clutch spring plate checked for levels. flywheel removed and missing spigot bearing replaced. Its all back together tonight - just - albeit it with the tunnel and carpets left to put back in. I now have very little play on the arm - and a fantastic operational clutch. The PO had clearly spent a lot on this with a garage - new clutch, master, slave, hydraulic pipe, rebuilt gearbox and was still left with a knackered car - the fault frankly was obvious but I was looking for an exact answer. Clearly there’s something obscure with something in there - and shimming it has just overcome whatever it is. It’s done 750 miles in 4 years he owned it and it was never right. One mans loss is another mans gain 👍.
    4 points
  5. 4 points
  6. Bfg

    Joke

    4 points
  7. Bfg

    Joke

    I second that. Pete.
    4 points
  8. Just a slightly different view of my Vitesse when out this morning. Regards Paul.
    3 points
  9. 3 points
  10. Many thanks Mathew/all for the quick and very useful responses. For the avoidance of doubt, I love the car, have done so much to it and am deeply attached! Of course a judgement can only be made looking at the car, probably with paint removed from problem areas, but the discussion really helps the thought process. Although used several times every week and without obsessively avoiding rain, I avoid salty winter roads (Except soon after I got it - my daughter having bought herself a Cinquicento on her 17 birthday and got me to teach her to drive, realised that as a named driver on my classic policy she could get insured on a 2 litre sports car for £200 a year and borrowed it for a year. She learnt a lot though, manual choke, overdrive, rear wheel drive in the snow etc). It’s always been garaged, the garage has a lifting beam and full size inspection pit so I’m forever underneath spotting any problems early. Most of the time it’s been waxoyled, but in recent years I switched to regularly using dinitrol. If I’d known what I know now and used the latter from day one it would probably have faired much better. I love working on the car, but suspect that your right Mathew, new welding skills would be for this one job and take time to perfect. Current thoughts are, patch it well for now, start attending club meetings and learning more from others, then find a good body man and get the sills and bottom of rear arches done. Get proper spraying kit and make that the new skill, that way I can spray the repairs myself then rub down and respray whole car. I’m already not bad with rattle cans. Later take the bonnet off and get that repaired if bodging not sufficient. Thing about the overall respray is that a previous respray by others was not perfect and pulled away at many of the seams. Everyone said the only answer was to strip down to metal, but I’m not so sure as most of these areas I’ve dealt with and seem ok, all just a bit amateurish. Derwent valley probably my nearest club and seems fairly active now. Onwards Dave
    3 points
  11. KevinR

    Joke

    The other moderators and I are getting fed up with tit for tat complaints about posts and posts that are rude, sexist and just downright crude. We’ve tried to tidy things up but some of you just won’t take the hint. If things carry on the way things are going, rather than dishing out black marks, we will start requiring posts by certain people to be screened by a moderator before they go public, or even more drastic measures. Take this as a warning, calm things down, keep things polite and worthy of a forum that is the public face of the TSSC. If you want to descend things to a childish gutter, please post it elsewhere.
    3 points
  12. Well a while back i said in a post i pretty much get my cars through chance and strange meetings! With the help of some friends collection today! About a month after first making the deal! Many thanks to my wife and colin and his mate dave, as i could not have done it without them. Got out of breath just stearing the car! Its a tight fit but its all tucked away. The yellow spitfire is going to be finished first, before even touching this. The opportunity was too good to leave and this now means i have four triumphs! Will have to look into declaring sorn as the log book is a 2010 one with it already being Historic. Built oct 1972 from the heritage certificate, registered march 73. The funny thing is i might have been a passenger in this car many years ago! It came with many panels to repair it, but a few still to get. I intend to keep it as original as possible, including the colour 72. Thanks go to andy for letting me have the car and waiting for everything to fall into place. Colin and david for collecting the car and dropping it off at mine, getting it in the garage for me. Justine for doing the running around and getting the bits in the garage as i watched! Watch this space, but unlikely to do anything until spring next year.
    2 points
  13. Mathew

    Joke

    2 points
  14. Mathew

    Joke

    2 points
  15. Bfg

    Joke

    ^ i know.. opening a packet of dry roasted peanuts is becoming a real challenge, but the ratchets are only of any use.. once you've got to the nuts inside
    2 points
  16. poppyman

    Joke

    2 points
  17. Bfg

    Joke

    ..guess who's just faced insurance renewals again
    2 points
  18. If you have a tanker, you will have a que following you!
    2 points
  19. RogerH

    Stuck inside

    Rust Roger
    2 points
  20. NonMember

    Stuck inside

    I think we may be miscommunicating. There is a thin rubber ring between the chrome bezel and the dashboard, which you fit as you're installing the gauge. Those are, as you say, thinner. However, if you actually dismantle the gauge there's supposed to be a rubber ring between the chrome bezel and the glass, to prevent it chipping the glass when the tabs are bent over. Those need to be as deep as the bezel.
    2 points
  21. poppyman

    Joke

    Re the clock, i was told they were a "barbers" clock put opposite the mirror. Tony.
    2 points
  22. Bfg

    That was a year that was..

    A little more progress ..in the right direction After the weekend's exercise I was hurting. I think the sutures are breaking up, as they are supposed to do, and after so many sit-ups and twists working under the car (albeit on stands).. the wound itself is being pulled. Whatever the reason., it's very tender indeed. Bottom line is that I did nothing particularly physical yesterday, so today ..before the seasonal weather closes in I wanted to get Katie's rear suspension sorted. Today's plan was simply to swap out the coil spring collars on the rear LHS. If I get it right, it ought to lower the height the 10mm needed to true the car up, and also increase the negative tilt of the wheels. As said in my previous post ..the question is ; would these estimations be right. ? These are the spring collar options I have available to me at this time . . . ^ Top left is a rubber collar, as previously fitted, the spring sits on the rim whose thickness is about 1/4" (6mm) which soon squashes down to being 4 - 5mm thick. To the right of that is the poly-bush collar fitted by M&T, which as you can see has a larger overall diameter and a thinner inside brim. Its rim is 7-8mm thick and so probably soon squashes down to 5.5 - 6.5mm thick. Bottom right is one of the rubber collars previously fitted under this car's front suspension's coil spring. Larger in diameter and its rim is only 1/8" thick, but the impressions of having been used suggest that it doesn't squash down very much at all., let's say to 2mm. The advantage of the larger diameter rim is that it helps prevent this . . . ^ the collar seen squeezed out from under the spring ..when the spring load was reapplied. Clearly isn't going to do it job so it had to come out again. Perhaps it should have been assembled dry.? Anyhow it happened both top and bottom and so I used the new rubber collar (kindly supplied to me by M&T) at the top, in place of this previously used and slightly contorted one, and then I used a large diameter collar at the base, within the trailing arm's recess. ^ The front spring's collar is a larger diameter (inside out out) but just about squeezes into the rear coil spring, and then sits well in the trailing arm's socket. So with those swapped out, it was time to lower the car, load it back up and re-assess the car's ride height and rear wheel cambers. . . The results are perhaps a little better than hoped, with the LHS of the car dropping from 396.5 to 381mm, so 15.5mm. As before, the measurements were from the underside of the wheel-arch to the wheel-hub centre and so is independent of tyre size or pressures. That's more than I had previously planned (which was 10mm) and is a result of my using the very thin front spring collar in lieu of the original type rubber one. I'm happy with that ride height, as recorded as a static load with 150lb driver and passenger. I suspect it'll settle a little more with use ..which will then be even better for when I drive alone. The camber of that wheel has changed just a little more than predicted, because the ride height was changed more. So rather than -0.4 degrees it now measures as -0.44 degrees, which is a tid-bit of a bonus ..as my arbitrary target was -0.5 degrees. The RHS of the car, although its suspension was untouched, measured a drop in ride height of another 4mm. The only explanation that comes to mind is that the car is now sitting level rather than on a tilt. Whatever the reason, I'm glad for it. The ground clearance under the chassis side rails (one side to the other) is within 1/16", with either side now sitting between 5-11/16" and 5-3/4". I'm very happy with that too. Its negative camber has increased because of the car's tilt being corrected, and now measured as -0.94 degrees ..which is more than my target. Next I altered the load condition once again, to simulate no passenger and with me (105kg) driving. Without the weight in that side, the LHS rose by 11mm but the reversed tilt of the car changed its camber to be -0.51 degrees. I like that. With the additional weight in the driver's seat, the RHS of the car dropped by 5mm and the camber (because of the car's tilt) swung back to -0.58 degrees. I like that too ..but for the implication that I ought to loose some weight ! That's it., the rear suspension is set up to where I wanted it for solo driving. The rear's ride height is now acceptable (..the body mounts are new & thick so the body is a tad high on the chassis but I'll live with that).. and the car is even from one side to the other. You may recall before the chassis swap Katie was riding particularly low on the RHS. Most importantly for handling, the rear wheel camber on either side is so close to my target figure that... I'll not write more about it .! I just need to crawl under the car once again to tighten all the bolts up in this load condition. Then it'll be.. Job done.! And if i can do it without specialist tools, then so can you Bidding you a good evening, Pete.
    2 points
  23. wimpus

    Spit 1500 body repairs

    My seats where bad after 3 years, as was my armrest. So bought leather ones from Owen around 2017. Beginning of the year my bottom seat cover, the stitching failed. Another Spitfire owner that I helped out fixed it for me. The carpets are getting a bit worn after 8 years. But in a way, still look good. My doorcards where very rotten.. So I got the vinyl off and made new wood (do got a new set of door cards from Owen in my stock. Dashbord is cracking and on the sides damaged from moisture. Planning to buy a new dash from a guy in Ireland once Fox is painted.
    2 points
  24. Mathew

    Gt6 mk3 - third time lucky

    Done worse! Will certainly keep me busy for a few years though! The good thing being though, i can take my time and have another 3 triumphs, i will be able to drive when I want! A position I've not been in about 15 to 20 years! Normally only having finished a car i have had to sell it to fund the next car!
    2 points
  25. Would the camping mat foam which is a closed cell waterproof type product work?
    1 point
  26. As the spitfire system
    1 point
  27. mishmosh

    1st 'breakdown!

    The setting is “qt”. Quite tight”. Yes just jam the blades but don’t damage them as you may get an inbalance
    1 point
  28. Took a little while to get the flares right but one line made! Now to start the run to the back!
    1 point
  29. thats good the ideas have got a resolve now onwards to driving her Pete
    1 point
  30. Yep your right these are for the rubber trims which have a filler bead. The original tools used for this have a hole through the handle for the filler bead. Used them many times back in the day, remembered that you have keep a constant Inward pressure on the filler bead into the joint, other wise later as the joint relaxes the blooming filler contracts a hell of a lot. Use plenary of lubrication (as with so many things😉) I used to fill the opening in the main section with washing up liquid first then use the filler dry, but making sure the tool triangle section was well lubed up. When you come to close the joint leave plenty of excess material and don’t trim it off. Give it a few days for it settle then over cut it so that you have to force the two ends together, this will ensure that you don’t get a gap in the filler later.
    1 point
  31. The pedals must be on the other side due to it being so small you need to sit in it with your legs across the other side. After all my last gt6(yellow) the rear seat could only be used if you sat with your legs across the other side.
    1 point
  32. Mathew

    GT6 restoration

    Are you going to paint it with teeth and dripping blood 😄.
    1 point
  33. yes but pictures show the fork pins and carrier groove to be fine , the spring cover has the shorter of the two carriers barry has raised the sperical post with a packer and about to space the thin 16mm bearing is the arm collapsing ?? or distorted /bent ??? swapping slaves or adjusting master cyl strokes wont help a basic withdrawl arm is fouling the housing apperture before its stroking the clutch this is really very odd all appears correct but it doesnt stack up.......... the platform height seems correct also now even wondering if there is clutch hsg problem rather than the operating guts ???? Pete
    1 point
  34. NOS can be good but with a wiring loom, I would be a little concerned that the vinyl insulation may have lost plasticiser and become hard and brittle over nearly 50 years in storage. Not as bad as when exposed to high temperatures under the bonnet perhaps, but personally, if I was rewiring a car, I would play safe and buy a brand new loom from the Club Shop, Autosparks etc, avoiding the risk of old insulation failing. Nigel
    1 point
  35. 68vitesse

    Spitty at the seaside

    Isn't that base jumping? but you are allowed a parachute. Regards Paul
    1 point
  36. Hello Barry. I used to have a mini with he same problem:- Crunchy first & reverse. I found out that the clutch pipe hose was failing, when in use. Bleeding the clutch won't show up the fault, only in operation. Have an assistant to depress the clutch when you can inspect the quality of the hose. It took me a week to find it, and I had a complete new clutch stood by.... Argh!! Extending the slave operating rod is a possibility. For testing, try a longer rod (IE, an old bolt). This is for test only, I should suggest. The objective of the test should prove/not prove your clutch system is working. If you need to move the slave cylinder, there are ways & means to achieve that without too much trouble. For a last throw in, check the clutch pedal fulcrum is doing its job. If your pedal travel is taking up slack excessively... It's not an exhaustive list, but I hope you get to the problem. Cheers, Ian.
    1 point
  37. Mathew

    That was a year that was..

    The front made quite a bit of difference, im hoping that this will make it feel more planted. Waits with bated breath!
    1 point
  38. Pete Lewis

    Static timing

    well it is to Triumph 4 and 6's all are No1 at the front Pete
    1 point
  39. Chris A

    Trunnion removal

    That is a purr fectly valid question. Am I allowed a paws before I reply?
    1 point
  40. Mathew

    Gt6 mk3 - third time lucky

    Found two new engine valances and steel quarter valances inside! Got the hatch and passenger door open. Put a tub of silica gel inside to help dry it out. Done yesterday. Thats it on this car promise , until the yellow spitfire is done.
    1 point
  41. Mathew

    Joke

    1 point
  42. Mathew

    Spit 1500 body repairs

    Looks nice, i think it would go for the three pieces just in case i needed to get behind for the heater, as i have had to do that in the past.
    1 point
  43. JohnD

    Joke

    Thank you, Kevin! Dunce's cap and corner for me then, I hope with several others, where we will all learn to play nicely. Before I go, may I third the above? John
    1 point
  44. Chris A

    Phew! She started :)

    Warning! Thread drift : Is this the longest internet link posted on the forum ? 🤔
    1 point
  45. PeteH

    Joke

    Boris has been on the phone.
    1 point
  46. Pete Lewis

    Vitesse Mk2 Propshaft.

    your nearest looks like https://propshaft-services.co.uk/ they come up as Bailey Morris a good run away ive used there eaton soccon facility cost £140 for a brand new prop for the 2000 messing with Jub clips wont do a dynamic balance always run a file over coupling mating faces any hammer marks or burrs need flatting pete
    1 point
  47. PeteH

    Vitesse Mk2 Propshaft.

    It take a Loooooooooong time to balance a prop shaft using the Jubille clip(s) you go on the road and keep getting underneath to shift it/them a fraction. You can put it on axle stands and run it. (at your peril). Took weeks to take the vibration out of an old moggie minor belonging to my son. But if you like a challenge?. Pete
    1 point
  48. Pete Lewis

    Trunnion removal

    Ian have a bush kit ready you may find they need changing while the trunnion is dropped Pete
    1 point
  49. Very interesting piece in the newspapers at the weekend on Ethanol; according to the journalist it's all driven by American crop farmers, particularly the corn growers, who pushed the USA Government in 1985 to add ethanol made from corn. It emits fewer emissions at the car exhaust but actually causes more pollution to create than petrol. HM Gov claims that the reduction in exhaust emissions by using ethanol will be the equivalent of putting 650,000 cars off UK roads. I think they mean that literally.
    1 point
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