p7rider

No not yet. I gave my wheel to an upholsterers to look at over the winter. I mentioned the kit to them . It might cheaper to buy the kit about £32 and gave them stitch it on. However the picture example on ebay the leather doesn't extend up the wheel arms like the original.

Colin Lindsay, no it's a complete one piece cover , that then has to be stiched around the rim. As per original

I want to recover my original spitfire 1500 steering wheel. I have seen some kits on ebay that look a good way to go , providing they fit. They are a leather kit and require stitching to the wheel. Has anyone tried one? If they need alterations to fit then it might be better to start from scratch. Thanks

I've ordered a switch that'll come in at 100'c . I'll see where that starts the fan on the gauge. I tried pointing a laser heat gun at top and bottom of radiator. But as mentioned when stationery the radiator will not be cooling as well. There was a drop though , perhaps 7'c

No the fan only cuts in at slow speed queuing and standing still. I was concerned that as i have a 95'c switch in bottom hose. And I think the fan comes on to soon (cold). Most people seem to use about 85. As the radiator should have about 10'c cooling. Hence why I wonder if some hot water goes straight out the bottom hose before cooling in the matrix

Midway

After changing the adjustable revotec unit for a bottom hose fixed switch. On 95 off 87 i started at 85 off 80. I find my fan now comes on just past half way on temp gauge. I used to set tge adjustable one to cone on at 3/4 . Also I fibd ut switches on and off very quickly, sometimes in seconds. I wouldn't have thought the water cooks 8 degrees that quickly. I wonder if the flow of water through the radiator is not even . As in some enters the top and quickly goes straight to the outlet rather than through the matrix? If i fit a higher range switch so it comes on at 3/4 in the gauge will it really be too hot. Should I go by my gauge or temperature on the switch. Many thanks a long explanation.

Does the background colour not matter?

Yes I've noticed that before. Sane goes for headlight deflectors

I've had an alloy GB badge mounted under the bumper on my spitfire 1500 for years. Looking into getting a new UK one and realised my old one is technically illegal as its too small. 180x133 is legal size . Where have you mounted your GB/UK badge on a spitfire. And if it's a stick on one will it come off or damage the paint. Thanks

Slightly off topic my inline revotec unit has been eaten away by galvanic corrosion. I think it has a bad earth . Now I think I want to fit another inline switch , but a standard preset one. What temp range would be recommended for use in the bottom hose , on 1500 spitfire?

I made mine from acetal and top hat shaped with the wider diameter wear the leaves slide about 2.5mm thick then made a 1/2 spacer block and have a nice ride height with a bit of negative camber

Thanks Joseph, I'll have another look.

Since refurbished seats I can't get the passenger base to fit correctly. It's always on the skew.pointing inwards at the front. The 2 circular hooks at the back of the seat frame, should the wire base loop over the top or under these? Here's a picture showing the base hooks .

I have no idea how to add a diagram . Basically one feed into existing wiring loom feeds both lights because they are tee"d off.

Bringing this topic to life again. I bought the same relays/wiring harness as others from ebay. To me it looks like too many wires as i do not wish to run a separate connector to each light , Cutting the terminal block from one set of wires and fitting 2 bullet connectors i fitted these to 2 the original 4 hole connectors(black plastic covered) . these then take a wire to each light as original . to me this is more straight forward. But without using the other terminated lead am I overloading the single run? I hope this makes sense

I made my own from delrin rod. Turned a top hat shape to fit the location with a larger head to spread the load. I think the head was about 2mm thick . Similar to Collins drawing. I think 5mm will raise the ride height too much. Interestingly the recess where they fit on my spring several of them had a rivet head in, from joined leaves? Which meant I had to drill a clearance blind hole in to clear. This wasn't affected by the original soft buttons which formed around them

Thanks Colin, I'd looked at those. Wasn't 100% sure of part numbers.

Not sure where I read about the quality of brake master cylinder seals, if its been discussed on here I can't find it , so apologies for asking again. Is there a supplier of original nos seal kits ? Or if not who is recommended? Thanks very much. I believe I read some new seals are not the correct profile to seal properly. Looking for a late 1500 spitfire with single brake line. 5/8 bore

But our cars are the correct way. For instance you can turn on the indicator whilst changing gear. It's the new cars our designed for left hand drive

I think I remember reading you can use a left hand drive indicator if you flip the stalk round in the mount. Though it may not be that simple.

Had a pump rebuilt in the 80's after 2 new qh ones fail from day one. Its still working to this day. Can't say if it was the same company but good to hear about EP

update ... After grinding out the recess to accept the handbrake lever . Cylinders are now fitted . After spending Easter trying to seal fluid leaks. I've removed the worst cylinder and I can see that the bleed nipple is only seating on half the hole. I was expecting to maybe find a poor quality mating surface and had made a reseating tool but this is actually off centre. Or more likely the hole isn't threaded squarely. utter crap

Thanks for replies . Worked out tube length again . Dust shields are .020" thick . So tube length I've used is 1.980"