Mjit

At a guess something like 0.9% of the worlds homicides occure in the UK so, by your logic we should do anything to try and reduce the numbers as it's not going to make any real impact on the total number of homicides? SOMEONE has to take a lead and so be able to speak from the moral high ground, saying "Yes you CAN do it, we have.". Question is, does the UK want to just be a country of sheep who follow or the world leader we like to claim to be?

Yep, London's air quality was (probably still is) below WHO 'safe' levels and was sited by the coroner in 2020 as making a "material contribution" in his ruling on the death of 9 year-old Ella Kissi-Debrah in 2013. At that point in time some piece of national legislation had been passed that made local government responsible for NOT breaching WHO 'safe' levels and so the Mayor of London had to do something to at least show steps were being taken or else the London Assembly would be facing a line of solicitors queuing out the door with claims for compensation. This of course gives us the almost comical situation of the Conservative party campaining for the Mayors job on the basis of him introducing the ULEZ, something he (or Shaun Bailey had he won for the Conservatices in 2020) had little choice about doing...due to national legislation passed by the Conservative government. And for the anti-ULEZ crowd I'm interested to hear what alternative solutions people on here can suggest to (mitigate the huge legal costs of not being at least seen to be doing anything to) tackle air quality that don't involve using the stick of charging polluters and using the money to fund the carrot of providing cheap public transport alternatives...

One bit I found very confusing was they had a chassis with a bent D/S hinge box and front chassis rail so to "save money" bought an entire Spitfire chassis for £250. A Spitfire chassis with a rusty D/S front chassis rail. To replace the damaged D/S chassis rail/hinge box, parts you can buy for less than £250... Ech?

You'd prefer the London Assembly to be spending significant sums of money on some rigid, inflexible system that would need to be completely rebuilt (at the same full cost of building the current system) should a future Mayor want to change things? I did enjoy watching the Conservative Mayorial election party political broadcast last night. There wasn't a single mention of what their candidate would do if elected just 100% "evil Khan", to the point I expected a video clip of James T Kirk going "Khan!!!!". And I have to say "their candidate" as the only mention of them was their name/photo being flashed up for 1s at the end so all I was able to take from it was they they were female.

While you probably don't need a relay with LED headlights it's not going to hurt to fit one. As for where to fit it I don't know the Dolly 1500 wire diagram but I'd bet there's a 4-way bullet connector just behind the front panel where a single feed wire splits into two wires, one to the left headlight the other to the right. Given where the battery sits I'd bet you can find a convienient bolt near it to mount a relay+inline fuse then you can: Unplug the current, single 'input' wire from the 4-way connector. Connect that to the input side of the low current/switching side of the relay (normally pin 86) + a new earth wire from the output side of the low current/switching side of the relay (normally pin 85) to a convienient earth point. The light switch now powers the relay switching circuit. Connect a new wire from the battery +ve terminal, via the inline fuse, to the input side of the high current/swiched side of the relay (normally pin 30) + a new wire from the output side of the high current/switched side of the relay (normally pin 87) to the newly vacated hole in the 4-way bullet connector. You now have a direct battery->fuse->relay->headlight circuit.

Do they also print an out-of-date phone number and the address the business was at 6 years ago? Like it or not, just like the 1/4 page ad. in the magazine a website is a marketing channel for the business, one that currently doesn't shout "We're compitent, reliable and keep an eye on the details". If you don't want a website/just an email address don't put the website address in your print ads!

Hey, could be worse. I mean you could have a full colour advert for your business on page 41 of the brand new look Courier magazine...including a website address that doesn't work. They aren't too far from me so I was going to check them out but not sure I'll bother if they can't even run a website.

That's basically what I did with index cards - but without bothering to re-inflate the tyre. Certainly if you're using rattle cans you're unlikely to blow out something lightly tucked into the gap between rim and tyre. Deffinetly a lot quicker that any tape method!

Broadly correct - but unless you're installing some water spray or dry ice bath (which only really applies to dragsters) you're not going to cool the charge below ambiant air temperature. The reason they are used on super/turbo charged engines is that the charger forced a volume of air into a space with a smaller volume, increading its pressure over atmospheric and, given there's no such thing as a free lunch in thermodynamics, increasing the temerature of the air in that smaller space. This means more oxygen atoms end up in the cylinder - but not as many as you could have and also causes other temerature issues. An intercooler lets you remove some of the extra heat compressing the charge via the charger added, meaning a cooler (then non-intercooled) charge in the cylinder so a few more oxygen atoms and fewer other temperature related issue.

While your math is (I'm assuming) correct you (a skint Triumph) can easilly weld two ~1" sections of cheap, straight pipe into the end of a ~1.5" deep airbox but for a single piece of 2" pipe you either need a straight pipe and 2.5" deep airbox, which could fowl the inner wheel arch or a flaired pipe and 1.5" deep airbox, which is an additional manufacturing process so additional cost.

I happened to spot it playing while flicking channels so added a series link to record all episodes...which I deleted again after getting to the next ad break it was that underwhelming. Why can't we get some actually interesting/different classic car shows, like the old A Car Is Born series? Why instead do we have only; one half decent one in Wheeler Dealers, one just about passable one that you can watch in 30 min. by skipping all the back story/handover BS in Car SOS, one to watch and think .oO(Are these guys actually trying to lose money?!?!)Oo. to watch when there's nothing else on in Bangers & Cash: Restoring Classics, and a couple of others that just aren't worth watching.

Have my new look Courier and all very high quality and professional - but I can't help thinking it must be expensive too?

My Kenlowe one certainly went open circuit when the capillary bulb failed. Never worked out how/why it failed as it switched the fan off after parking one day and failed while just sat there parked. Recharge battery and reconnect and fan kicked straight in (on stone cold engine). Pulling the probe from the top hose uncovered an inch long split in the bulb.

Never been a fan of those capillary sensors - even before I had one fail, which puts it into an open circuit and sets the fan running in the garage until the battery's flat. Just £15 more than the silicone 'sleeve' for some solid state, non-leaking goodness - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282802366937?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lpFSprNpStq&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (30mm ID and either 90° or 95° - for a Spitfire bottom hose at least)

I wondered why they seemed to have used one of the chunky Lucas SPB106 style push buttons like I use as a push starter button on my Spit. as they require quite a firm push - but if you actually need a strong spring that's probably why.

They do reduce noise a little bit, from the sping leaves sliding against each other - but so does a good squirt of spray Lithium grease between where the leaves touch every few years. And they do reduce wear, caused by that leaf rubbing - but you'd probably need to drive 50,000+ miles to be able to see anything. They also make reassembling your spring a royal PITA as they keep trying to escape and need to compress the spring a lot more to do up all the shackles - and that's with an original spring with the little recesses for the buttons. Aftermarket replacement spring tend to be simple 'flat' strips of spring steel. I did replace them when I overhauled my orginal spring 30 odd years ago - and found most of the rubber had crumbled and escaped after a couple of years. I've since switched to an aftermarket replacement spring and run sans-buttons without issues.

Personally I'd save youself a load of masking hastle and just paint the full rim while the old tyres off. If you do go for the split inner/outer painting option one trick I found tarting up the "S" alloys on my big saloon was a pile of cheap index cards, the ones about 2/3 the size of a postcard. Flexible and small enough they will happily tuck down between rim and tyre and stop overspray landing on the tyre. Much easier than trying to mask up the tyre with tape.

Generally the answer is an expensive ratchet crimping too. I say that as someone with has bought a cheaper one...then had to buy a more expensive one when the cheaper one turne dout to be a PoS.

Would it be any cheaper if they were doing a run of several tanks, rather than just a complete one-off? I'd certainly be interested in higher capacity, in tank EFi pump equiped Spitfire tank...

I'd go the other way actually, bolting the hard top down at the back, loosening the windscreen frame, and moving the frame to just/snugly fit the hard top. Do that and chances are when you wind the windows up they will be in the correct place.

Looks like a classic case of "slouching windscreen frame" - could be just miss-aligned windscreen frame, could be 50 years of people pulling themselves out of the car by the windscreen frame, could be a bad sill replacement job that let the body sag a bit. As the windscreen frame on a Mk3 is a 'bolt in' rather 'welded in' like the Mk IV/1500 hopefully it's just poorly assembled and you'll be able to finagle the frame mounting bolts to rotate the frame enough to let the side windows fit, and that will also likely resolve the hard top fit issue too.

And that's assuming you're actually looking/trying to match to the original paint. I know my Spitfire's currently on it's 4th colour since rolling off the production line - Sienna Brown > unknown White > Inca Yellow > custom Yellow.

Hey, don't blame this on the children, they aren't the ones parking the cars! It mummy/daddy parked farther away very few children would refuse to leave the school gate until they moved closer. This is all about mummy/daddy being too lazy to walk more than a few feet, often not even willing to get out their cars so all wanting to be in sight of the gate.

Out of interest which ones, especially calipers, did you go for? Put 4-pot Willwoods from Chris Witor on my big saloon and, well let's just say I really notice the difference jumping between the big bus and my Spitfire now in a way I didn't before! Plus it's an excuse for more shiny things...

Something like MegaJolt is the 'optimal' solution as the ECU is getting a signal every 5° of the 4-stroke cycle and directly from the crank. The flip side is it also involves the most work to fit (its not a bolt-on solution). Next best is one of the 123 Distributors. This is much more 'bolt-on', just replacing the distributor - but that means you have some accuracy losses in all the gears between the crank and distributor drive, plus far fewer index points in each 4-stroke cycle. I think your spark's still coming from a 1930's coil design rather than a 'modern' (1980's) one. And you're not really increasing power by swapping to mappable ignition (alone) but rather optimizing it. The same amount of fuel/air is going into the cylinder, you're just lighting the fire closer to the perfect time to get the most of the bang's energey converted into force pushing the piston down the bore, turning the crank. As a result the max BHP of a mapped car is no different to the max BHP of the same (correctly tuned) engine running on points/dizzy. The difference comes in the fact if you tune a points/dizzy to be perfect under one condition, be that max power/at idle/at motorway cruise, while it might be perfect there it's unlikely to be perfect anywhere else/under any different conditions. At the end of the day you're relying on a couple of weights and springs, with a little bit of vacuum advance to handle everything - and all of that takes time to respond to changes. With MegaJolt the ECUs looking at the load/RPM condition thousands of times a second so can fire the spark at the optimum time, every time, so you get as much of the energy out of each bang as you can.