Mjit
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Posts posted by Mjit
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On 30/03/2021 at 18:39, Pete Lewis said:
lift to just touch the piston then raise piston 2mm if it rises 50rpm its rich if nothing it just right if you get a 50rpm falter its lean
your are listening for a hint of change , blink and you will miss it , its a very touchy feely exercise
I was taught slight RPM rise but falling back to 'pre-lift' RPM in a couple of seconds for correct mixture.
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If you're really worried about the temperature gauge reading I'd buy a new temp. sender as a next step, then remove the old one and start testing both against a resistance meter/a jug of hot water.
The temp. sensors in our cars are very much indicative than precise - their resistance changes with temp, but drop the tips of 2 sensors in the same hot water and you'll usually get slightly different resistance values. And a different resistance in the temp. gauge circuit means a different reading on the needle. The internet suggests 100c is where the coolant temp should be ideally, so fit whichever reads slightly (higher/lower - I'm not sure off the top of my head) resistance dipped in boiling water and see where your needle sits then.
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On 30/03/2021 at 22:29, Mathew said:
Ok couple, well three questions.
1. Gearbox gear change a bit notchey cold but smooth warm?
2. Gear leaver a bit flappy but does not turn, ie loose feel?
3. On the Mot today i got to walk under to have a good look. The mount bar is bolted on in four places to the bodywork. Someone has put 3 washers between the mount and body on each bolt/stud. Looks like to lower the back of the gearbox, why?
Hopefully someone can enlighten me.
- In my experience, yes.
- Check you still have anti-rattle 'button' and spring fitted. Mine was missing and fitting one made a lot of difference. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID008679 - 112424 and 137988
As for the wires - what's the car's commission number?
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17 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
the lever should be >----/ if its >----\ the pins failed so it travels from 7 oclock to 5oclock
You also need to check the slave cylinder position and be prepared to get a bit creative these days it seems. On mine with a new cylinder just fitted "correctly" everything connected up OK...but with the slave piston basically at the end of the cylinder - which was never going to work. Think I've ended up with longer bolts and the cylinder padded rear-wards with 2 or 3 plain nuts. Puts the piston a reasonable way back down the boar so it actually has somewhere to go when you press the clutch pedal!
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54 minutes ago, Mathew said:
Chris witter. Sorted now with a washer against the slave cylinder. Bit of a blead. Gear selection better but needs a firm hand. With clutch pedal pressed down there is no creep and i can select any gear. I might be me used to rx8 gearbox in spitfire. Its ok for now but next stage when i remove the gearbox i will replace the clutch and check over the release mechanism.
Same place I got mine. Guess it's one of those "What slave cylinder do you have fitted, 50 years after the car was nailed together in Coventry".
Gear selection sounds about right for the big Triumph 'box - especially when compared to a Mazda one (and the RX8 gearchange is anything like as nice as the MX5 one). I find it to be...unwilling from cold but OK once there's a but of warmth in the oil. It's never what you'd call 'keen' though, much more a gentleman who walks, never runs than a heal/toe hooligan grabbing gears in the blink of an eye.
Oh and on the release arms I've yet to have one with a broken bolt...until I tried to remove it, at which point every single one has sheared 😒. Thankfully every single one has also been on a comically warn shaft, so out comes the angle grinder.
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Maybe just a later 1500 Spitfire than yours?
Has the wire for a seat belt warning light so if a 1500 Spitfire a late (post FH100021) car. What vintage is your car?
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12 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Very very close to that pulley! You're sure it won't move about as the car drives?
Looks normal for a PAS big saloon to me.
I'd say there's a bit of the parallax error lying on just how close it is - it's more than a feeler gauge but less than a finger job.
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Where did your braided pipe come from? I bought/fitted one last year and didn't have any issues with the connectors.
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18 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
Sure, all true, but still not completely useful if none of the selectable curves hits the points you want/need.
Nick
Exactly the reason I've got MegaJolt on my car!
Having been through a couple of rolling roads (pre-MJ) I finally found one who actually looked at what my car needed, rather than just tuning for 'best power' and leaving me needing 2,500RPM to pull away from stationary! He found my car wanted lots of static advance for low RPM, increasing through the mid range but critically then needing less at higher RPM - and you just can't do that with a mechanical dizzy. The old 123 wouldn't have helped with that but one of the more recent programmable ones might. MegaJolt certainly helped though as you just sit theere on the RR at X RPM/Y load and tap the advance up/down while watching the RR readout, pushing to peak power, then knocking back slightly (to avoid issues when all you can get is 95RON).
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12 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
123 started out as switchable rather than programmable. 16 curves to choose from, none of them right.... said the critics, and there was some truth in it.
I'm sure those same critics glossed over the fact that mechanical distrubutors probably can't even make the 16 curve mark - and even then wouldn't be able to hit those same points as quickly or consistently as the 123.
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Never mind the 2 hoses, what condition's your metal pipe in?
My experience is that, these days the metal pipe will be in worse condition than the rubber hoses, though you only really know when you take it apart (stainless replacements available).
The pipes seem to be cheaper from Chris Witor - but even at Rimmers £11 each, well how cheap did you think you could get? They are just short-ish 90 and 45 degree bends so you might be able to measure the diameter and find cheaper listed online as mark independent parts.
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Always worth measuring the front spring lengths/counting coils/damper spring pan->spring top distance too. Always possible to have mixed parts on a car after 40+years of previous owners 'careful maintenance'.
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Crank-triggered, full mappable ignition will be the best option - though also the most effort and cost. It takes all the wear and inherent inaccuracy of the distributor out of the equation and makes an amazing difference to your car - to the point John at JY Classics thought I'd swapped the engine in my Spitfire 1300->1500 the first time he drove it post swap. You can keep the mechanical tacho too if you want, just having the old dizzy sat there doing nothing more than turning the cable.
123, especially mappable is next best/next most expensive. Much easier to fit than MegaJolt, etc but less accurate than those systems.
Next up are the more expensive systems like Lumenition Optronic, where you counter a lot of distributor wear but are still stuck with mechanical control over the advance, which even at its best is "about right". Given the price of these I'd probably splash the extra bit of cash on a 123.
End of the line are the range of 'points replacement' systems, which basically swap seemingly constantly adjusting the points for replacing them when the die. Some complain they don't last very long - but if we say they are £20 that's probably 6 you can buy for the cost of a Lumenition/10 for a 123/20 for a Trigger-Wheels.com Triumph kit...
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4 hours ago, clive said:
Anything Ford will fit. And I think you can hang the filter vertical? so no worries about non-return valves etc. There are some nice small filters about too, the Cosworth one is neat.
I always go the the biggest one I can get, on the grounds neither having more oil or a greater filter surface area can be bad things.
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Think I always use Mondeo ones on my 2500S - just make sure you get the big one, not the small one.
Just popped out to look and of course Sod's Law that the part number's facing the road not up into the engine bag. Oh and of course I just HAD to throw out the small one I'd bought in errorjust before Christmas...having sat on the kitchen counter for 2+ years😩
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Just the now standard, rather boring 8min Saturday monring drive to the supermarket and back in the 2000. Just realised the Spitfire hasn't been out the garage since July!
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Cool. Might give some interesting LED headlight options for the big saloon, as 5.75" a common motorcycle size...
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Don't you lose some of the car dipping functionality using motorcycle headlights? I seem to remember reading that motorcycle headlights just dip in the vertical plane, while cars dip vertically and also towards the pavement side (i.e. more of an "L" shaped dip than a simple up/down).
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The issue with the Triumph system is that adding/removing shims will effect the whole suspension geometry, so it's a real fiddle to adjust everything correctly.
Say you add a shim to the rear of the left suspension tower that's going to (if my brains working correctly to picture in 3 dimension) rotate the suspension around the lower trunnion in a clockwise direction while also pushing the rearout laterally relative to the front. As a result you'll end up with increased toe in (which you can adjust back out with the track rod end), an increased camber angle, and an increased castor angle.
In a perfect world adding/removing shims in pairs should just change the camber angle...but the Triumph (or almost any other production car) suspension isn't perfect so that will also make smaller changes to castor and toe.
In short it's:
- Check.
- Adjust.
- Repeat over and over again until everything's as close to perfect as possible (or you get bored).
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If you end up keeping the current style fusebox rather than cutting off the old connectors/crimping on the new ones you can just release the old ones from the old fusebox and slot them into the new one.
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Maybe if you have one of those fugly convertable Range Rovers. In a Spitfire if someone caughs out the window of your average SUV they'll be spraying germs at just about the right height to clear the door glass and land right on the Spitfire's occupants
I did enjoy diligently following the Windermere ferry's Covid rules in my Spitfire back in the summer though. Drive on to ferry with the top down, clock the "Please close your windows" sign and wind up my driver's door window. To be extra safe I didn't even crack it open to pay the toll...just passed the money through the huge hole above my head.
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I'm reasonably sure I'm not making it up. I'll check the spare loom I have in a box in the garage when I get a chance
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Fitting the REAR loom on a Spitfire is easier than that (at least on a MkIV/1500).
The rear loom runs from D/S light cluster across to P/S cluster, then into the P/S rear wing, via the night dimming relay, to a connector behind the P/S rear wheel trim panel inside the cockpit. From that point forward you're technically in the separate main loom.
If you're actually replacing the whole loom then forward from the connector it's out through a hole in the bottom of the B post by the seat belt floor mounting and along the little channel in the floor pressing under the passenger seat, through a cut-out in the cross member just in front of the passenger seat and...somehow across the passenger footwell and up the side of the footwell ahead of the door to the fusebox (Though I can't for the life or me picture if it goes up the door edge of the footwell or the bulkhead one. I think it follows a wiggly diagonal channel and up at the bulkhead).
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I'm in the process of trying to update the fan in my Mk IV Spitfire - so far that's only gotten as far as buying a couple of cheap possibles off of eBay and deciding it's too cold in the garage (though a lot warmer today so might venture out this weekend). Will try to post something if I make any progress...
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Rear suspension lowering blocks
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
I think this photo might answer the "Why did Triumph use studs, not bolts?" question. If you think about it with the spring and mounting box fitted any fore/aft rock in the spring will get transferred to the mounting box and from there into the top ends of the studs, and down to the diff. casing, which could mean quite a torque being applied to the stud for even a small rock in the spring.