Mjit
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Posts posted by Mjit
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Does it make any difference if you double de-clutch, so clutch down/in to neutral/clutch up, clutch down/in to 3rd/clutch up?
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Would have expected almost any colour but rust red if there was threadlock.
Maybe a quick dip in a pool of salty water before fitting, to get a good strong rust lock (TM)?
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I have to say my Trakrite sits on the same dusty shelf as my Clickadjust. Buggered if I could get it to tell me anything but maybe I should give it another go some time.
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Popped out to look at mine and it doesn't look as loaded as that - but very hard to see with a full engine bay.
It could just be the angle you're looking at it from, or rather the only one I can look at mine from, which is basically just between carbs and inner wheel arch. From there it seems to be a small twist in the rubber coupling, with a much bigger angle change down at the lower/metal UJ.
I guess the other thing is where do you have the steering wheel set, and does raising/lowering it change the position of the shaft at the rubber coupling (don't know if it does - never had to look at that end of things)?
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48 minutes ago, VixenPPP said:
Regarding the idiot light, I know I have to tap in to the sol. wire, but what do I need ? , connectors, wire , bulb and holder ?
1) What do you need?
I'd more say "What do you have kicking around the garage/boot of the car?". To keep it cheap and if you don't have anything kicking about you could pop one of the reversing light bulbs+holder and hack that in to the circuit. Other than that a crimp on male+female bullet connectors, a bit of wire and whatever you need for the bulb/buzzer (a pair of crimp on female spade connectors if using the reversing bulb).2) How do I?
I'd expect the column switch to be wired using bullet connectors, so you need to:
a) Crimp a male bullet to the end of one piece of wire and a female to the one end of the other piece of wire.
b) Connect the other ends of those wires to your buzzer/bulb. If using the reversing bulb one goes to the standard connection post and, as the bulb (should) earth through the metal-bit-that-clips-it-in-to-the-rear-lamp-body connect the other wire to that (butchering the spade connector as necessary).
c) Split one of the O/D switch bullet connectors and reconnect via your new test wire.
d) Switch on the ignition, put the car in 3rd and flick the O/D switch. The circuit SHOULD open so the light come on.
e) Assuming that's good, it's road test time.unplug the switched one (which you can identify via a process of elemination if you don't have a multimeter - will come to that) and
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I'd go with "as much as you can".
Mine was close, but not touching when first fitted... At least it was close, but not touching parked up with the bonnet freshly closed. A quick trip up the motorway settled the bubber cones a little lower and revealed a good amount of flex in the bonnet panel at 70MPH.
I ended up dropping the rad. slightly and adding a pad of stick-on foam to the underside of the bonnet so any further contact had some padding, rather than hammer action. This was also the point I discovered that the d/s bonnet bracket is already at it's highest point...while the p/s one is near the bottom. Either some hinge box alignment or chassis twist issues in there somewhere
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Personally I'd drop it back down on the ground to test. Sure, it's a pain and 5min work taking it off the stands/putting it back up if issues persist - but a lot easier than repairing the front of the car and garage door/rear wall...
You also need to have the stands under the bottom of the vertical link, otherwise the drive shafts will normally be running in contact with the top of the chassis rails.
Could be worth temp. wiring a buzzer or bulb in to the o/d electrical circuit. Yes, annoying to have it buzzing/shining away the whole time you're in o/d but will tell you you have an electrical, rather than oil issue if it doesn't.
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Make sure you have LOTS of clearance between the radiator cap and the bonnet, a lesson I learnt the hard way ;(
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22 minutes ago, KevinR said:
i bc already know about the header and that the forum doesn’t look good on Internet Explorer - but who still uses IE when there are plenty of much better browsers out there.
IE11 is due to go out of support at the end of November and most of the industry has already dropped support requirements for IE11 to just "must work" (i.e. be function but not strictly follow design), so I wouldn't worry about it.
Legacy Edge isn't far behind it (EOS 9 March 2021) but usually renders in line with Quantum- and WebKit-based browsers, so less of a headache.
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...and the 'needs spacer' type will fit and work without the spacer. For a few hundred miles. Before the pump arm fractures, at night, on the A41, and falls in to the sump.
😢
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Aha! So: if you just wanted single speed, you wouldn't need one? I wondered if maybe it was a higher current rating than the original Herald version but then it's probably way more efficient. Might be worth experimenting.
Or as most PWMs seem to work off a potentiometer to control actual fan speed you should be able to replace that with wiring to the original 2 speed switch, with maybe some experimenting on inline resistors to get appropreate high/low speeds...
Upgrading the blower motor is on my Spitfire "post Duxford" fiddle list.
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4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
If you do MOTs it will have to work and would they accept the new location? It’s bad enough adjusting them let alone hacking the cables and mountings about.
Doug
And if you're MOT exempt but make a change that WOULDN'T pass an MOT I'd say you're NOT maintaining it in a "roadworth condition", so not eligible for the MOT exemption.
I'd also question if this would count as a "substantial change" or not, which could again invalidate the MOT exemption.
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Given the extra length/width of the overall gearbox unit you'd end up with and resulting chassis mods I can't help thinking fitting a modern 6 speed gearbox would be a similar cost/effort option with better results (like being able to buy a replacement gearbox for less than the cost of one of the O/D units if anything went wrong).
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Can't help on device recommendations, but would generally expect more money means more features (front and rear facing camera/higher quality video/longer video clip storage) but all should do the basic job of recording an accident to give you evidence it wasn't your fault.
For the wires that should be reasonably simple in one of our cars. Attach to windscreen in front of the rear view mirror, then tuck the cable under the windscreen rubber all the way around to a convienient point to exit to be plugged in.
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If memory serves the spin on conversions my by big saloons (same engine) both took Ford Mondeo oil filters, which come in short and long sizes. I've always gone for the long one as that extra bit of oil capacity isn't going to hurt anything.
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According to both Automec (who make the most readilly available DOT5 fluid) and if I remember the US Department Of Transportation (the "DOT" in DOT5, etc) DOT5 silicon fluid is 100% compatible with both 3 and 4 (though I have half a memory NOT 5.1?). As such you don't NEED to do anything to swap from one of the other but...
1. While you can just mix them together they don't combine in any way, so you end up with brake fluid that loses a little pedal feel, due to the silicon but still absorbs water and can strip your paint. Blowing through the lines will more or less solve that.
2. While you don't need to change your rubber seals they WILL fail at some point, regardless of the fluid you use. Unless you've only just done them/fitted new parts what better time to do them than when you've already drained all the old fluid from the system/before you fill with new? I mean you don't want to swap fluid, only to get the old "Read brake cylinder leaking" note on your next MOT certificate and start all over do you... -
So a couple of holes in the wood blocks I use on top my axel stands and support via the sub frame outer attachment bolts (so bolt heads in the hole so load spread across the large washers) and the diff came off quite easilly...even if I was rather nervous reaching under the cat at some of the noises/rush showers.
Of course the problem is with no diff. I can't drop the car back off the stands. Not looking forward to refitting the diff. from the other car at the far end of the swap...
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
its the lack of sills under the paint thats the concern
In my case this car became my parts car when my friendly MOT guy gave me a call and asked me to pop down as "I've left her up on the ramp so you can see"... Even then there were more gaps then connected metal between the floor and sills - and it's sat a couple of years since then through the "I can save it!" phase and in to the "Or I can buy a better one for a fraction of what fixing it will cost and use it for spares" phase. Hence why I'd rather not trust the weight of the car to them before crawling underneath and starting to man-handle the diff...
Oddly when jacked up it's the doors on the 'good' one that don't quite open/close smoothly while they remain perfect on the 'colander'!😩
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So finally gotten around to the job of stripping the diff. out of my terminally rusty parts big saloon and with the car on stands under the sub frame arms/drive shafts disconnected and free/4x diff. to nose piece bolts/2x rear mounting nuts and rubbers removed I can only get a bit of downwards action before a combination of the rear catching on the 2x long studs and the car body lifting up.
I've tried moving the stands to the outside ends of the sub frame arms which got a bit more drop (but still only about half way down the studs) before I was again lifting the body.
I'm not keen on putting the stands anywhere else (or at least not on going under it when it is - the sills and floor stopped being structural members many years ago!) but not sure what else do.
The seal between the diff. and nose piece doesn't seem to have broken yet - does that need to split so the diff. will wiggle back to reposition the studs in the holes as it comes down?
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19 hours ago, T3 California said:
Not sure how to check a torque with a flat blade screwdriver and can't get near my torque wrench at present. With all the other tools I don't trust.
I've had exactly the same experience with you, which gets me thinking...
Get an old, good-sized bolt and cut a screwdriver slot in the top. Bolt in to socket, socket on to digital torque wrench set to record peak. Put it all together with the ClickAdjust held in a vice and load the torque wrench until the ClickAdjust clicks, then check the recorded peak torque.
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17 hours ago, Black Cat said:
That's not JUST a half nut on each stud and cut flush is it, or did you do 2x half nuts/cut/replace half nuts with single, full-sized nyloc?
My method was a full nut for fit, with the 2 half nuts in the toolbox so the full nyloc can be removed, replaced by the 2 half nuts, and the 2 half nuts then locked together to remove the stud from the diff. If you've gone just half nut and flush I'm not sure what you're going to do the next time you need to remove the spring...
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14 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
30 front, 26 rear with 175/70s.
Fronts higher than rears?
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Having the wheel geometry checked/corrected is never going to do any harm, well other than to your wallet.
Worth seeking out recommendations of where to get it done though as having all the kit doesn't always mean the operator knows how to use it. Also worth picking up some chassis shims and taking them with you as most places won't be set up to knock some up these days.
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From experience I'd recommend a 3/4", rather than full 1" lowering block - especially if you have a sports exhaust fitted. Tried a 1" block and they are a literal pain in the ass - you just find yourself clentching your buttocks every time you see a speed hump/pothole/etc, waiting for that scraping noise 😥
Swapped to a 3/4" and only need to watch out for grounding when the boot's fully loaded. A much better match height-wise to you (I think TSSC Shop) upgrated front springs too.
Diesel
in Fuel System
Posted
Could be worse. I mean it's not like you had a friend in the car who you confessed to having miss-fueled your diesel car with petrol a few weeks previously...before pulling in to a pterol station to fill up and putting another tank of petrol in your diesel car.
I was the friend and no, I've not let the driver forget it