Mjit
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Posts posted by Mjit
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The Moss parts catalogue might help - https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/pdf/SPI2019.pdf
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OK, so Covid19 lockdown is making work for my idle hands, leaving me with a Spitfire dash to revaneer and a pair of dash eyeball vents from my parts 2000...
Do the dash eyball vents just blow cold air on the GT6? From what I can make out from online pics. the basic GT6 heater box is the same as the Spitfire, with the inlet in the middle, inside the fan, which blows air to each side, over the heater matrix, then either to the dash demister vents or footwells based on the position of the big side flaps. The difference seems to be that the GT6 also has a couple of outlets from the middle section of the heater box. These are after the fan but before the heater matrix, so will always blow cold air to the dash and footwell eyeball vents. Is that correct?
As I see it I have 2 options. Copy the GT6 setup, adding a couple of extra outlets to the heater box, or just "Y" the demister outlet, giving me the option of hot air to my dash eyeball vents (and countering the cold right hand when driving in the winter).
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So finally got all the parts delivered and everything back together so just one thing left to do - see if it works...
Fuel system primped using the hand primer on the fuel pump and in to the drivers seat I get with, considering the cars just been sat since October and I lent my battery charger to a friend a few weeks back, very low expectations. Turn the key and after about 3s she starts up! It moves forward in 1st and backwards in reverse but waiting for food supplies to drop before I have an excuse to drive further.
Clutch is still annoying me though. As bought the bite point was right on the floor. Well no gearbox issues now and a new slave cylinder but the natural position is still with the slave cylinder piston at the very end of its travel, so needing 3x plain nuts between the bell housing and the slave cylinder so it actually has somewhere to move when you press the pedal. Can't see any difference in the engine mounting and this is now the same gearbox/operating rod that worked fine on the old car.
Meh! It works
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You CAN remove the head without removing the manifolds but I'd question WHY you'd want to do it that way. Personally I'd just commit to removing the manifolds as you make access to everything a lot easier, the big lump of metal you need to lift off a lot lighter, access to 'persuade' the head to separate from the block better, and the big lump of metal you need to lift off a lot better balanced and easier to handle. I'd also imagine the machine shop will need to stip them off to do any machining work and will the machine shop take loads of photos to ensure they can put it back together correctly, or just give it back to you as a pile of bits and leave you trying to guess...?
I've recently removed/overhauled/refitted (almost) my gearbox and dropped the manfolds for that (snapped an exhaust downpipe stud) and it's reasonably straight forward. Mine's an HS4 car so:
- Split exhaust at manifold/downpipe connection - 3x 3/8" nuts.
- Remove air filters - 3x 5/16" bolts.
- Remove carbs from inlet manifold - 8x 5/16" nuts, 2x 3/8" bolts, throttle and choke cables. Keep a good hold on the carbs as you remove and all the linkages will stay together.
- Remove inlet manifold - 3x 5/16" nuts, (a few) 3/8" nuts (but not the end ones that just hold the exhaust manifold at this point). Lift the inlet manifold free.
- Remove exhaust manifold - either 2x or 4x 3/8" nuts (the end ones and the middle ones if they aren't shared with the inlet manifold - I forget right now). Lift away the exhaist manifold.
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If you fancy some trial-and-error tuning check out https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf
Tells you all about SU carbs/the different 'steps' in a SU needle profile and a testing procedure (P11). Basically tuning for idle then testing across the RPM/load range both with and without some choke.
A rolling road (with a good operator who understands SU carbs) will would be better, but also more expensive and possibly less fun if you enjoy tinkering on your own.
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Based on the latest club mag., yep MGF
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So looks like 'hardboard' heat shields are standard, suggesting it's probably asbestos...
Oh, and a note the the PO, those plain bolts with no locking wire... Yea, NOT suitable for use in the steering rubber coupling. One has rattled almost completely out! 😳
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Sounds to me like the lock barrel is on its last legs, but its 50 years old.
As Clive said it could just be dry and a little WD40 lubrication could keep it going - but remember sods law states it will finally die when you're out and jump in the car to drive HOME from a trip, not when you start it earlier in the day. As there isn't much driving to be done at the moment I'd recommend going ahead and replacing.
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Getting a second pair of hands not an option at the moment with social distancing!
Anyway, at least the locking wire arrived today so I can tick the last item of the gearbox overhaul list and get some refitting done on the long weekend.
No sign of the Witor order yet though (mainly exhaust gaskets, etc) which will stop completion, but manged to get the manifolds off during my lunch break so have a whole new set of jobs to do. The inlet manifold water outlet pipe has rusted through on the driver but doesn't leak...because the inlet pipe is completely bunged up with crap! Oh and the carb heat shields...are made of thin hardboard...
One step forward, at least two steps back.
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Yea, made up a length of wood with a cut-out for the jack pad on one side and a hole for the drain plug/two piles of packers screwed on at different positions to set things at the correct angle, then a couple of rachet straps to hold it in position.
Only problem is it's too tall to roll in/out under the car with the box on. Option one is 'reversal of removal', or strapping it to the wood, sliding it under the car, then trying to roll it up and on to the jack. Option two is to try juggling lifting the engine on its supporting bottle jack/the car on my proper jack to get the axle stands up a peg.
Think it will have to be option two, maybe with a wood block made up to stop the engine pressing on the bulkhead brake pipes added to the mix. Option one has me dropping a gearbox on my arm under the car written all over it
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For me:
3 looks too big and bulky for a petite car like a GT6.
4 is a bit angular for a curvery Mk1/2 GT6, though might work on a more angular Mk3.
1 looks good, having more of a flow to it, like the car body. Think it might need something in the middle section though to stop it looking like a wide mouthed Bass.
6 also looks good and, provided the lines flow like the rest of the body rather then being too sharp. Looks like you have a central 'pillar' in this one too, so no fish look.
5 slack-jawed window licker in the middle, but the corner lines flow really nicely. Or is it just the sketch making it look like a really big, really deep 'mouth'?
2 nice...on a Mk3. -
Given how much of a ball-ache, largely working blind with 18ft of socket extension bar getting some of the gearbox bellhousing bolt OUT was I'm really not looking forward to getting them back in! I'm really dreading trying to get those very top nuts to take the threads...
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I only tend to change the diff. oil when buying a 'new' car. It could be fresh. It could be the oil it left the factory with. It could be GL5. It could be 50% oil/50% sawdust. The fact it only took a cup of oil to top it up could be because it's only lost a cup in 40 years...or in the 40 miles between a pre-collection top-up and getting the car home.
I now KNOW it's fresh EP90/GL4 oil and is starting its life with me at the top of the filler plug.
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1
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I've got one of these - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cgg500-500cc-oil-suction-gun/
Certainly used it to suck the old oil out of a big saloon diff but have a feeling the tube might be a bit big and stiff for the smaller diffs. Should be bodgable though with some smaller diameter, flexible plastic tubing and some duct tape.
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Well that was, umm, 'fun'.
Ended up having to get the Dremel out and, really carefully, grind through the side of the seal's metal cup till it was paper thin and I could start working a penknife blade behind it. Eventually it started turning inside the nose piece and from there popped out just dandy with the seal puller.
Now just waiting for some locking wire to come through the post to complete the gearbox...but have an exhaust manifold swap to look forward to in the mean time. Dropping the exhaust to remove the gearbox on the parts car all three manifold/down pipe nuts came off just fine. Doing the same on the good one...two nuts and one snapped stud 😞
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Had TSSC ones on my Spitfire for a good number of years too. I find you need to flip the catch, then give it a little tug each side, but mainly to free the bonnet cone. After that easy to lift single-handed from either side.
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AAAAaaahhhh!!!!!
OK, anyone got any tips on removing the oil seal from the big saloon (Stag/TR6) gearbox nose extension?
I'm swapping gearboxes from my parts car to my driver with a rebuild on the way through and just stuck with the nose extension oil seal. The one in the spare gearbox shows no signs of moving anywhere. There's a bit of rust inside the clutch release bearing tube so maybe that's got to the seal and rusted in place, so I tried the one in the being-replaced gearbox... No rust inside the tube on that one but, like the first all I can do is mangle the flat-side lip. The circular section sat in the bore shows no signs of movement what so ever.
Is there a trick to removing these?
Oh and yes, of course the clutch release fork pin snapped on this one too.
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@yourkshire_spam - the secret, just Top Gear is to record it. You can then just fast-forward through the 'Tim sneaks in to part supplier who didn't know he was coming and pulls a fast one (despite the place being full of camera and production crew)', 'Lets play a practical joke on X', and 'Here's a fun was to give the car back' (or for Top Gear the 'Car in a reasonably priced car') segments and just watch the good bits.
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Can't say I'd ever describe my stainless bumpers are being thin.
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I've got a set of Harrington bumpers on my Mk IV and very happy with them.
Look:
Park next to a Spitfire with freshly rechromed bumpers and yes, you can see the difference (the chrome gives a much more mirror finish). Park next to one with slightly older chrome bumpers though and the SS ones look as good if not better.If you own your car to polish it, go chrome. If you own your car to drive it, so stainless.
Fit:
I needed quite a few washers to fill the gap between car and bumper mounting and to slightly elongate one of the body holes at the rear to get the holes to align BUT I wouldn;t like to say how much that's down to the bumper being wrong and how much is down to my car not being quite the same shape it was when it left the factory 47 years ago!Oh, and they use a really odd thread for the captive nuts in the bumper that didn't seem to match the supplied bag of bolts. Sorted with a trip to eBay.
I'm only in SE London so, once we're aloud to socialise again, you're welcome to see them.
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21 hours ago, Graham C said:
...and interesting a random nose bleed
Actually nose bleeds are turning out to be a not uncommon symptom, just much less common than/developing later than the most common feaver/dry cough ones so not widely listed (as That would just mean the window lickers of the world would go "I've got a feaver and cough but no nose bleed so it can't be Covid-19 and I'm OK to (go out and spread the virus)."
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Well that dash will be fun when you're driving with the top down and the sun behind you!
Think I'll stuck with a less reflective, satin finish.
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Are you using a burr or non-burr vaneer (standard Triumph is non-burr)? If the former then you do need to do some prep. work on the vaneer. If not sticking and clamping will usually sort out any minor wrinkles.
For adhesive - just bog standard PVA wood glue is fine.
I did the dash and door cappings in my 2000 last year, following the steps on https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-re-veneer-my-cars-wood-trim/ up to step 11. I then went with the "How to Rub to a Satin Finish" instructions on https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/rubbing-great-finish-satin-gloss/. Doing the Spitfire next, which with it's simple, flat surfaces will be a hell of a lot easier than the swooping shapes of the 2000!
Just read through Bordfunker's write-up and, other than using 'just wood' as opposed to 'glue backed, iron-on' vaneer the things I did differently were:
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Hole cutting.
I used a fresh scalpel blade to 'punch through' in the middle of the hole, then carefully cut across the grain to each edge. I then ran a series of cuts with the grain from that centre cut to the edge, creating a series of thin vaneer 'fingers'. These would then nicely fold, following the hole contour under gentle thumb pressure. Then with a small file used only stroking down through the hole from the vaneer side they would break off cleanly at the hole edge.
This worked well for both the large gauge holes and the smaller switch/glovebox lock/etc holes. The main thing was just focusing on taking theings slow and not trying to rush - probably the hardest part
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Stick dam you!
I also had a few points where the vaneer didn't stick, usually down to not being able to clamp the vaneer to the dash evenly while the glue cured due to the curves of the 2000 panels. Here I found an old scalpel blade came in handy, as you could get a little glue on it and then slide it in between the vaneer and dash to get new glue right inside, before reclamping the local areas.
I'd definetly recommend Rustins Plastic Coating (as Frost instructions and available on eBay). I found it actually works best when you really lather it on - it's self levelling to a degree and you're going to have to sand back loads anyway. If you do all the vaneering first, then the coating as a second, single step by the time you've done one coat over each piece it will be dry-enough to go back over with a second, so you can get a few layers on in each session.
Rustons DOES stink to high heaven, so either an outside or all windows open (during, and for some time after you stop) job. It also kills a brush after a couple of applications, as it starts to cure where it's been drawn up the brissles (so a couple of cheap-but-not-too-cheap brushes are the order of the day). On the other hand it will also last several days mixed up in a jam jar if covered with clingfilm when not in use.
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Hole cutting.
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Meh! No hole in my fork - and looks like drilling one through from the threaded side before fitting would be easy...but from the back after fitting a real bugger
Cooling hoses
in Cooling System
Posted
Not convinced by routing the heater pipe though the clutch pipe expansion loops...