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Everything posted by Mjit

  1. In approx. 1980? Sounds almost identical to the incident I was thinking of, although I remember it as going up Countisbury. I do remember lots of muttering, mumbling, and amusement from my dad and uncle who were both keen caravanners and would probably have stopped to help if we weren't walking up the hill as families, with myself and 2 others having the easy crushability of childhood.
  2. Naa, doesn't make sense in this case. The engine is supercharged, so as RPM increase so does charge temperature, so the amount of air you need to pass through the intercooler does too, so you actually want a fan that both runs all the time and that increases airflow with RPM.
  3. You need to try towing a caravan up Porlock/Lynton/Lynmouth. Won't go well for you but will provide great entertainment for everyone else.
  4. And that's the Mazda with it's post-2010 restoration, where drivers aren't permitted to use take it to its 1989/90 red line. Think there's something liek another 3,000RPM above the max they're permitted to use and those were the ones the old timers at Le Mans talk about as the ones that made your teeth vibrate. Sadly I only got to see it being pootled around in 2011.
  5. Practical Performance Car magazine contributor Charlie Broomfield's managed to get one into a Rover SD1. Last seen converting from timing chains to bespoke timing belt to both drive the turbo-converted-into-a-supercharger and run the cams backwards (for a Meteor/the same way as a Merlin) as that + a set or Merlin cams was way cheaper than getting custom ground 'supercharged Meteor' cans ground (and still having to sort the supercharger drive). A daunting thought for most of us but then most of us wouldn't just knock up their own engine dyno using a bus electromagnetic engine brake unit, or see an old fork lift and think "Yep, I can turn that in to a compact car lifter for the garage!
  6. I find my string-backs come in very handy on those crisp, clear, top-down winters days
  7. Was going to say - the Merlin was supercharged so we'd need some BHP numbers for a supercharged Triumph 6. A better comparison would be against the R-R Meteor would be a better option. In theory just a non-supercharged version of the Merlin for use in tanks - but actually rotates in the opposite direction to the Merlin for some bazzar reason! Power: 550–650 bhp (410–480 kW); Mark IVA: 600 bhp @ 2400 rpm Bore: 5.4 inches (140 mm) Stroke: 6.0 inches (150 mm) Capacity: 27.022 litres (1648.96 ci)
  8. Mjit

    Why is it ?

    Were the Israelite slaves used to build the pyramids though. I wasn't there but could see a case being made that helping build the pharaoh's tomb would be quite a high status task to be part of - the guy was still alive at the time so you can see the "Oh hello pharaoh, fancy seeing you here. No, I'm always here helping build a tomb fitting for such a great man as yourself. Oh, by the way, have you made a decission on who's going to get those lands you confiscated from Dave...?". And spending lots of time trying to curry favour with the helping honor the great pharaoh is a lot easier if you have a load of slaves to run your farm/business/etc.
  9. Mjit

    Why is it ?

    I doubt you would fine many black people getting offending be being called a 'nee-ZHER', the correct pronunceation of both the country and river who's name in the language of it's colonial invaders is spelt "Niger" but spelt "النيجر" in the most widely spoken non-colonial language of the country. They might think you have a speach impediment but are unlikely to think you are being racist (unless they are actually from Nigeria - seem to remember it being similar to calling a Kiwi and Ausie and visa versa, though maybe with some more fighting and killing in the past).
  10. I think the RR Merlin's a slightly unfair comparison. If we take a bog standard SEP engine like the Lycoming O-360, found in things like Piper PA-28 Cherokees and Cessna 172s, you're looking at a 5.125" (130 mm) bore/4.375" (111 mm) stroke. The other thing to remember is service intervals. For the Triumph 2.5 the first time (Triumph said) you really give the engine a poke is at the 12,000 mile service, and then just to check/adjust the valve clearences. For the Lycoming you're: checking fluids before every flight, giving it warm-up time while running checks and taxiing, then giving it a full power test before thinking about trying a take-off - and if you have any issues at any of those points you abort the flight and hand it over to the mechanics. Even if zero issues you're still looking at a full overhall every 2,000 hours - or about 25,000 miles where I live in London.
  11. You also need to remember what "full power" means for a (SEP) aircraft engine - pushing the trottle to the stop and watching the revs. rush up to...2,500 RPM. Not quite the same as jumping in your car, starting the engine and driving off holding the car at 6,000 RPM in first gear. And then once established in the climb, flaps up, and with a bit of height/reaction time below you in case anything goes wrong you trottle back anyway to more around 1,500 RPM - so not a lot more than someone gently warming up their car.
  12. Boot: Because, in a world full of gas struts on other boot lids, there a finite number of times you can bump the standard boot lid with a bag/elbow/shoulder while loading the boot and have the boot lid crack you on the back of the head. Bonnet: Because I've broken down on the motorway and, to put it mildly, the standard support gives zero confidence of keeping the bonnet attached to the car, let alone upright when an HGV passes you at 56MPH. Because you can open it single handed without worrying about the twisting you get when just supported at the hinges.
  13. Never understood why people mess around with the red wires - just reach in and pull the black one off, job done. The earth is just there to complete the relay's trigger circuit so no earth means the trigger circuit can't complete when you switch the lights on, so the dimming side of the relay never activates. Simples.
  14. From the engineering PoV two are better as you're evenly loading and supporting the bootlid - but there are no mountings on either the D/S of the boot lid or car body so the welder and rattle cans are probably going to have to come out. Next best would be a single, centrally mounted strut - but that clearly has some downsides WRT loading and unloading the boot. Last on the list comes a single, side strut - but you can add one as a bolt-on upgrade.
  15. Mjit

    Rocker Arm broken

    Unless you're on a tight budget I'd say you want to be replacing both the shaft and all the rockers, though you might be able to get away with inspecting and just replacing some of the rockers. There's some clear wear damage on the inner surface of the broken rocker, which will almost certainly mean matching wear/damage to the shaft where that rocker sits so it's probably scrap -> ~£18. The sort of damage looks, as other have said like a lack of lubrication. Now it COULD have just been a blocked supply to that 1 rocker, but if there's been crud building up int he oilways that got to that rocker to block it... Crud is rarely that targetted. Plus there's 40 years of general wear and tear in there too. The springs and spacers should be fine, so it's just rockers you should need -> £6/each, £72 for a set.
  16. Got one of the TSSC boot kits on my MkIV from back when they first came out. Never given me any issues and still working today. Only 'issue' I did have was that it put a slight side loading on the boot, so the lid didn't align after just swapping standard->hydraulic. Simple to sort with a bit of hinge fertling, just remember to fix and then carefully close checking the gaps first time rather than just slamming it closed!
  17. Only planned trip is the annual pilgramage to Le Mans for the 24hrs. Just a question if it will be in June or September, and with/without spectators...
  18. It's likewise amazing how much water remains in the engine block...when you've drained the radiator but forgotten to remove the block drain plug before removing the head...😞
  19. Yep, got that (oil soaked) t-shirt too. Always turn your head away when removing sump plugs or other 'oil retaining' items too - I've yet to taste a motor oil that's splashed on to my face and into my mouth that I liked the taste of.🤢
  20. I've re-done the wood in both my 2000 and Spitfire and would say: I've yet to cleanly remove the lacquer from ANY piece of Triumph wood. Either one bit of vaneer will be stuck better to the lacquer than the base wood, so come off, or I had to spend so long in an area with the heat gun to get one bit of lacquer to soften than a neighbouring bit of vaneer burns slights, or trying to sand through one spot of lacquer you realise you've also sanded through a neighbouring piece of vaneer too But re-vaneering isn't actually too hard - especially for flat pieces (the 2000 curved drivers dash panel is a real PITA and I found worse than the door cappings). If you need to keep the car on the road buy a second hand set of wood off eBay and either revaneer that or fit that while you revaneer yours. Follow https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-re-veneer-my-cars-wood-trim/ After a couple of light coats to seal the surface really pile on the Rustins Plastic Coating - you're not trying to bush on the smooth finish, but get a good thick layer on and then sand back to a flat smooth one. While wood's a natural material, so different pieces are different colours don't worry too much if it comes out too light - the wood in my 2000 has really mellowed after 12 months of UV. The Spitfire's still lighter than I'd like but that's spent more time than usual in the garage vs out in the sun since I reveneered it over the last winter, due to Covid. If you're going to do the door cappings as well but enough wood for the lot, with spare in one go, as consecutive sheets of the same cut of wood. The new wood may not end up the same colour as the original (+ its 50 years of 'maturing') but at least all the wood will be the same colour (unlike my 2000 where I DIDN'T do this - but still better than it was, so happy). Oh, and only go for a burr finish if you REALLY want one. 'Non-burr' vaneers are both much easier to work with (no flattening required) and you get a lot more choice in which area of the vaneer to use for each panel (with burr vaneers things like the glovebox lid MUST be done using the piece of vaneer cut out from the glovebox hole in the surrounding panel or the miss-match in the complex pattern really stands out - with non-burr you can maybe have an ugly but of the vaneer in the hole, then cover the lid with a different part of the same sheet and you can't tell when it's all done and fitted).
  21. Humm, does it? Does a spark not travel (near enough) at the speed of light, like lightening? I'd accept it might take longer to initiate the spark, as you need to build up enough potential to actually jump the insulating air gap and a bigger gap means more potential required to reach the tipping point, but once you've hit that tipping point I thought the spark itself would travel as the speed of light. And the reason moden cars/uprated classic can run a bigger spark is because they have more powerful coild/coil packs that can generate the necessary potential in the available time.
  22. Mjit

    Dash Camera

    Just a reminder to people, it took a good 30 years for someone to produce a car with 3 foot pedals on the floor, in the order clutch/brake/gas, and langer than that for it to become the standard - and that's with something where the basic technology has hardly changed since the first internal combustion engined car was built, while computers have advanced massively. I mean, do you REALLY want to go back to doing everything from a command line interface and loading programmes from puntched cards? Oh, and it's VERY rare for the "techy's" to actually change the user interface. That's the domain of the crayon scribblers in the design and user experience teams. The techy's just implement the new designs, while wondering why we can't just go back to command line interfaces for everything. And are cars as 'normal' as you first think? I mean go on holiday and hire a car and you can't guarantee if hitting the left stalk will indicate your planned turn or switch on the windscreen wipers (or re-tune the radio/change the cruise control if you hit the 'wrong' stalk on the left of the wheel)... This is the reason my way to say a friendly "Hi" to fellow Triumph owners is as likely to be a single wipe of my windscreen as a flash of my headlights 😶
  23. Mjit


    Can still remember giving a friend a lift in my Spitifre and getting paranoid about this new, hollow, rythmic, intermittent thumping noise that had suddenly started. Asked my friend if he could hear it too which got the reply of "What, that one" as it suddenly started again. "Yes!" I reply. "That's me tapping my foot to the music on the radio, you idiot.".
  24. Sitting high is just down to the spring being a) Needing to settle. b) Being new but compared to some tired, sagging 40+ year old one that's technically been sitting too low. Lowering blocks are normally a personal choice and down to people wanting their cars to sit lower/have more static negative rear camber than standard, rather than being to counter new springs being too high.
  25. I'm sorry I seem to have missed a bit of medical news there. Could you give details of the types of brain tumour/heart attack/stroke/incurable cancer that are caused by not being able to buying bathroom sealent? Going for a walk in the open air (and maintaining good social distancing) will help avoid heart attacks and strokes, and has some broad links to avoiding cancer - an hour's daily exercise is permitted and encorraged. If you have any concerns about having either a brain tumour or cancer then you should contact your GP and attend the practice/hospital as directed - both of which are classified as essential travel/interactions.
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