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GrahamB

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Winsley, Bradford on Avon, Wiltshire
  • Cars Owned
    Spitfire 1500, built 1975

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  1. If the coil is too hot to to touch, this is indicative of a coil with a low resistance. If it is 1.5 ohms it must be connected to the ignition switch via the white/pink resistance wire so that it only receives 6 volts during normal running. Has this wire been bypassed to obtain 12 volts for the electronic ignition? If so, then you need a 3 ohm coil. Alternatively, has the feed from the starter solenoid been misconnected so that it supplies 12 volts continuously rather than only when the starter motor is actuated? As for the coil, the extra 0.7 ohms may just be due to the resistance of the test leads. If it is 2.2 ohms it will pass less current and run cooler, and for the same inductance, provide less energy to the ignition system. But the extra resistance could be due to more turns on the primary giving a higher inductance and more energy but at the expense of a longer rise time. After saying all that, I think that the replacement coil will work fine provided it is only being supplied with 6 volts via the resistance wire.
  2. I was told that the manufacturer decided to develop a water dispersant. The first formulation was not upto expectation so they re-formulated and made a second batch. This continued until they were finally satisfied with the formula for the dispersant, on the 40th variation. It was then marketed as WD40. So WD1 to WD39 never went into production.
  3. GrahamB

    Flat EV

    I was attending a conference at University of Bath. During the lunch break, I went for a walk and noticed some strange small vehicles. They were experimental solar powered trolleys and I was asked if I would like a drive. Of course the answer was yes and I trundled slowly along the pathway. Then I passed a tree and the vehicle stopped, the shadow was sufficient to cut the electric power. There used to be a race for solar powered vehicles across the Australian outback, plenty of sun and no trees!
  4. I assisted a friend rebuild a Minor 1000 A series engine. In the bottom of the sump was a locking tab which fits on the main bearing cap and then folds over to lock the bolts. All were in place on the bearing caps and securely in place. The locking tab was perfectly flat so had never been bent. Our guess is that when the engine was originally assembled in the BMC factory, some employee had dropped the tab into the engine, could not see where it had gone so took another one from the tray and continued with the build. On turning the engine the correct way up, the tab fell into the sump and had resided there from when the car rolled off the production line.
  5. I replaced the 16ACR on my Spitfire with an uprated 60 amp alternator from Canley Classics. The replacement looked the same as the original and fitted without any adjustments or modifications. This was some years ago and it has performed without any issues. I realise mine in a 4 cylinder and not a 6 but if your original is a 15ACR, I can see no reason why the uprated alternator would fit a 2000 but you may wish to wait until someone confirms that they are interchangeable. Canley Classics price is £54.
  6. Yes, I was forgetting that the initial field supply would be removed if the alternator plug was disconnected.
  7. I would not recommend running with the alternator unplugged as voltage spikes, normally dampened by the battery, could damage the electronics within the alternator. The alternator produces A/C which is not completely smoothed by the diodes so you will get a ripple on top of the D/C voltage. I have not tried to measure it myself but 0.5V A/C seems quire reasonable. You will only measure any A/C voltage with the engine running as it is produced by the alternator. The dashboard mounted voltmeter in my car, which is not very sensitive, is wired directly to the battery via a relay. It reads 12v with the ignition switched on rising to 14V as soon as the engine starts. I replaced the previous alternator as the voltage only registered 11V with the engine running and the lights on. I fitted a 60 amp Lucas style alternator purchased from Canley Classics. I do not know if they still sell them.
  8. Yes you are correct. The alternator produces an alternating current which passes through a diode pack to supply a direct current to the battery. In the Lucas alternators and others, the diode pack is in the back of the device immediately under the black plastic cover. I once had a Mk1 Fiesta to which I fitted a 4 branch exhaust which came close to the read of the alternator and the extra heat caused the diodes to fail on more than one occasion. Fortunately you could buy just the diode pack in order to repair the alternator.
  9. I have the same issue with my 1975 Spitfire 1500 so perhaps a common occurrence. I just wind the window up until the glass just touches the screen frame then down about 2 mm. When I try to make adjustments to fittings, I usually make things worse but I will be interested if you find a solution.
  10. I do not understand your system. If the battery is capable of starting the engine, if you measure the voltage on the + battery terminal with the engine stopped you should get a steady 12 V or slightly more. This will drop to about 9 V as you crank the engine and rise to about 14 V with the engine running and the alternator operating. If the voltage does not rise above 12 V, the alternator is not functioning. As mentioned previously, the alternator has to be energised by a 12 V supply, via the dashboard ignition light which should be a standard filament bulb. The alternator should not be run without being connected to the battery. With the engine running, there should be a steady 12 V plus to the input to the ballast resistor. As suggested by Pete, if the ballast resistor is fed via the white/pink resistance wire ( K on the wiring diagram indicates pinK), you will get a fluctuating voltage, and hence unsteady reading, at the input to the resistor and very little current through the coil resulting in a weak spark
  11. I concluded that the problem was caused by Triumph just fitting an alternator in place of the earlier dynamo while keeping everything else the same as they already had the bits in stock. I am using multi-electrode spark plugs with a claimed life of 25000 miles and do not need to remove No.1 plug very often so just live with the design issue.
  12. The voltage on a ballasted coil will be 12 V with the ignition unit in the off state (equivalent to points open) falling to 6 V with the unit in the on state (points closed). With the engine running, a digital volt meter will not be able to follow the rapidly changing voltage and will display apparently random numbers. With the ignition on but the engine not running you might be able to get sensible readings by slowly turning the engine over by hand; you certainly can do this with points. I have run a separate 12 volt supply from the ignition switch to the electronics to ensure that the unit always gets a stable voltage.
  13. From the photo it looks like there is a separate earth connection between the two top prongs. I would guess that the power has to be connected to the single bulb connection and the bulb earths through its case to the holder which then needs a separate wire to earth.
  14. I have an uprated Lucas type alternator similar to the original and yes, to remove No.1 plug I have to loosen the top adjustment arm, remove the belt and then rotate the alternator out of the way. The fan belt was bought as the correct item for a 1500. The ignition light goes out as soon as the engine starts at around 1000rpm
  15. Try contacting Geoff to see when they are planning the next meeting.
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