Graham Ness

Thanks to Colin for the link to the TriumphExperience site regarding repro windscreen capping.. an interesting thread there. But as Pete first suggested, and as I had pretty much concluded, the solution seems to be to use the holes as defined in the new capping and carefully drill new holes in the windscreen frame. Thanks all.

I have decided to replace the aged aluminium windscreen capping on my Mk3 Spitfire. I've drilled out the old pop rivets and removed the old capping, which was also securely fixed in place by silicone sealant. On lining up the new capping, I see the rivet holes between the capping and the windscreen frame don't line up. Is this usual? Do I simply drill new holes in the windscreen frame and proceed? Someone must have already asked this question somewhere on the forum, but I can't find it. The capping must have been replaced at some time on the past - Triumph wouldn't have used silicone sealant to fit the capping, but the frame only bears a single set of holes to mount the capping. I just want to check before proceeding to drill additional holes in the windscreen frame. Thanks, Graham

Thanks for the response, Colin. The dash top cover is several mm thick, so will need to be trimmed rather than folded. But, having slept on the issue I think I'll try to go with your approach.. tighten down the windscreen frame onto the seal, cut the new dash top to fit behind the frame and seal and secure it in place with the three bolts and cover/attachment plates (611669 - Spitfire uses these, I don't think GT6 does) that secure the back of the screen frame and seal. Clearly the rubber seal is meant to do just that (seal), but did you use any sealant between the scuttle and the seal, and between the seal and the windscreen frame? I had planned to run some DumDum (Butyl) tape sealant between each.. but am I just being neurotic about water ingress at that point? Hopefully a job for this weekend. Thanks again for any and all input.

I am about to refit the windscreen frame back onto my Spitfire Mk3 and plan to replace the damaged dash top cover, which was poorly fitted by someone in the past. The original dash top is still in place, but in an awful state. I will be leaving that where it is. Should the front edge of the new dash top cover be trimmed to sit against the back of the windscreen frame to scuttle seal, or should the new dash top cover sit under the seal? I have some DumDum sealing tape which I plan to place under the seal/on the scuttle top to try and make it all water-tight. Any wisdom from others who must have already done this would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Colin, Points taken.. and thanks for the advice. Cheers, Graham

Hi Colin, that would be wonderful, thanks very much. Given the relatively small amount I need, a whole pack does seem a bit excessive - since I'll probably not need any ever again.. I'll PM you a postal address. Thanks again. Graham

Thanks, as always, to all for your valued inputs. Graham

I've been completing repairs to the dash/scuttle top on my Spitfire Mk3 and am shortly to refit the windscreen frame. A previous owner had used some form of silicone sealant between the scuttle top and the frame seal - which had trapped water and contributed to rusting. What is the general advice? I am fitting a new frame to scuttle top seal, but should some additional form of sealant be used between the scuttle top and the frame, or should it be fitted dry? Similarly between the seal and the windscreen frame itself. Any wisdom born of experience on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Graham

If intermittent horn, then check that the 'earth strap' wire is in place on the steering column 'universal joint'. Mine played up for a while until I realised this was missing. Made up a new one, and problem solved. It basically makes a good electrical connection between the two parts of the steering column. Graham

Or is the relative strength of the bolts a greater consideration than rust resistance here?

a slight variation on my original thread.. Ignoring concerns about originality for the moment, has anyone fixed their Spitfire windscreen frame with stainless dome nuts above the dash (instead of the standard chrome headed bolts) screwed into a stainless stud with suitable washers and nut below the scuttle/dash? IMHO the stainless dome nuts are slightly better looking than some of the chrome bolts available - and will be more rust resistant.. Thoughts?

The windscreen frame is off my Spitfire for some dash-top/scuttle repairs. The previous owner has at some time used a mish mash of bolts and washers to re-secure the frame to the car and I thought I'd try to do the job properly on reassembly. Looking at various guides and parts books I see (starting from the top) a chrome headed bolt, a plain washer, a cover/attachment plate, the screen frame, the scuttle, a medium sized washer (505627), a spring washer, and finally a nut. I'm OK on all of this - except the medium sized washer (505627). What is so magical about this item that it is 'no longer available' from any of the suppliers I've researched? There is a lip underneath the scuttle that will preclude using a washer that is too big, but too small a washer may result in washer and nut starting to pull through the scuttle - which is what was happening when I dismantled it all. Does anyone have a sample 505627 that they can measure for me? It is simply the biggest washer that you can fit under the scuttle that does not foul the lip? Seems like a dumb question, but I thought someone may have some wisdom on this. Thanks. Graham

Thanks for the feedback. I am familiar with some of uPol's products, but had not come across Fibral. I shall do some reading-up now and invest accordingly. Yes, it may not be the most ideal solution for the purist, but since this car is already a series of compromises and would never be entered for a concours competition, I won't lose too much sleep. Thanks again.

Wanting to take advantage of the lockdown and the good weather, I decided to attack some of the (hopefully) superficial rust on my Spitfire Mk3. While I knew the sills needed some attention along the seams, I decided to turn first attention to the dashboard top/scuttle where the windscreen frame rests on the scuttle. Rust was clearly bubbling out from under the windscreen frame seal. Having removed the windscreen frame it became obvious that a previous repair has included the addition of copious amounts of silicon sealant at the rear edge of the seal - as opposed to the front edge.. where it might have at least impeded the ingress of some water. I've cleared away the sealant and there is evidence of some (fairly professionally applied) filler in the scuttle already from an earlier repair. However, creeping rust has eaten into the scuttle and created a few small (<5mm) holes in the metal. So, how acceptable to clean up the rust, slightly enlarge the holes to remove some more of the rust, apply rust treatment, fill and repaint? I've already applies Kurust to the affected areas before I proceed further. The holes are just to the door-side of the left hand screen wiper shaft and normally concealed by the windscreen frame seal, and access underneath is somewhat limited - even with the glove box removed. Should I consider applying some fibre-glass support under the scuttle before starting on filling above. I'd quite like to avoid a 'minor' body repair becoming a major headache. I thought that there may already be a thread on this somewhere, but couldn't find one. Was I just looking in the wrong place? Thanks for any constructive feedback that anyone might have, I am sure this must be a common problem. Maybe I need to turn my attention to the sills for now and see what nightmare awaits me there. Thanks.. Graham

The original reason for removing the pistons from the carbs was to check the fuel levels in the main jets. Having almost got over the needle differences.. I now noticed that the fuel level in the rear carb appeared much (much) lower in the jet. Opening up the rear float chamber.. I discovered it was empty. If I'd simply hit the carb with a spanner to make sure the float valve wasn't stuck (as it was), then I would probably have not noticed the needle length differences. I've fitted the fixed needle pistons from my other carb set and checked the rear carb has some fuel and - hey presto - an engine that runs on all four cylinders.. albeit a bit lumpily. Time to set up the carbs a bit and re-check the timing with a strobe light. I remain intrigued by the difference between those two needles. Incidentally, both needles sit fully in their respective black collars, but the longer thin part of the collar on the longer needle protrudes from the bottom of the black collar. Give than one is bent, I may purchase a new pair, check they're the same and fit them anyway. Thanks again, Graham