coops7

Thanks for speedy replies, appreciated, there is no engine number on block as I said it came from god knows where many years ago into the hands of a previous owner who then installed it in the car. When I said checked the domed pistons to be correct I meant the info given by the guy I bought car off was correct, which I checked with a flashlight down the plug hole. If that's all there is to it, then I shall continue as per your advice guys, cheers.

Hi All The gist of this question is, that my mkll gt6 has a bit of a 'Frankenstien' under the bonnet. To cut a long story short, when I bought it the previous owner told me that the block was not the original but had possibly come from a Vitesse, though he wasn't sure as it came with the car, from the previous owner to him. There is no engine no. to go by, so I cannot confirm the model. The car came with all receipts to show that it has been brought up to gt6 spec and I have no reason to doubt this after three years of ownership. The engine does have domed pistons( which he informed me of and I have since checked to be correct) but when I checked the timing it was quite a bit out (can't remember how much but retarded). I have since fitted electronic ignition to it's Lucas d22 dizzy, which I know is also not the original Delco but he felt was a better dizzy. My question is, what degree of timing should I be applying? I believe the mkll was set at 10 deg btdc, but with the domed pistons should I use this or the mklll setting, which I think is about 12 deg, or have I got my facts wrong altogether? Thanks in advance Jeff

If they produce the overriders as part of a complete set, then I would think if you contact them they might well will supply a pair on their own on request. After all, if your happy with the overriders your likely to go back for the rest eventually.

That's right Pete and the wires to the interior lights are all correct. Thanks to all for the advice/help, really appreciated. Jeff

Update The white/red wire does work for the second the key is turned, that's what threw me. Looking at the wiring under the dash, there are a lot of bullet connectors, I think that those purple wires must connect up somewhere with the correctly coloured wires, it's all a bit Heath Robinson down there but all works and looks safe. All the other wires as I said seem to be the correct colours, it just seems to be the wrong ignition barrel??? Going from what you said Richard then I think it's the purple wires (masquerading as white), that I need? Also this spell check does not like the English version of the word coloured. The guy I bought the car off 3 years ago was well into his Triumphs, he also owned a Stag and mkl 2000, so I wonder if its off another model? Thanks Jeff

Hi Richard This is really strange, my ignition switch has about 6 take offs 3 are being used by auxiliaries, what was the radio/switch for screen washer/ 12v aux socket the others are as described above, no white wires coming off barrel but the white wires are where they should be elsewhere on the car and everything is working when i use a circuit tester on the red/white wire it does not light up??? but is attached to the solenoid, is it only live for the second the key is turned to start the car? As I say everything seems to work so I don't want to mess too much with it but it is obviously not the correct switch for the car. jeff

Well I have gone for it and ordered the full set from Harringtons, should take about 3 weeks. Have read a lot of reviews on other forums from all over the world and all seem to be pleased with them. They can't look any worse than what I already have and at least they will never rust.

Sorry to bother you guys again but just been under dash and there is no white wire coming off ignition barrel. There is a brown which is perm live( I take it thet its supply from solenoid) There is a red/white which does not seem to do anything (not live with key in any position or engine started) There is one connector with two wires, 1) purple 2)purple/yellow...... these go live when ignition switch turned on. So just to be sure, is it the connector with the two purple wires I should be looking at? Thanks in advance Jeff

Hi Aidan Thanks already have, it was just the voltmeter I was unsure about. Huge amount of work replacing the whole interior in a couple of weeks, including doors, happy days

Hi Thanks for the replies and the link, I had heard that the re-chroming was an expensive exercise. The price on the link for the full kit is very close to the price of all the parts if bought seperately from paddocks/rimmers etc, so I think I may well hammer the credit card and take your advice. Thanks again

Hi Thanks for the replies Richard, S.Leah and Pete appreciated, so white wire from ignition barrel activated when key turned will do it, thanks again.

In my experience Paddocks websit does this sometimes at weekends, for some reason. Happened to me 3 times in the past.

Hi All Have been a member of TSSC for a couple of years now but am new to the forums. I own a 1969 mkll GT6, signal red in colour and am in the process of some, mostly cosmetic, improvements. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on the quality of replacement bumpers for sale out there? For now I have removed the front bumper and am running with just overriders for now but I would like to do something about the rear bumpers. The bumpers for sale seem quite pricey and I have heard the metal may be a bit thin and prone to rusting quite rapidly, has anybody any experience of this? I think mine should be fine to re-chrome as they are not bent, though one of them has a small split in the chrome over the bracket(not sure if the split goes through though) but have also heard that re-chroming can be more expensive than replacing, any experience? Another problem with this option is I live on the Wirral and do not know of anywhere that does this, if I am going to re-chrome I would like to use somewhere that was recommended if possible. All advice appreciated thanks.

Hi All I am going to be fitting a smiths voltmeter to my GT6 mkll along with a clock, in place of the radio. My question is, which wire should I take the live for the voltmeter from, to ensure it does its job properly? Any advice appreciated, thanks.