StevieB

I need to replace my hazard light unit on my GT6 MK3. Canley Classics have supplied a unit with two terminals, but the Workshop Manual shows three connections. On closer inspection the missing connection is the one that drives the dashboard light, so I guess this is not such a big deal. So, now I need to change it. Struggling to find it though! I have a little round can, but cannot find something similar. Can anyone give me a clue as to where it might be? Cheers Steve

All good stuff gents, your comments are appreciated. Otherwise, is my procedure sound and good to follow? Steve

Looks like I might be changing the rather tired looking, but functional, front suspension lower wishbone bushes on my GT6. Now I am a bit of novice / numpty at this kind of thing, so always plan carefully. Looking at this, and then thinking about it, I think this is fairly straight-forward. This is what I think is the best way to do this; 1) Raise vehicle onto stands and remove wheels. 2) Support hub on a trolley jack. 3) Remove existing wishbone bolts, and allow wishbone to drop down (may need some persuasion) 4) Remove old bushes and replace with nice new Blue Poly bushes. 5) Refit Simples???? Or have I missed something obvious. Polite comments and suggestions welcome ;-) Steve

Aaaaaah, so the threaded fitting should come out. I kind of thought that it should. I tried (a little) to see if it would come out, I guess it is is held form behind somehow. Time for a tinker. Ta

Sorry, this follows on from this very old post... http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/44-fitting-gt6-internal-door-release/ which is also mine! (Donut!)

I have replaced the interior door handle and lock mechanism, which was quite easy, because it was broken. Now I have come to refit it I cannot see how to re-connect the door lock linkage at the lock end. It looks to me as if the linkage must connect to the handle end first, but then I have a thread at the other end. That makes me think I should have done that end first. But if I do that, then I cannot see how to connect the other end (and I have broken the plastic knob once already. See the picture below for my threaded rod quandry Can anyone enlighten me as to the obvious and easy way to do this please. Thanks Steve

Finally, finally, finally got the GT6 MOT'd today,and she sailed through. No advisories or any comments at all. Thanks to everyone who helped with my various brake related questions. The new pads (Mintex) work a treat, and are noticeably a lot better than the old ones. Pedal was a little soft, so I bled them again, now it feels a lot better. Not rock hard, but way better than on my wife's Panda! I decided to stick with DOT4, as I would not be touching the rear brakes, and the clutch is still on DOT4. All done now, and a happy chappy. Thanks again

Finally, finally, finally got the GT6 MOT'd today,and she sailed through. No advisories or any comments at all. Thanks to everyone who helped with y various brake related questions. The new pads (Mintex) work a treat, and are noticeably a lot better than the old ones. Pedal was a little soft, so I bled them again, now it feels a lot better. Not rock hard, but way better than on my wife's Panda! Thanks again

Per chance I was heading into the owners club today, and asked Garth this very question. The answer is simply that the shims for the Type 16 Calipers are just as I have. Simple steel shims, and there is no right or wrong way to fit them. Thanks again for your advice.

Pete, thanks again for your help. Pictures of the shim (both sides of the same shim) are here; http://tssc.invisionzone.com/uploads/gallery/album_11/tn_gallery_107_11_81908.jpg http://tssc.invisionzone.com/uploads/gallery/album_11/tn_gallery_107_11_127639.jpg I bought them from the Club Shop, so I kind of expect them to be right. Not only that, they look the same as the ones I took out, nothing obvious, at least not to my eye. Steve Images look a bit small when you click on the link, but I think they will be clear enough.

And therein lies the definitive answer. As you might have gathered from above I had formed an opinion in my own mind after Clive's response, based on practicality alone. The article you linked too is excellent, it could not be clearer. I shall be sticking with DOT 4, and re-commissioning the brakes tomorrow. :-) I am looking forward to some serious braking improvements, new calipers (not seized), Mintex pads, and fresh brake fluid - god knows how old the stuff I have just taken out was, but it looks rank). Thanks again Pete. Your contribution to this forum is invaluable and hugely appreciated by newbies / numpties like me. Steve

Thanks Pete for your answer. There is nothing to indicate a right and wrong way at all on the shims, so I guess I just fit them (well I have now, but not final fit. I note your point about Copper Slip, I think I will do that tomorrow when I finish the job off. Ta Steve

Thanks Clive. I was starting to err towards putting DOT 4 back in. Mostly because there will be no problems, and I don't need to rip the whole system apart. You also make a good point, DOT 4 is readily available, so in an emergency no problemo :-) I think, unless someone can sway me the other way I shall be refilling with DOT 4, and bleeding the brakes tomorrow. (Once I have got the last pad in -there is always one stubborn one isn;t there!)

I have read in a number of places about there being a marking for the direction of rotation for the brake shims to be fitted to my GT6 MK3. I have some brand new ones to fit, which I bought from the owners club. They look to be completely flat, unmarked and symmetrical. I cannot see anything to say which way round they should be fitted, apart from the obvious holes where the retaining pins go. Which means the only possiblity is that one face is supposed to go against the pad, and the other against the piston. But as I say both sides look identical!. I am probably, no definitely a bit ignorant here, as I have never done this before. So, the only thing I can think of is that this might apply when changing the pads and keeping the old shims. In which case do I need to add my own mark to the shim when fitting. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I know this is a much discussed topic, but I have seen arguments one way, and just as many the other way. I thought I would just ask anyway; I have at long last got round to start changing the front calipers on my GT6 (one of the pistons on one caliper has seized, so am using this opportunity to change both calipers, and fit Mintex Pads). I have all the parts so am about to start stripping down. I will be changing Calipers only, as far as the brake fluid is concerned. Now, I am pretty certain that the system is currently using DOT4 brake fluid at the moment. Now I know ideally you should strip it all out, and change all the seals before changing to Silicone (DOT5) but as I said earlier i have heard arguments both ways. What is the real thinking about just putting DOT5 in when I am ready to refill the system?

Thanks for your reply, and photo. Sorry for my late response, but I have been away. The clips you show are like the ones for the door release. BUT, my lock rod is threaded at the door mechanism end. It threads into a 'pin' which is where the red part of your clip would locate. I am thinking now, that what I have is a repair of old, in the absence of said clips. I think then, I need to remove the rod (unscrew it), and replace the connection with clips like you have. Where did you get them from? (Bit of a shame, cos I broke the plastic lock 'knob' on the handle trying to refit it, I shall have to retrieve the one from the original, and fit that. One more little job to do. :-) )

I have a new door release (internal) for my GT6 Mk3, and have successfully removed the old broken one. I have a replacement one all refurdb'ed and ready to go. Problem is I can't fathom how to re-connect it all. I can see where all the bits go, but just cannot get the 'lock' lever re-connected. To remove, I released the mechanism at the lock-end for the door release. The lock lever though is threaded, and does not release so easily. I got the old door release out by being bloody minded. Can anyone offer some advice on the procedure for refitting this, I have it in now, but not the door lock. (I am guessing I need to release both linkages from the lock-end, then fit to the release mechanism. If I did this, I cannot see how I will be able to screw the threaded part of the lock 'bar' again). Thanks in anticipation Steve PS I have tried using a lot of technical language at it, but with little success. :-(

And in hindsight, that was the obvious answer wasn't it. I didn't know the Club Shop sold them, because I just didn't look. Looks like the GT6 has a Type 16 Metric Caliper, and I can see the pads are there too. Thanks for the reply. I shall get some sorted, and get her back on the road.

I was reliably informed that a set of Mintex MBGB 535 -1144 pads would be a direct replacement. However, I have identified two problems 1) The holes for the pins are too small, though I was told these would need 'opening out' 2) The pads are physically the wrong size. See this picture, which shows the Mintex MGB 535 - 1144 pads on the left, and my original pads on the right http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/gallery/image/108-mintex-mgb-535-pads-small/ The following information relating to my current pads may also be useful; Triumph GT6 Mk3 VIN No. : KE123240 Hole Dia. For pins 6.5mm (approx..) Pad dimensions 78 x 63mm Can anyone tell me which pads I should have. Mintex suggested MGB 525 pads, but these look even less likely candidates. I have emailed the people who supplied (but did not recommend this type of pad) to see if they can help. If anyone hear can throw any light on this, it would be a useful cross-check. Just as some background, I am changing pads for two reasons (they are old, and starting to wear (I suspect there may be an issue with one pad, as it squeals badly). The choice of Mintex was made on recommendation as this was an easy way to preserver 'originality', but improve braking performance. Any help / advice would be appreciated. Steve

Agreed, and now looks like it has been. I shall try and be very diligent when I get round to doing this, and create an illustrated set of instructions, that I will add to this. (No promises, that is just what I should do :-) )