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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. I’m guessing but a bare chassis is an easy two man lift so maybe 70kg? Nick
  2. I use them without washers which I’m fairly sure is how they are used on Minis but using proper hardened washers as well shouldn’t do any harm. Nick
  3. Given you’ve confirmed fuel to the carbs and there are two them…. Why are we not thinking this could be an ignition problem? Coil, condensor, rotor arm? I have had the latter give very similar symptoms. Nick
  4. What is real tight at 15 - 20C may be rather less tight when the pump body is warmed to 60C…… Just saying…. Pleasing to hear that the new valves bring an obvious improvement. I wonder how many cars there out there with vapour lock issues may far worse by marginal valves….. Nick
  5. Which is bang in the middle of the range I posted earlier from the FWD manual….. Thanks for confirmation Martin. Nick
  6. Your are trying to mimic the Spit Mk3 arrangement with the larger cam-way bore (50mm nominal) and smaller cam journals with wrapped bearing shells between them. There the block needs boring out to 4 cylinder block specs as shown below in this extract from a 1300 FWD O&M
  7. Is the shaft it came off still straight? Took a fair thump to do that damage…. Nick
  8. They usually have a magnetic plug with a 3/4” hex head. Though as already observed, that looks more like a case of cross threading. Nick
  9. Ok. So is this actually an FD small-crank on the first few hundred, using up stocks, or something more widespread? Or is it a big crank FH with the Mk3 cam. I’ve never seen one (not surprising) and I don’t know anyone who has. As it happens, our earlyish MkIV does have a full FD engine. But only because we created it specially. The car came with a large crank FH. Didn’t measure the cam but it had no cam bearings. Nick
  10. May well be right about Spit Mk2, but I think the early MkIV thing is a myth. Nick
  11. Nooooo! I had a machinist who thought that would be an ok approach and two of the bearings came out while I was fitting the cam. I can tell you that on the 4 cylinder 1300 & 1500 engines, all camways are bored to the same size so you can fit shells or not to suit your cam. Only the Spit Mk3 and 1300TC FWD had them from the factory though. Nick
  12. Sounds like the exhaust manifold is blowing at the head /manifold joint to me Nick
  13. RAL3016 or RAL2002 according to the internet….. the latter possibly on “more recent” product. Don't worry, I’m not sure the concours judges carry paint swatches 😜 Nick
  14. Hi Wim, I think we put the join at the bottom on both the Spitfire and GT6. It shows less there but I don’t think it makes any practical difference. Ni
  15. No, it’s the same 25/75 profile as used for the Mk2 Vitesse/GT6 and Mk1/early Mk2 PI saloons. 308778 cam for the 6cyl. Good all-round road cam that works well with CD carbs (TR5/early 6, not so much, too much overlap) Nick
  16. Very likely. Was a well known issue back in the day. Can’t be many waxstats left in the wild these days…. Nick
  17. It’s not a complete myth…… unfortunately. Our MkIV Spit has a fairly rampant case right now. However, the history is that the engine was built from a fairly random collection of used parts to mostly resemble a Mk3 engine, with a big valve Mk IV head. The head was freshened up by lapping the valves and a general tidy up with some light porting. The exhaust valves took a lot of grinding. I was aware that I was chancing recession, but the cure is the same as prevention so….. meh. Anyway, it lasted about 8k. At about 5k the car had an EFI conversion and not many miles after that the use pattern changed with much more fast, open road work. First sign of trouble was a blown head gasket between 3&4. I didn’t immediately twig, but did notice that all the exhaust valves were tight (especially 4) when reassembling and then again after torquing the head after 300 miles. Pretty soon after that it started having running issues which we eventually realised were due to no valve clearances on 1 &4 exhaust….. oh yeah, now we get it…… So, at present the state of play is that without additive it does about 250 miles between tappet settings, at which point it’s pretty sick. With additive…… at least 600 and still going strong….. I previously ran my Vitesse for 25k or so on a standard, well used head with no sign of recession, but did have seats fitted when I ported the head. Even then I’ve recently found the exhaust valves to be 2 thou tighter than the inlets after a hard 20k (4 track days, 3 long continental road trips plus usual running around) and the engine is noticeably crisper with them back where they should be. So well used standard head with lead memory/work hardening will last well, especially if it doesn’t see too much sustained high power usage. However, grind away that layer and/or use the car hard, and recession gets real soon enough. I’m repeating the Spitfire experiment on the GT6. It’s ok so far but it’s only done 1100 miles…. Nick
  18. Baines are the ones. Correct profile, correct hardness, correct length. Unlike certain others. Had two from Paddocks (who were very helpful btw) that were both way too long and one was about 30mm longer than the other. Tried shortening the longer one so it was a snug fit around the screen and it was better (could actually get the screen in the car), but still wouldn’t sit right in the corners. Baines one went straight in and sat right first go. Nick
  19. You what? I couldn’t get a quote below £300…… which is was I now have a Golf radiator which cost a 10th of that brand new…… Similar issue with the Vitesse except there’s no squeezing a Golf rad in that. Nick
  20. Nick Jones


    I was told of problems with the Payen 6 cylinder head gasket for recessed blocks by non-other than Chris Witor, so I reckon that would be true. Not sure about the 4 pots but there do seem to have been a few people with problems recently. Nick
  21. I reckon you can get it out without removing the window. Might not be easier though…. Especially the putting it back bit…..
  22. You can adjust the effective stroke by moving the inside release handle assembly. It’s mounting holes are slotted for this purpose. Nick
  23. There never was a pickup. Either a chopped down estate or even a saloon. The pictures are too few/poor to tell. Suspect a very high bodge count on that one! Nick
  24. TR5/early 6 cam is 280 duration IIRC, but has a lot of overlap. It needs a throttle per pot to play nicely really, but then it was designed for use with ITBs and sequential injection. I meant cam timing rather than ignition timing, retarding the timing tends to move the power/torque down the rev band. If you are happy with the way it drives, just enjoy it 🙂. Mine flattens off about 5.5k when cam specs say it should be good for at least another 1k, but in practice I only ever notice on the track and I only do that about once a year…… Nick
  25. What cam is it? What exhaust manifold? The standard Mk2 cam is 270 duration though much less lift and the factory standard engine I did have in my Vitesse was happy to rev to Smiths both when still on carbs and later when injected. That made 120bhp when injected but also had a bit of head work and a 6-3-1 by that time. So maybe a bit surprising that the cam would be the limiting factor, unless it’s timed retarded? That said, the engine in my GT6 which is built as a Mk2 with an alleged factory Mk2 cam is much less keen to rev though it is very torquey and willing low down. Nick
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