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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. One of our Spitfire mounts is made almost entirely of Tigerseal after an elderly original fell apart. Definitely a bodge and only intended as an emergency temporary measure…. Though four years later we may be stretching the definition of temporary! The new one bought to replace it got used to replace the not very old repro one on the other side when it failed because…. We’d run out of Tigerseal…… (other PU sealants exist but I’ve not tested them in this application). Nick
  2. Are the bolts holding the backplate tight? Nick
  3. There’s your problem. The sensor is measuring mostly engine load rather than radiator efficiency. You need to raise the switching point a little. I had similar problems with my Vitesse for exactly the same reason as the fan is switched by the ECU which gets its temperature from the thermostat housing. My GT6 has a well shrouded Golf radiator and runs dead centre at all times except in traffic when it creeps up to 3/4+ because the Golf switch point (on the rad outlet) is a bit high. I’d prefer it a little lower but it doesn’t seem to cause any problems. The reason that your engine temperature goes up at high speed in spite of the airflow is that there isn’t enough air going through the radiator and the engine load is quite high. Whether this is due to lack of shrouds/ducting/engine side panels or simply the air not being able to escape the engine bay, I don’t know. Nick
  4. Blimey….. my Vitesse has electronic fuel injection and MGF seats….. must be worth a few quid! Haven’t bothered with an expensive stereo (can’t hear it and has 6cyl music to listen to built) and electric windows seem unneeded. My son put EWs in his Spitty using Honda Prelude parts, not quite sure why though. Nick
  5. Compression tests should be done warm with all plugs out and the throttle wide open. I generally allow 5 compression strokes per pot. Absolute results are a bit lower than might be expected, but the compression gauge is an uncalibrated device. They are nice and even though, so if it’s running well and not breathing heavily or burning oil, I reckon it’s likely fine Nick
  6. Mine (elderly sidevalve Honda) ran on E85 for two seasons using up the results of a mis-fuel. It was a bit of a bugger to start from cold (sniff of carb cleaner saved my arm) but other than that, you couldn’t really tell. It did chew through it quicker than standard petrol. Long term effects? Well, we are probably 12 years on from that now, but apart from a new plug and a couple of oil changes it just clatters and smokes as it always has…. Nick
  7. That would be me…… they, Falken SN832s, were and still are brilliant in the wet. Also, now they are about half worn, they are pretty excellent in the dry too. Bit squirmy and squeaky in the dry with full tread, but admittedly that’s while trying far harder that I generally would on the road. Now have them on my GT6 and my sons Spitfire too.
  8. Yes. It will be the same. I've tried most size combinations over the years and always just swap the pushrod over. As long as the holes are not worn oval - all is good. Nick PS Current state of play in my fleet Vitesse: 0.625" Brake master (std 0.7") to reduce pedal effort (at expense of a bit of extra travel) 0.75" Clutch master (std 0.625") because Toyota gearbox and hybrid clutch GT6: 0.75" Brake master (std 0.7") because remote servo 0.7" Clutch master (std 0.625) because MX5 gearbox and concentric clutch
  9. Just swap the push-rod from your original master. 1 circlip, takes under a minute….. Nick
  10. I fitted valve stem seals to my 2.5 PI using more or less this method. Much quicker than lifting the head. Nick
  11. No way is that a £ 22k car. Panel fit is dire and no pics of interior or engine bay. Mind you, this one is even more... https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1350464 World's gone mad; I've just found 3 Mk3s on Car and Classic priced over £25k..... and a Vitesse Mk2 CV for £30k.... Nick
  12. Don't think the factory ones do. Didn't JK / Canley Classics do some? I know they were near impossible to find at one point and then became available again. Nick
  13. Ah, but the gallery volume is tiny compared to an empty filter can. Metal banging on metal in a hydrodynamic bearing is never harmless. The harm per event may be minor if you keep the revs down and it's brief, but there is harm. Engines that get near instant oil pressure at start-up, hot or cold, will outlast those that don't. Nick
  14. Using them without problem on 3 Triumphs........ Vitesse has had several. Nick
  15. Mann 714/2. Compact and with two anti-drain flaps. There are many, many other possibilities. Nick
  16. Suspect he means something more like a Dremel? I’ve not been able to find a decent, reasonable priced one for a while now. B&Q used to do a decent one but no longer. Have a Silverline one at present but wouldn’t really recommend it. Nick
  17. For those wondering what a “farkle” is https://ridermagazine.com/2017/02/01/what-the-heck-is-a-farkle/ this seems to make the most sense I context….…..as opposed to a dice based board game or breaking wind while chuckling…. Nick
  18. Apparently still functioning on eBay….. https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/eurekatriumph?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5336904792&toolid=10001&customid=ks0mf3o3yh001iim00003
  19. What piston springs are fitted, if any? The mixture the engine sees is partly determined by the open jet area (in turn determined by the needle profile and piston position) and partly determined by the vacuum above the jet (determined my airflow and piston position). One of the most basic design calibrations of the CD carb design, SU or Stromberg, is to set the piston weighting (combination of actual weight and sometimes additional spring pressure) so that the piston is fully raised only at the engines maximum airflow demand. If the weight is insufficient, the main effect is that the piston will rise too much, vacuum above the jet will be low, and the mixture lean across the range. The secondary effect is that should you ever manage to find a rich enough needle that it appears to more or less work, you will then find that once you get to a certain rev/throttle combination, the carb piston is prematurely fully raised, and it looses its ability to control, the vacuum increases and the mixture goes uncontrollably rich. 150CD carbs are just big enough for a 2L @6000rpm, with not much margin for extra flow. They’ll support maybe 120bhp without resorting to “restricted inlet” type tuning tactics. This doesn’t automatically mean they are too small for any 2.5. If you are not expecting to rev your 2.5 much beyond 4.5 - 5k rpm they’ll be fine, provided they are correctly calibrated. Nick
  20. I’m guessing but a bare chassis is an easy two man lift so maybe 70kg? Nick
  21. I use them without washers which I’m fairly sure is how they are used on Minis but using proper hardened washers as well shouldn’t do any harm. Nick
  22. Given you’ve confirmed fuel to the carbs and there are two them…. Why are we not thinking this could be an ignition problem? Coil, condensor, rotor arm? I have had the latter give very similar symptoms. Nick
  23. What is real tight at 15 - 20C may be rather less tight when the pump body is warmed to 60C…… Just saying…. Pleasing to hear that the new valves bring an obvious improvement. I wonder how many cars there out there with vapour lock issues may far worse by marginal valves….. Nick
  24. Which is bang in the middle of the range I posted earlier from the FWD manual….. Thanks for confirmation Martin. Nick
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