Sandgroper

My mentor in my younger days was an uncle who served as an Army mechanic through WW2. He soaked resistant bolts etc in a recipe that, sadly, went with him to his grave. The only thing that I remember was that it took days!!!

Applied as much heat as I feel safe with working alone! No go. So the bolts are cut and drilling will commence as and when I have the time. Hope my drilling goes as well as Ed.h's !!! The job has inspired a garage clear out, repaired my grinder switch, re- shafted two well loved hammers and decided to unbolt my sheet folder (no more 'special' building now!) to clear bench space.

I am preparing to do battle with a couple of GT6 Roto uprights for my Nick Jones CV jointed shafts and anticipate at least a couple of obstinate bolts. Surely, I thought, someone will have found a simple way to resolve this old problem. I guess not, but does anyone have any good advice (apart from dump them!)?

Having started building a CV joint conversion a couple of years ago family health problems forced a halt. I now want to finish off what I started but I require a pair of Rotoflex uprights for machining to take MG bearings etc. Has anyone any to sell? Cheshire area preferred.

Hi, A rather stupid problem that I suspect has a very simple solution! I have restored my Mk 3 and in doing so added some left and right indicator tell-tales on the dash. They worked OK at first but, after a winter standing under the car port the left hand indicators refuse to flash! The tell-tales light up fine. The right hand indicators work fine but the LH indicators front and rear, simply light, reliably but without flashing. My initial thought was a new flasher unit, but would that resolve the problem. Power is obviously getting through so it must be in the flasher unit itself. They were never that reliable any way! Is there a more reliable solid state unit available? If I'm going to fish about under the dash I would like to sort the problem for good and all.

Just trying to improve the starting on my 1972 GT6 Mk3 Rotoflex. Had a look at the workshop manual but this doesn't show the same carb ! The brass tag on the front carb has the numbers '2245' and '3432R' impressed on it. The carbs work fine once the engine is going but starting is poor. I feel that the problem is in the choke activation area. The choke cable operates on the front carb only. This is connected to the rear carb by a fuel line - seeming to indicated that the choke supplies extra juice to the rear carb. for starting. The rear carb looks to be exactly the same type of carb, but there are no interconnecting options. My hunch is that it isn't giving a rich enough mixture. Has anyone any ideas? Is this arrangement common? How do you set it up?