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Andy Moss

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Andy Moss last won the day on October 4 2015

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  • Location
    Bristol
  • Cars Owned
    Mk3 Spitfire

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  1. I had this problem for ages. Rebuilt the whole ignition and carbs. Only thing that solved it - had carbs professionally rebuilt. I’d rebushed the spindles and everything. I can give you a number that is reasonable if you like.
  2. Seem to be getting a bit off topic. So VSR can occur, but typically needs a bit more stress than routine driving. This may be due to the quality of the parts used by triumph. Later cars may have higher likelihood of VSR due to degraded parts quality during the 70s. Fuel quality may also have some effect, but difficult to quantify. Is that a reasonable summary?
  3. In summary (so far), 3 examples of no recession on cars used without additives (no track use) show no signs of VSR. Would be useful from those that have had real problems with VSR and under what circumstances.
  4. Must admit I have thought about this one for a while. I’ve not seen any evidence of seat recession in cars without. Even when lead memory is affected by decoke or other seat lapping. What do I know. Thought that the engines tended to run hotter, but we live in the uk and most triumphs have permanent fans. Will continue to ignore the seat recession clap trap until there is good reason for modifications.
  5. I remember seeing some of these cars with a long flexible breathed tube just hanging down toward the sump. Without being terminated. Guess you could re-route the breather pipe.
  6. Andy Moss

    Oil drips

    Oh - could be the scroll seal on the gear box if that is over filled. Check that first.
  7. Andy Moss

    Oil drips

    Main oil seal. Likely that somebody has tightened the sump screws too much and distorted the centring of the oil seal. Either that or the oil seal has gone. Either way - it’s a gearbox out job to fix. I did mine the other Christmas. Lots of fun.
  8. Andy Moss

    20 50 or EP90

    If you can’t smell the difference - maybe have a Covid test. I hate the smell of hypoid gear oil. Dismantled an old coil when I was a kid. Even to this day it turns my stomach. Give it a sniff.
  9. Get a good Payen gasket set and you can use a little sealer. I like to spray the gasket with the copper spray a gasket. Works a treat. Others may disagree with thus approach though.
  10. Use gas welding then! I have found welding a nut on is best too. Even better if you can spot blast round the stud before.
  11. There are lots of buyers guides out there. In my view rust is the most important thing to look out for in the usual places (sills, floors and bottom cornered of inner and outer wing, lower A and B post, front of the bonnet in both corners) - use a magnet to look for filler). Look at chassis for any corrosion (particularly the where the front out-riggers joint at the front of the floor area). Look at door shut lines, for signs of poor repairs (should be even). Engine need to look for tapper rattle on start up, sign of weak oil pump. See if you can move the crank pulley, as there can be wear in the half bearings. Drive the car and look at the drive way to see how much oil it is dropping (most cars drop some). On the drive, check it goes into all the gears smoothly and doesn’t jump out of gear. Listen for whines from engine, gearbox, rear axel and wheel bearings. Whines from the clutch release bearing (when clutch is pressed) and merely annoying. Check it stops ok and does not pull to one side and that steering is not vague (may need new suspension bushes). Inspect springs for corrosion and shocks for leaks. Look at rear of car and if it leans to one side, the rear spring has sagged. Look are fuel lines for corrosion bulges brake hoses. Check oil to see when it was last serviced look are tire ware to see if it is even check body work for defects and hood (If fitted) for tears. Check lights, instruments, screen wash/wipe, horn, heater (including flaps in foot well). Sit in seats and see if the foams have failed (look for crumbly decaying foam under seats). Lift carpet and check for musty smell which is sign of water ingress. Smell inside of boot for fuel leaks. Check paint round brake and clutch master cylinders for puckering which signify a fluid leak. Check under battery for corrosion. Ask if trunnions have been oiled recently. Check tyres for cracks and uneven wear (poor suspension geometry). Inspect exhaust while running for visible smoke and over rich mixture (smells of unburned petrol). Bound to have forgotten something! cheers.
  12. Have ordered new RPM and Dwell meter after the Draper one broke. Need to have advance curve with same equipment before I start making changes. Incidentally, I got a draper one from Halfords, which would not measure rpm and flicked between random numbers. Took it back - it was awful.
  13. added the following - curves - seems that the decel curve wrong. wonder if I could play with the dizzy at each rpm to find mid point between too much advance and too much retard and try to tune to that curve. I guess this is best done when the car is under load, so trip to rolling road might be best.
  14. I have done the high to low curve and here is the result. I have also set the advance at 2000 rpm to ~16.5deg as that is mid way between the WSM limits. This gives a idle advance of about 11degs, which is lots more then the 6deg nominal. Off to see how badly it pinks. Smile. It goes really well, but has a slight pink at about 2500. should it really be ok at idle with 11 degrees of advance? I’m really quite puzzled.
  15. The courier April/2020 shows the black line on page 31 for the 123-ignition distributor, note this is a Mk4/1500 curve. Posted for interest only. adv_curve_v2.fig
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