David McHugh

Pete,very well explained, now that I have all the answers for what I was looking for thanks to John and yourself, i am just waiting for a slightly warmer day to implement the checks and adjustments where needed. It's not nice handling metal for hours in 2 to 4 degrees. Happy new year to you Pete.

Hi John,great we are thinking along the same lines, what you have suggested is what my Dad said except you have explained it far better, so thanks once again. It probably won't be today but I will try your method in the next couple of days. Happy New Year to you John

Pete, thanks for the reply. The engine has been completely stripped down, so the timing chain has been off and the camshaft out. When I put it back together in checked that I had aligned the timing markers. I have had the engine in pieces before and rebuilt it and hado it on the road after without any problems. David

John, Thank you for your reply too. I did check only one carbs with my hand over the intake while turning over with the key not by hand, I thought it would be enough. Covering both carbs is something I can try. As for cam timing, this is where I originally thought the problem my lie, this was why I have checked that the valves on no4 are doing what the manual said they should be doing ie. as no1 comes up to tdc no4 exhaust valve should be closing and the inlet value should be opening, if this is happening surely that means the cam timing is correct? It would help to know what stage the valves on no4 should be at tdc, this would be more accurate. I have a compression tester but have not tried it because I didn't think that the engine being turned on the key would be fast enough to get a reading. I will try the compression tester, if it doesn't work, I will try my finger in a plug hole with the rest in place. Sorry to say I didn't understand what you meant by taking all but one plug out and then?? Thank you to for the video clip, very funny lol David

Mjit, thank you for your response. I understand the 4 stroke cycle of suck, squeeze, bang and blow, however I failed to run through the sequence to understand why the Haynes is telling me to check the valves on no4 and not no1 when bringing no1 to tdc. I have adjusted the tappets but I have not checked that they are going loose when closed. I will do this as my next step. I have got fuel in the carbs, that was my first check. I have tried Easy Start, I don't get any firing just a blow back through the forward carb, this happens after turning it over for about 3 secondseries and seems to be consistent. I think I have covered all of your points, thank you, I will check that the valves are actually going loose when closedo, as my next priority now to John's reply.

Hi all, once again your expertise help is sort. 1973 Spitfire IV 1300cc Following a rebuild I am not getting fuel to the plugs, in fact the carbs are not suckling when placing my hand over the air intake of the carbs. From the tests I have done,it am pretty certain that it is a timing problem. The Haynes manual says that in order to check if the rotor is 180 degrees out. When turning the crank to bring no1 to tdc no4 exhaust valve should be closing and the inlet value should be opening, however it would be more logical to me if this was happening at no1 and not at no4 as it is no1 that is at tdc, likewise the rotor is pointing to no1. In a case where I am not 180 degrees out, could it be to do with the distributor adjustment ? I am setting no1 at 8 degrees btdc with the rotor directly central to the no1 terminal in the distributor cap, is this correct? or should it be that the rotor be just on the leading edge of the terminal? All comments, recommendations etc will be appreciated. Best wishes David

Hi Steve C, I am in the process of yet another block rebuild and wondered what you thought of my idea, when complete use a diesel engine oil to run the engine (car stationery) for say ten to 20 minutes at about 2000 reves, drain itand replace with Halford classic and follow your regime of 50/250/500/1000/2000.The reason I thought of using the diesel oil first, is to try to remove the sludge that gets stuck on the internal surfaces. I have removed what I can but feel that a wash out with diesel oil will get to the places I was unable to reach. I would value your and anyone else's thoughts / comments on this. Thank you in advance, Kind regards David late 1973 Spitfire IV original 1300cc

Hi Guys, my Spitfire IV failed it's MOT, one of the things is "Brakes imbalanced across an axle rear" can anyone please tell me what, apart from a faulty cylinder, would cause unequal braking pressure between the back Wheels? If it is a cylinder is it likely to be obvious which one it is or for the sake of £10 is it just best to change both? Thank you in advance for your help. David

John and Pete, wow so much information. Thank you guys for your time spent on providing me with some great possibilities. Due to the complexity of fettling a head I have ordered a book, How to Build, Modify & Power Tune Cylinder Heads by Peter Burgess & David Gullane. I do actually have a spare engine, so have a head to play around with, I think this is a job that is going to take me some time so ha email put my head back on the car so that I can use it. Using the other head and the book when it arrives I will have a go at tuning òver the coming couple of months and will let you both know how I get on. Kind regards David.

John I do actually like the sound of increasing the compression, while I understand skimming the head, I don't understand what you mean by "flowing the head, ducts and chambers," I would be greatfull if you would elaborate. Kind regards David

Thank you for your replies. The head has been converted to unleaded, I put in new cam followers when I did a partial rebuild at the same time I upgraded the cooling pipe that Richard referred to with stainless steel and Pete, I did change the filters but once I get some flexible hosing I will put the original back. I have also purchased the radiator and engine side panels. Going back to the head, I was wandering if it is worth replacing valves and springs those sort of things? I have no intention of tweaking as Pete said it can lead to problems. Kind regards David

Hi Simon, when you first heard the sound did you ask what it was or did he offer any kind of reason or any comment about it? I appreciate that you don't have the experience but he didn't know that, had it been me selling it with a sound that is quite obviously not supposed to be there, I would of offered an explanation. I find it very odd if he did not react in some way when the sound started. I think you made the right decision to walk away. Kind regards David

Hello to All, While I have the cylinder head off, I am looking for ideas/suggestions for what I can do to it that will be beneficial, I thought of either putting new valves in or grinding in the existing, incase there are any signs of carbon build-up, however I don't know if this is worthwhile or not. Your thoughts and comments on the above and on other things that I can or should do that is beneficial, will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Kind regards David Spitfire IV '73 1300cc French Blue

Thanks Ben, really appreciate it. David