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SpitFire6

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Everything posted by SpitFire6

  1. Pete, your figures seem rather low for wheel studs. I thought wheel studs n nuts were all higher than 8.8 grade? I'm sure my 12mm nuts are torqued to over 80 Lb/Ft. Cheers, Iain.
  2. Hi,. I don't think you will ever find a magic micron filter as it will block up too quick? I have a bypass oil filter on my car. My oil is filtered better than any oil filter. Not running 20W50 mineral helps as well I think. Cheers, Iain.
  3. Hi, If the fan will not fit behind the radiator just fit it in the front. The difference is minimal. Would enjoy seeing real-life tests? IMHO, you would get better cooling changing from 50% antifreeze to 25% or even 0% antifreeze if your climate allows it. add a suitable corrosion inhibitor of course. I run a push fan configuration. Once I find a cowing and fan combo to fit between engine and rad I will fit as it is the best IMHO. If you can fit a pull fan with shroud, I would guess this is the best place for the fan. Most pull fan fitments I have seen have no cowling. I don't run the Standard inefficient water pump and thermostat. have fitted a proper modulating thermostat, so not in a rush to fit pull fan and cowling at the moment. Back on Mechanical pump since 2018. Cheers, Iain.
  4. Hi, You cold fit two sensors top and bottom. Only switch on when no air flow thru fan or flow is not doing good? Cheers, Iain
  5. Hi, A switch is normally not polarity sensitive and I guess a car temp switch is the same. A switch would only be polarity sensitive if it incorporated a diode for external protection. Put a multimeter set on diode test and the switch should be open both ways to confirm it is not polarity sensitive. You could use a higher temperature top switch and a lower temperature bottom switch wired in parallel, as long as both are normally open, and close on temperature rise you will get the best of both? Cheers, Iain.
  6. Hi, My GT6_Spitfire with OD had a 3.63. diff. The 3.27 is great with an OD. Around 10% difference is not felt. I run a TR saloon transmission and can smoke the 215's if I want with no clutch slip. LOL. Cheers, Iain.
  7. Hi, On modern roads, a non-overdrive car is too noisy, drinks fuel and wears the engine out. An OD will pay for itself in x years. X mighty be a big number. LOL. Cheers, Iain.
  8. Hi, I thought the Spitfire wheel had an ET+22. I would be interested in the true number if i'm wrong as I want to correct my MGTF wheels with an ET+28 to the correct figure. Example: it the OEM offset of your wheels are for example ET+22 and your new wheels are ET+28, you will need to add a spacer of 6mm to bring the offset back to ET+22. I used this helpful website to understand offset: http://www.willtheyfit.com/ Correct ET will put the load in the correct place on the bearing as OEM wheels. Wrong ET on the front can effect steering. I doubt 5mm or so makes that much difference? Did read some where that it is better to go one way than the other though. Different offset also effects your spring rate. I have 16"7J ET+28 on the rear & 15"6J ET28 on the front. Looking at having some proper spaces machined to reduce the offset to the correct value. ET+22/ET20/ET25? I have short shafts and CV's & a skinny ARB. Cheers, Iain.
  9. Hi, You need to drive it a bit more maybe? Remove wire from sensor and connect to ground to do a quick test to show the gauge and power supply is working OK. A shorted temperature sensor should show over 100% on gauge. Cheers, Iain.
  10. Hi, Balbus was it No.3 that let go? Cheers, Iain.
  11. Hi, I bought a kit for my twin speed motor a few years ago but have not got round to fitting it yet. It pulses the wipers when the windscreen is wet and changes speeds depending how wet the screen is. Additionally, can auto switch the headlamps on if desired. Cost about 100 quid I think. Must get round to fitting it once I can get a decent set of arms and wipers that are fit for purpose. The rain drop sensor would have to be fitted on the nearside as fitting it TDC like a modern would not work as the blades don't clean here. LOL. Cheers, Iain.
  12. Hi, Apologies Mark for posting the wrong schematic. No idea what the chip is. A triple 5? Hope the schematic gets you sorted & Sorry. Iain.
  13. Hi, It looks like a hot and cold air feed. If it has a thermal controlled flap in the filter box, I guess it would be good for cold running emissions. Maybe a Green party owner? Cheers' Iain.
  14. Hi, Unfortunately I have lost too many brain cells over the years. Not all batteries are the same capacity, a good clue is the weight/mass. Its quite normal for a manufactory to fit a "standard" lead plates into many different cases; keeps costs down. So, if you buy a type 75 and it weighs the same as a type 63, guess what. Check the weight/mass and bigger is better IMHO. Cheers, Iain.
  15. Hi, I assume you are measuring voltage at the battery. " at idle she sits somewhere around 12.5V" This is too low to charge the battery and will result in a low capacity battery. "the voltage quickly rises to over 15V when I drive off" This suggests that your battery is low capacity. "once warmed up she idles at around 11.5V" As above, too low and not charging. "I couldn't get her past 13.2V even at ~4000 rpm." That voltage will not charge very good and will cause battery to have a low charge. Sorry not much help. Buy a new battery and ensure that there is a minimum of 13.8v on it while the engine is running. I suspect your voltage readings are not off the battery, as amongst other things, you can still start you car. Alternator fitment is a good move. Cheers, Iain.
  16. Hi Pete, I'm sorry but I disagree with you. for the following reasons: The battery is used to start the car. The more power it can supply the quicker the car will start. Once the engine is running the car will replace the energy that has been lost by starting, A higher capacity battery might require less charge. A car battery should not be cycled under normal conditions. Cycling a car battery of any size will destroy it. End of life will be sooner with a lower capacity one. I recommend the type 75 over the 63 as it has a lower internal resistance and has more capacity. A win/win if it fits, and it does. If you have a type 63, good, it you need to change due to failure, look at the type 75. Cheers, Iain.
  17. Hi, I beg to differ, The type 75 or type 75T is the battery to fit. Its slightly wider and fits a treat. The type 63 is normally less energy than the type 75 and less than the type 75T. Why would you fit a type 63 when a bigger and more powerful type 75 fits? Cheers, Iain. PS. I am talking about Spitfire 1500 and GT6 MK3 fitment.
  18. Hi, Should be green (12V-Ignition) to a terminal. Should be black (ground) to body. Should be green/grey (-ve of coil) to a terminal With just the green and black connected the needle should not move. If the two wires are on the correct terminals and it does not read zero; it's kaput. If it is faulty the few electronics inside could be fixed by a competent electronics person. Suspect a cap has gone short. Cheers, Iain.
  19. Hi, suspect it is rust/iron oxide. Your carbs are not made of iron/ferrous so will show no signs. Cheers, Iain.
  20. Hi, I'm 6 foot. I regret having MX5 seats in my car. I sit too high. One day soon I will have to investigate how to remove some foam from the cushion. Can't have my fully reconditioned leather spitfire seats refitted into the car as the garage "lost" them. I wish I never had the MX5 seats fitted. Cheers, Iain.
  21. I have found brake fluid is good at lifting all the paint and easy to remove. No rubbing, just spill a little and after a few days or a few weeks; all the paint is lifted! Cheers, Iain.
  22. Hi, So fault likely found; low tension valve springs? A new one for me. I think standard springs will be a big upgrade to your present setup. Cheers, Iain.
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