Barry Kemp

A quick question (well, two actually) about refurb of an original Herald AC fuel pump. The refurb kit doesn't include the fibre washer that sits under the spring retaining washer of the new diaphragm. It does contain a 'hat-shaped' rubber washer. Is this a replacement for the original flat washer - or for another type of pump? If it isn't a replacement how critical is the flat washer -should it be replaced? Also, prior to re-fitting the pump, is there a knack to aligning the curved arm of the pump back into the block - or is it blindingly obvious !? Many thanks. Barry

I guess in the old days before MOTs if they looked knackered they would be failed. Even post-MOT I wouldn’t want to be driving around in a car that previously would have been considered unsafe. You would have a hard time proving the bushes are actually sound if they look perished on the outside.

Excellent - thanks Pete. That's put my mind at ease! Should be a nice Sunday afternoon job then!

Looking at my front suspension I realise that the rubber bushes at the bottom of the front dampers are beginning to perish. Does replacement of these bushes involve compressing the coil spring, or is it a simpler operation? Thanks, Barry

That's not the one I saw back in the 70's up on a chimney between Clapham Junction and Waterloo stations. Keep on searching ! Barry

Sorry Pete, i don't quite understand your comments. Are you saying that the problem is in the pushrod seal, ie a hole that shouldn't be there? Barry

I think the master cylinder was rebuilt about 9 years ago -so probably worn?

Ok so I've probably bled a cars brakes a dozen or so times in my life but I have a question that I am now surprised I have to ask. I hope this is not dementia coming on as I feel I should know the answer! Having pumped the brake pedal 3 or 4 times air bubbles come up from the bottom of the master cylinder when I release the pedal. Is this normal or a sign of a leaky seal in the M/c?

Thanks Paul, I'm sure it was a GT6 as I'd like to think this is what got me hooked! I'd love to find a photo of it. Also I'd love to find the girl who went through the cat flap..I seem to remember her name was Janet....but maybe this is for another forum!!

Does anyone remember there being a GT6 on top of an old industrial chimney at one of the London train stations in the late 70's? This came up in a conversation a few days ago and it triggered an old memory of mine - as far as I recall it was there for quite a long time, I think probably Clapham Junction. I also remember a girl crawling through a cat flap at a party ... I loved the 70's!

You're all so kind! I've spoken to the supplier of the bushes and they've agreed to make sure that their salesman/advisors inform people that the outer sleeves need to be removed and that the inner sleeves must always be fitted. Hopefully no one else will make the same mistake now. Right....next job on the list! Barry

Thanks Paul & Richard, So - I now realise something that i wondered about when I first stripped out the old bush, there is an additional metal sleeve in the spring eye. I feel pretty stupid now! I was fitting the polybush (and inner sleeve) into this- which would explain why the new bush won't fit with an inner sleeve. I got the impression that the supplier had heard before that the new bushes don't fit - but perhaps (like me) wasn't aware that the outer sleeve needs to be removed first. Paul - any tips on removing the outer sleeve, it looks pretty solid? Photo attached.

I purchased a pair of Polybushes to replace the worn bushes that fit in to the rear spring eye /vertical link. The bushes themselves were easy enough to fit since they were the soft, blue "comfort" version. However having spent hours trying to fit the metal sleeve -which then distorts (stretches) the bush I phoned the supplier to be told the sleeves aren't required. This was rather annoying given the time spent trying to fit them. One thing occurs to me - without the metal sleeve the bush is a very loose fit around bolt , surely this will result in rapid wear - particularly given that the bushes are so soft? Stupidly I can't recall if the original rubber bush included a sleeve. Any thoughts?

Having replaced my front trunions recently I moved on to the rear ones.I was surprised to find that there is no way to lubricate them in-situ. Is this a design fault? The set of replacement trunions fit so tightly into the housing that it looks really difficult to get any lubricant around them. This only leaves the metal sleeve that can be lubricated - so why are there rubber seals that fit around the trunion/ between each of the two metal end pieces?

I've found an easy way to grease the UJ's on my Herald drive shafts. Get hold of a disposable plastic syringe from Ebay or possibly the chemist (mine was a 25ml syringe from a vet) and fill it with grease. The body of the syringe is small enough to fit between the knuckles of the UJ and the nozzle will fit directly into the hole where the blanking screw was. You may have to refill the syringe a few times depending on how much grease is needed , so it may be worth buying a range of different sizes - they cost very little. Attached is a couple of photos. Barry

I don't understand why there would be such a massive difference in the effort needed to get the bearings off. Other than the fact that mine had never been changed, so was on there for 49 years!

So, I took the shaft to my local garage to remove the bearing. They couldn't get the bearing off but bent the flange! My next trip was to a private address with a good old fashioned engineer . He got the bearing off with his big press but the bearing shattered. Fortunately he managed to flatten the bent flange on his press - so that saved me a bit of money. The oil seal behind the bearing was made of leather...it reminded me of just how old the car is! I'm guessing the new bearing won't go back on without using a press? Can't wait to do the other side! I still love the old girl though!

The circlip on my output shaft came off after a few minutes by using the sharp end of a nail underneath one end of the clip and pushing the nail up and around the shaft. I can see by the photos that the clip still looks useable , but heed Petes advice about buying new circlips (the right ones). The bearing is a different story...won't come off no matter how much I swear at it. A trip to my local garage is on the cards!

Hello Andrew, thanks for your offer - I'm down in East Sussex. Barry

Thanks guys , that's really helpful - especially the photos. I shall start on it this week and let you know how things go. Regards, Barry

Ok so now you've got me doubting my resolve ! There has been a slight leak from the seals for years and years but I thought I'd correct this as I'd taken the driveshafts/vertical links off to clean them up & paint them. I'm tempted to ignore the leak now! How much of this is done under the car and how much is done on the bench? For example is the circlip removed on the bench?

My Herald is leaking oil from both sides of the the diff /driveshafts. What is involved in replacing the oil seals? I can't find much info about this. Do I need any special tools to do this?

I've recently fitted MGF seats to my herald using the instructions from Richard/Adam and i have to say it all went according to plan. The one thing that I would like to do is find some mechanism to make the seat backs tilt/lock in order to let any rear seat passengers out more easily. Does anyone know where such a mechanism can be sourced . I've seen some on Ebay from a SAAB 900 but they look a bit complicated. Thanks,

Thanks everybody! It was the dash rocker switch.. replaced it with a Halfords 3 position switch to get me through the MOT until I can find the proper one. Rimmers and Canley no longer have them in stock so may be an E-bay purchase. A nice and easy fix - now all I have to do is find that tiny Allen grub screw from the heater knob that mysteriously disappeared into the GT6 innards. Such a small car yet so many places to hide!

So, I've just dropped the GT6 in for it's MOT and it's failed on sidelights. For some reason (having been working for years) the sidelights (all 4) now only come on when the headlights are switched on. How is the switch wired? Could it be as simple as a lead coming off the back of the switch - or arcing? I wasn't expecting this! Thanks, Barry