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Barry Kemp

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Everything posted by Barry Kemp

  1. All fixed! Thanks once again TSSC forum....where would I be without you (still in the garage probably !) Barry
  2. Thanks Karl, I had to short the terminals a few times before the starter motor came to life - but the sparks were exciting! Guess that means a new solenoid...still a fairly cheap replacement, so not too bad.
  3. I have a similar problem as David. Battery is checked and good but when I turn the key all I get is a loud click from the solenoid. Pete - to test you say to bridge the terminals on the solenoid, which terminals do you mean? Cheers, Barry
  4. That's right...no fuses at all in early Heralds. I think they went crazy on 13/60's and fitted one fuse. Bless them!
  5. Thanks Pete, It was working fine up until I re-connected the battery with the switch left on, so I know the motor is wired correctly . Assuming the damage was caused when it was powered up , what is most likely to be damaged and how will it appear? Barry
  6. I think I've just done something stupid! I was re-connecting the wiper motor after a bit of a clean-up and re- connected the battery when the wiper switch was on. Result, wiper motor no longer wants to work. Since there is no fuse is this likely to be fatal? Is there anything that can be done to fix the motor? New ones are pretty expensive. Thanks. Barry
  7. Thanks Steve, I did send my heater to the Demisterman for a re-core and what a great job he did - very fast turnaround and it even came back with replacements for the old foam strips to stop it knocking against the inside of the heater box. One of the best £80's I've spent on the car. Can't wait to get out and drive on a cold winters day!
  8. I found a supplier on e-Bay that sells rolls of self adhesive neoprene strip which you can use to make the round and square gaskets for the heater box. It is available in 20mm widths (5mm thick) so all you have to do is wind it round the circular fan housing 3 or 4 times to replicate the original gasket. The square one is easy too- just use 2 layers to stick directly on to the bulkhead. A 10m roll costs just over £6.50, so a cheap and easy fix!
  9. Thanks guys, sounds straight forward enough other than me being upside down...reminds me of a Diana Ross song!
  10. So I'm in the early stages of refurbishing my Herald scuttle panel and I need to remove the Delaney heater box (the square one). There's one screw at the top but appear to be two fixings at the bottom, one at each end of the box that iareimpossible to get to as they are under the box. Any ideas on how to get the box off? . Do I just lever it up - or is there some fiendish fixing I don't see? Thanks, Barry
  11. Having just done an oil change on my Mk3 GT6 I found a rocker shaft screw attached to the magnetic drain plug (I think the part no is 104854). I'm hoping it hasn't done any lasting damage! Is there any way of ensuring the screw doesn't work loose again? Is there a fixative that can withstand oil and high temperatures which I can use to keep it in place ? Thanks, Barry
  12. I would re-iterate that you should buy the best quality ball joints and track rod ends - I fitted mine two years ago and the rubber has perished on all of them . Less than 2000 miles..stored in the dry etc etc. Mine were part of a large order of suspension parts from a well known supplier...now I've just ordered replacements from the club shop. Barry
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