SeanG

Hi Richard, i used to have a 1088 but that was with the original short tensioner, it s now broken and i could only find the new tensioner which is much longer. Hopefully a shorter one will work. Mechanical fuel pump, i have the regulator because the pressure was too high and had fuel leaking from carbs,

Shorter belt !

Thanks for help, tensioner either way, max distance is the same, I have ordered a shorter one... will see tx

Hi Everyone, didn't worked on the project for a bit. Almost done... I was noticing today when running the engine that the fan belt was a bit "jumping" when idling. I took for granted it was the right belt etc but checked the movement and I have 2inch vertical movement from the middle of the longest point. Haynes says 3/4in max !!! I got both the tensioner and the belt from Canleys, it's a GT6 MK3 with regular alternator. Is there something that I m missing ? Belt is A5115 - AVX10X 1150LA Thanks very much for your help ! S

thx derekskill ! i didn t knew this shop, found them on ebay, very cheap ! feel the same as you, the parts + postage is pretty much the same as a new one (rebuilt)....

what do you think : buy this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-PUMP-SPACER-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-TR7-MG-MIDGET-1500-UKC8523-/171287982146?hash=item27e18f3042:g:jKAAAOxyni9TFHkM or get another fuel pump and hopefully spring won t be as strong....

good idea, i ll try it tomorrow, otherwise what version would you recommend ?

Thx Pete, so ok the return spring is light.... good trick to sand paper pencil thx

yeah that s after cleaning.... i know no grease, its looking ok tho right ?

Hi again, got this fuel pump from rimmer bros : 213577 After i fitted new fuel lines on rebuilt carbs and new fuel pump, have leaking problems. First it was the fuel pump to carb leaking, i re screwed the line properly and it stopped, then it leaked from the carb float, changed the gasket and it stopped. now it s leaking from the choke assembly on the side of the carb.... I was just thinking, is it possible that this pump puts too much pressure ? any one of you have this problem ? I saw some fuel pressure regulator but they are expensive....

Hi guys, recently I had problems with my starter motor : Sometimes the starter didn t catch the flywheel Sometimes it would rotate slowly (on full battery) Eventually car would start and the starter motor wouldn't disengage So I changed the solenoid as i found one new for £7, and now the car starts but starter motor doesn t disengage anymore, ever... I took the starter out (much easier than I thought) cleaned it with petrol (see attachment) and put it back. The only thing I notice when out, is the main spring was very lazy... Also you can see attachment of my solenoid, this was the old one, but connection are same on the new one. Do you think my motor is too tired ? there are reconditioned one for £40 , is it worth buying and changing brush, springs, bendix or just buy a reconditioned ? Will adding extra space between the flywheel and the motor will help it disengage easier ? thx a lot

Solved ! It was vacuum leak, I have blocked both carbs breather and inlet manifold, just let breather on rocker cover and the car started ! Idle strangely but works, I m gonna received the T piece etc to plug both carbs breather to rocker cover. Do I need a PCV valve ? thx all

**** UPDATDE **** So ! regarding ignition, is was good on TDC, then i ran out of idea so went 180 out (just in case:-) ) but now when i put fresh fuel into the plug hole, the car start for 10sec then dies. There is fuel on top of the jet, fuel pump works (i tried with fuel line unplugged at the carbs) but plugs are still dry. SO I think it s safe to assume I have a vacuum problem right ? Also I have put back everything the way it was when i first got the car, it was running (rough) but still..

Hi casper, yeah when i m at tdc on 1, if i rotate engine slowly, both valves are rocking after tdc, wheras valves on no6 don t move. Corrcect ? ????

so i double check ignition, gap is ok, and the cap is pointing cylinder 1 at TDC on 1 (when valve 1&2 are rocking) re checked with a spark tester and still get a spark ! the plugs are still dry... they smell petrol but ther not dripping, could it be there is no vaccum ? i opened the float chamber and petrol leaks, it s full, so doesn t matter if it s a fuel problem pump right ? as long as it s full . thx for help, very strange....

Hello everyone, I finally got everything ready for a test ! but unfortunately it s not starting.... I have test a spark and there is one ! I have also checked i m not 180 out by checking TDC without rocker cover. so all good for ignition. there is fuel in float chamber and when i try to start the car the plugs smell petrol, they are not fully wet but just smell petrol. also when i put carb cleaner inside the mouth and try to start, the car almost fires then die. so my theory is : 1- the fuel in my car being 9month old is not burned, but then again 9month is ok right ? 2- i have a problem with needle what do you guys think ? thx a lot Sean

thanks for message, have you done it yourself ? Is it a rough job ? also, can you buy those 1/2 bsp on plumber shop ? it's 80% cheaper than the "car" ones. ta

Hi everyone ! this morning I "removed" the banjo bolt from inlet manifold. I swear I thought I would be able to unscrew mine without braking it. It had white vinegar inside for 10 days, 4days of Wd40 bath and 4days of 50% acetone 50% trans fluid mix.... People were right, there is no way one can remove this bolt, anyway now i need to fix it. Anyone know what size to tap it ? thx and merry christmas everyone

Thanks Pete, that's interesting, any particular reason for that ? So not looking forward to this job, I can feel neck pain already :-)

Ho and btw, does anyone know if there is dual clip that would both fuel and brake pipe ? thx a lot

Yeah, been using a LOT Rimmer, than moved to jamespadock, and now i m on canleys :-) I love their old school diagram parts shop.

Thx for your message, got the Automec fuel kit from rimmer, I ll check if it s R9.... Found a brake pipe kit for £30 on canleys, so won t bother do it myself... I ll let you know if all goes well.... Thx a lot !!

Good evening everyone, my exhaust was eaten by rodent, so for now it's all off. I m installing a 6-3-1 and twin sport exhaust instead of stock. while i m there (bad start i know) i m gonna change the old stiff plastic fuel line for copper kit and was wondering about the brake pipe too ! the front pipes are so old and clogged that one broke when trying to remove the brake lines. my project is in really bad shape, and now that all exhaust system is off, I just thought I could do the brakes pipe.... so question is : - Can you change all the pipes with the body on ? Do I need to remove anything ? - Is it a painful job ? Are all kit good ? thx for help

Here is a picture of the oil pan, looks like a 2L one right ? Yeah head was recessed and my head gasket has a bit that is sticking out at the back. It s a 1973 very late model. Who knows what the previous owner did... So you guys guess it s a 2L right ?

I have dome piston 100% as i have changed head gasket. The car is registred as a 2.5 on the number plate, the previous owner (young mechanic student) told me it is a 2.5 conversion while engine rebuilt. So it s bit confusing. Is there any easyway to check ? Thx