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A TR7 16V

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Everything posted by A TR7 16V

  1. I still want to know if swapping the master cylinder and keeping the push rod will move the pedal up or down. And the holes in mine are a bit worn - the 8mm clevis I think got sold is only tight in the pedal arm, and quite slack in the fork. I do see that replacement rods with forks are available, but I think I want a slightly bigger bore. However, I'm still worrying a bit that 3/4" is a more bigger than I want. I got a reply on the 5/16 UNF thread fork to fit the LR 0.75" cylinder, and it takes and comes with an 8mm clevis pin. I really do like the look of the pin clip it comes with. I feel like the R clip on the one I got to replace the one in the car sticks out too far and might split the boot in time. Graham
  2. Think that this one might be better: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224547870126?hash=item34481895ae:g:g28AAOSwWl5dwqu- I'll ask them what the pin diameter is, as that's not given in the listing. Graham
  3. But then I lose the ability to adjust the pedal height. Will it naturally come to the same height with the same rod in a different cylinder? Graham
  4. The last two posts seem to suggest that increasing the pedal force by 1.44 won't be that big an issue. In which case the next problem is to find a fork with a 5/16th thread? Lots of M8 x 1.25mm pitch. Don't suppose anybody knows the thread on a Land Rover S2/3 handbrake link? Graham
  5. While I've got some clutch movement back by replacing the pedal, bracket, and clevis pin, I would like to see If I can get just a little more. So I was thinking of a bigger bore master cylinder then the 5/8th (0.625)" one I have in, which will get more slave travel for the same pedal movement, but stiffen the pedal a bit. Pete Lewis suggested a 3/4"e LR one as a cheap option, which they are. But they don't have the fork for a clevis pin. They aren't expensive either, but I don't know what thread is on the piston pushrod on the LR cylinder. The good thing there is there's an opportunity to use the thread to set the position of the pedal. But I recon that 3/4" bore will take 1.44 times the force to move the pedal, but, obviously, 1.44 times as much clutch movement. 1.44 times sounds a fair bit more force, but it's leg work and the pedal is light enough now. So I wondered about a 0.7" bore TR cylinder, which would only take about 1.25 times the force and still give me a bit more clutch movement. So, has anybody done any such thing and/or got opinions? And if anyone's used the LR one, can they give details of the clevis pin fork I would need and how much heavier the pedal becomes? Graham
  6. Just to check the size of thread on the outlet of the master cylinder is 3/8 unf? Graham
  7. I wondered if it would need some heat, but yours just pressed out. I'll give a try, though my vices are more modest than "Record" ones. Graham
  8. How'd you unseize the pins from the arms? Graham
  9. If you mean STC500100, I see those really are cheap. Will need a fork fitting I see, But even so, that's still cheap. Wonder how much control I get in setting where the pedal sits and goes down to. Is it likely to need a stop on the pedal, or is whatever limits the travel in the cylinder strong enough? Graham
  10. The issue with welding washers on both sides is the one, I think it was Colin, identified of the pin turning in the bracket rather than or as well as the pedal turning on the pin. But maybe shaketights would do instead of a welded nut and jam nut. Anyway, the replacement is in now, and I can confirm that, in the 1970 13/60 I have, the brake pedal and it's bracket fit where the clutch pedal should go. The old set was giving about 5mm of play at the pedal from the wear in the hole for the pin, which is seized in the bush, and another 8 or 10 from the assembly at the joint between the pedal arm and the master cylinder piston rod - a lot of that just from the clevis pin itself (is it meant to wear sacrificially?). The new 5/16th clevis was very tight in the replacement arm, if not so tight in the fork on the end of the rod. So I think the loss in pedal movement due to slack in the mechanism is less than a 1/4 of what is was. It's enough that, for now, there's no grunting going into reverse. BTW, has anyone fitted a bigger bore master cylinder, and are there any risks in pushing the slave too far? Graham Graham
  11. I'm still looking at how I might fix the worn clutch pedal bracket that's in the car. The replacement bracket and pedal arm do take a 5/8 bolt through the pivot - the unthreaded section of the 5/8ths bolt I have is the same diameter as the pin. i.e. 0.616" not the 0.625" I expected. In which case, a 3-1/4 DIN 931 bolt should have an unthreaded section the right length and can be shortened to the right length of exposed thread. It should have 1.5" of thread and 1.75" unthreaded, but the one I have is threaded 1.8" (like a DIN 931 over 6" should be) and only has 1.4" of unthreaded (so is too short). So a proper DIN 931 3.25" or a 3.5" threaded 1.8" like the one I've got at the moment. I don't think it will matter that the 3-1/4 bolt I have will have 3 or 4 mm of thread inside the bush. So I'm thinking of getting a 5/8ths thin nut welded on one outside of the bracket, and a 5/8ths washer or maybe 2 welded on the other outside. The bolt can then be screwed in so it's tight on the welded on washer, but doesn't nip the pedal; then locked with a second thin nut jammed on. I am wondering if that needs a shaketight washer between them. If the bush in the pedal arm is no good after being seized on the pin, that will need replacing. But at least they are available.
  12. I went to see if I can swap the clutch pedal and bracket, cos it looks a fairly easy job. I checked that all the screws will undo, and they will. However, the split pin was so solid in the clevis pin on the end of the master cylinder piston rod, the head came off first. There's enough of it left it won't fall out, but I've got to buy something to at least replace it. Does anyone have an opinion on the differences between these master cylinder rubber boots: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371709323800?fits=Model%3AHerald&hash=item568b9a2a18:g:-6gAAOSwzYtglAuh and these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254854572363?epid=1816907236&hash=item3b5684294b:g:ut0AAOSwR5BbBUWJ ? Graham
  13. These 13/60 ones seem exactly the same, except for the bracketry for the brake light switch. That may stop the pedal coming up fully when used for the clutch. But thinking about it, the clutch pedal in the car is very near the same height as the brake when it's on the switch. And with no switch, the pedal would, if free from the master cylinder, come up well over an inch higher than the normal position, i.e. above where the clutch pedal stops now. So I assume there's some stop on the master cylinder or that end of the linkage. I can see how to fix the wear in hole in the clutch pedal for the master cylinder clevis pin - just use a bigger one. But fixing the wear in the holes in the bracket for the pivot pin has me a bit flummoxed. And that set would want a new bush and pin to make it tight as well. Graham
  14. I just looked more closely at the hole for the clevis pin to the clutch piston rod fork on this set I just got, and that's got quite a lot of wear. It's ovalled by about 1mm orthogonal to the length of the pedal, which would be about 5mm play at the centre of the pedal pad. So that would need the set drilling out and a bigger pin/bolt fitting. Whereas the same hole on the brake pedal looks fine.
  15. No flats on either pedal pin and all holes in brackets are round. Is it different with diff models? It might be sledging hammering an egg, but I suppose I could drill a small hole in the bracket, replace the pin with a bolt of the right length shank and a nylock, and use a lock washer with two tabs, one in the hole and one on a flat of the bolt head. Depends if there's a standard bolt size the same as the pin or if I would need to get a bush made special. Graham
  16. I will look for this hole for the fulcrum pivot pin if it stops raining long enough. Any body got a picture of where it is in a Herald? On the issue of the pedals, I got the other set, and the hole for the pin in this clutch pedal bracket is a little bit worn - the pin is rotating in that hole, not the pedal rotating on the pin. That's even though the pin's not ceased or even stiff in the pedal bearing. Whereas, the brake pedal is turning on its pin, and the hole in the bracket don't seem to be worn. So, I was thinking of putting the replacement in and looking at fixing the one that comes out. I guess I can see if there's much difference while I'm doing that. But supposing there's not, is there any problem in putting this brake pedal and bracket in, instead of the clutch one - other than I would need to take the switch off and maybe bend it's bracket out the way a bit to let the pedal come up fully? Also why are the holes in the bracket for the spring in different positions on each side? I'm pretty sure the problem with the one in the car being slack with the pedal full up is that it's in the RH hole and should be in the LH one. I doubt that makes any difference to how well the clutch disengages though. But maybe another rattle got rid of. Graham
  17. Well I realized you meant the fulcrum pivot pin for the clutch fork and its tolerance ring. But I can't do much about them easily and right away. Whereas I can easily look at the pedal and its bits n bobs to see if I can at least postpone the car going off the road to have the box off, etc. I'm sure somebody (Colin I think) recently pointed out the axiom that you should always look at the things that are easy to fix first, without too much consideration of the probability they are the problem - but put it a bit more pithily. Graham
  18. Is that the holes in the fork or the hole in the top end of the pedal arm that wears, or both? I've ordered a set of used arms, springs, brackets, and bolts, that were listed as being in very good condition. No clevis pins though. I'll have a look at the pins and holes I've got when I'm ready to replace the clutch set.
  19. Slotting the bracket holes would help. But I'd still want a spare to work on. I see the pedal pin bushes are available on eBay. What wears most though, that bush, the pin, or the bracket? Graham
  20. I've had a bit more of a look at the clutch pedal and there seems to be a lot of slack in it when it's up. So much so that the spring is well off being tight at that point. Is that normal? It looks like this is a combination of slack in the hinge pin on the pedal and in the junction at the end of the master cylinder piston rod. I reckon that if I take out that slack, I'll get the clutch to disengage with the rubber on the pedal at a point something like 1 cm before where it does now. It don't sound a lot, but maybe it will be enough to make it all feel better. However, I don't want to risk taking that apart while I need the car. So I'll want another pedal at least, and maybe the bracket the hinge pin is in, to play with for that. Graham
  21. I looked at the pedal pivot as the easiest thing to fix. Couldn't see a problem there, but I did find the carpet had slipped down the inside of the bulkhead and folded up along the top of the ridge just under the pedal. I think that was stopping it a bit early - perhaps against that ridge so more than just 2 carpet thicknesses early. So I pushed it up and made sure the pedal goes into the recess above that ridge properly. That seems to have at least improved things. I may have to look at gluing it up against the bulkhead if this really is the cause and repeats again. While I'm still not ecstatic about how far down the pedal has to go down to properly disengage the clutch, and the need to push it so that it's further than flush with the ridge between the floor and bulkhead; now there's no sign of it dragging and slowing the starter when that's operated in gear. I've only checked it with everything cold, and I did notice the problem when everything was well warmed through. So I'll see if there's a thermal aspect to the issue next time I've chance. Thanks for the advice. Graham
  22. The clutch on my 13/60 seems not to be disengaging properly and perhaps getting slowly worse. I can still get all the gears, including reverse, but that can be a little crunchy. It's most noticeable that with the pedal all the way down and starting with it in gear, like when it stalls at a junction, etc., the starter motor is clearly under more load than when it's out of gear - pretty sure there's no extra load on the starter with the clutch down not in gear, cos I keep forgetting I'm not starting the wife's Chrysler, which needs that. So what's the likely problem, wear in the actuation mechanism somewhere or hydraulics? I did check it's all topped up in the reservoir on the master. Pumping the clutch seems to have no obvious effect. Graham
  23. Filler? I just knocked the dents out and painted thickly over them. I don't see any thickness of unadulterated filler being much use on the bit of bonnet over the engine, what with the differential expansion an'all. I reckon that's why the PO's efforts blew - it were near 1/4" thick in parts. I find Hammerite Smooth still works fine, either as a spray or brush on. I've got a set of silver painted wire wheels that are brushed into the nipples and rim holes and sprayed over. They've bin 'seasoning' for a year in the back garden, with the splines filled with grease and the spinners laid on top, with no problem other than me finding the motivation to get some tires swapped onto them. The furniture on all the gates round the house and garden are painted with black smoothrite. I've also bin mixing nearly Damson and touching up the herald with it for about 4 years now, and it's doing fine apart from every time's a slightly different shade. I've bin doing the Doly with it since I got it, so long ago I can't remember when that was. It was better when it were in Inca, which some idiot had repainted it, cos it was near enough the Smoothrite yellow out the tin. The mimosa it is now needs some blue and it's still not quite right. Think it needs a drip of beige too. I also much like the No1 primer from Nobel. BTW, whoever had repainted the Doly in Inca had missed enough Mimosa to prove it was an original first 2000ish car (or a shell from a later c. 1977 Australian export). And there are enough proofs underneath of it being from before the 1976 update too. Like the rear antiroll bar and the way the front overriders fitted. But they added chrome door straikes and seats with head rests in re-building it, and I had to rebuild the front on a later lower panel and front bumper after an accident. Graham
  24. I've had a bit of a look at the front bracket between the frame and the bonnet, and the right hand one has been "repaired". I'll look better later, but now I'm distracted cos a great lump of PO's filler fell out the bonnet while I was mucking, and I need to mix more nearly Damson in Hammerite Smooth, find an old brush I don't like, and paint the area of rust that's appeared on the bonnet top. You can tell these Heralds are made of better stuff than the TR7s. There's obvs been water under the filler for years, and the steel's not gone through. Graham
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