ChrisJB

Hi, for the GT6 Mk3 there is a page in the ST Part List that covers the tool kit that comes with the car, not sure about earlier cars. Mine (a late MKIII) has most of it in a large red thick plastic "bag" that I think is original. As to what you need to carry with you everyone will have their own ideas. I carry a reasonable set of spanners, screwdrivers, pliers etc. Cable ties, insulating tape and duct tape also useful. A full set of bulbs and ignition spares including points and condensor in case the electronic ignition module fails, various lengths and sizes of wire and some crimp spade/ bullet connectors. You can crimp these with pliers as a get you home bodge but they will need to be replaced. Eseentially I fill the well in the spare wheel with tools and bits and then decide that's enough. Sod's law dictates that no matter how many spares and tools you carry somthing will fail that you are not prepared for or cannot fix! At least you can show she who must be obeyed that you tried. Chris

Joanna, I used Doug Taylor to rechrome my GT6 mk3 bumpers and quarterlights in 2018. Pleased with the results, finish very good apart from one small area on the rear bumber that had a rust pit they couldn't fill. The front bumper was in a similar confition to yours. Cost then was £280 + VAT for the front bumper.

Hi, Welcome to the forum and enjoy the GT6! I have a pair of spare quarterlight assemblies- I have sent you a personal message with details. Chris

Hi, A few further thoughts- looking at your photo of the Dolomite switch is the extra terminal at the top of the switch connected to the thick brown wire under the heat shrink? In this case it may be irrelevant if you change the switch. Check the operation of your current switch, as you turn the key note down which terminals are connected to the battery (this should be the brown wire). The standard four terminals should connected as follows for a UK car (original loom colours and a Mk3): Terminal 1: White/ Red wire- Starter Solenoid Terminal 2: Brown- feed wire from battery Terminal 3: White wire(s)- Ignition and other circuits fed from the ignition. Terminal 4: White/ pink wire- Auxiliary circuits, Heater fan and radio if installed. This is the connection for the radio- on the original wiring loom if I remember correctly there is a spare bullet connector in the loom that can be used for the radio if not fitted. The attached picture shows the operation of the 4 position switch. Chris

My GT6 Mk3 has four connections, numbered 1,2,3,5 on the Lucas switch (Pt no 1575A) as per the photo of the switch module in the original post. The Haynes Manual wiring diagram also shows a 5th connector numbered 6 that controls an anti run-on valve, this is not fitted to UK cars? The diagram states "Not all items are fitted to all models". The Haynes wiring diagram also shows connectors 4 and 2 on the switch connected together on the switch confirming Doug's post.

Hi, photos below of the vent tube inside the boot and the exit underneath the boot floor. Although the car was restored in 1990 I think that the routing is original as it is fixed by bent metal tags at the back of the wheel arch and has been oversprayed. The exit hole is the large one at the front right, under the tank location. Sorry I haven't any measurement for the hole, the car is stored in my mum's garage. The end of the vent pipe is out of shot, it attaches to a right angled rubber connector that goes through the grommet and the larger diameter rubber outlet piece pushes on from underneath.

On my GT6 Mk III I used a similar approach to that used by Chris above. The tricky bit is getting the quarterlight and drop glass adjustment correct- I found that you needed to get the window to go up as far as possible to get a decent seal on the door seal at the top. This was very tricky in the case of my car due to a lack of clearance between the rear top corner of the glass and the body work and also the top of the quarterlight and the A pillar. I used many layers of masking tape to protect the new paintwork while getting the adjustment to the best compromise position! The other issue with the door rebuild is retaining the front of the outer seal below the quarterlight. Essentially you can't get the clips in place if the quarterlight is in place when the seals are fitted. There have been a couple of posts and discussions on this in the past with possible solutions but I don't immediately have the references. I used black silicon under the seal to retain it which worked OK until I fitted the extra seals on the A post (Pt no 612260) to see if they cut down wind noise. These cause the quarterlight to flex when the door is closed which has the result that the front of the outer window seal works its way out of the gap between the door and the quarterlight after 5 or 6 door open close cycles. Now building myself up to taking of the door card and liner and seeing if you can remove (or at least lift) the quarterlight assembly with the door glass in place to see if I can get some clips on the front of the weather seal. This of course means that I will have to go through the process of getting the quarterlight adjustmet correct again although I hope marking bolt positions will help☹️

Out of interest COH Baines have a door seal that looks similar to the section shown above. https://coh-baines.co.uk/product/srs-071-dual-hardness-epdm-sponge-door-seal/ Stated as being a Triumph TR 4 Door Seal, Triumph 2000/2500, Jaguar seal ( O.E. part number BD20500/4). I haven't got the seals on my GT6 MkIII so can't check the dimensions.

Another place to get Pirelli webbing is Woolies https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/, their prices look competitive with Ebay although there is P&P to consider. Woolies are a pretty good one stop shop for the various bits and pieces needed for trimming. Estimating the length required is tricky particularly as the webbing is very stiff and it is difficult to get a tight bend around the clip when not fully tensioned. As with Badwolf I removed the staples from the old strips allowing them to be flatterned out and then adjusted the new length from this (i.e. how much they needed to be shortened based on the estimated stretch due to age). If you do it this way you need to ensure that the overlap at each end is the same as the old strip. A small hole punch is useful to make the holes for the staples. Broken clips can be remade from steel coat hanger wire- it seems strong enough to retain the shape under tension.

If it is like a TR6 seat base the side pieces are glued to the base after the centre of the seat base cover has been fitted. The centre of the TR seat base cover has 3 fabric flaps that are glued down onto the seat base foam to keep the centre of the cover flat. The side (and front for TR6) bolster foams are then glued onto the base sandwiching the fabric and the sides of the cover tensioned over them. Fairly straight forward to rebuild but what it effectively means is that you can't change the foam or cover independently as it is almost impossible to separate the joint between the foam pieces and the cloth flaps cleanly to allow reuse. The flaps are needed to hold the base of the cover down to the foam, although a work around may be to glue the centre of the cover to the base foam after the side foams have been glued in place. This is the way the late GT6 seats are constructed with a single piece base foam. You should be able to see the construction of the seat base by unclipping the cover around the sides. Hopefully someone who has rebuilt Vitesse seats will respond with better model specific information.

The photos below show the two pipes and routing on my MkIII when it was being taken apart for respray. From memory there was a larger pipe that ran down from the bottom of the fuel filler and out through the rear valance next to the front bolt of the bumper mount (fuel drain). The smaller diameter pipe (air vent) ran from the spigot on the fuel filler up behind the rear quarter trim, down by the rear lights around the fuel tank. It is secured to the floor by bent metal clips around the front of the fuel tank and then exits through the large hole towards the centre of the boot floor. It goes out through a right angled rubber fitting through a grommet into a short length of larger diameter pipe that had its end cut at an angle as per the Canley parts diagram.

The harness tape is non adhesive, you secure the start and wrap it around the cables in a spiral ensuring a decent overlap especially where bends wil occur and then secure the end. The ends can be secured by wrapping normal insulating tape around it or possibly using heat shrink. If you want to know why harness tape isn't adhesive try bending a thick loom that you have wrapped in insulating tape or a similar adhesive tape🙃 It looks original but can be quite time consuming to get a decent looking loom.

Bent nose pliers with rounded ends (large internal circlip pliers) can work as a tool for undoing the washer switch bezel if you are very careful and you have some. The problem is that you can scratch the surface of the dash if the ends of the pliers rub against it. Pliers with "D" shaped ends might also do damage to the bezel. I can't remember if the switch will rotate in the dash, it might be keyed so it can't turn.

Another recommendation for Park Lane Classics- leather covers and foam kits for a GT6 Mk3 but as others have said you need to be patient with the delivery. They were relatively easy to fit with clear instructions. Just for interest the leather covers and foams were about the same price as a set of TR6 vinyl covers which are the next lockdown job. Not a totally fair comparison however as the TR covers are significantly more complex and these do have a close match to the original vinyl pattern.

That's the one Moss are selling- probably options to get it cheaper then. Picture below of it on a TR6.