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Everything posted by ChrisJB

  1. Hi, A few further thoughts- looking at your photo of the Dolomite switch is the extra terminal at the top of the switch connected to the thick brown wire under the heat shrink? In this case it may be irrelevant if you change the switch. Check the operation of your current switch, as you turn the key note down which terminals are connected to the battery (this should be the brown wire). The standard four terminals should connected as follows for a UK car (original loom colours and a Mk3): Terminal 1: White/ Red wire- Starter Solenoid Terminal 2: Brown- feed wire from battery Terminal 3: White wire(s)- Ignition and other circuits fed from the ignition. Terminal 4: White/ pink wire- Auxiliary circuits, Heater fan and radio if installed. This is the connection for the radio- on the original wiring loom if I remember correctly there is a spare bullet connector in the loom that can be used for the radio if not fitted. The attached picture shows the operation of the 4 position switch. Chris
  2. My GT6 Mk3 has four connections, numbered 1,2,3,5 on the Lucas switch (Pt no 1575A) as per the photo of the switch module in the original post. The Haynes Manual wiring diagram also shows a 5th connector numbered 6 that controls an anti run-on valve, this is not fitted to UK cars? The diagram states "Not all items are fitted to all models". The Haynes wiring diagram also shows connectors 4 and 2 on the switch connected together on the switch confirming Doug's post.
  3. Hi, photos below of the vent tube inside the boot and the exit underneath the boot floor. Although the car was restored in 1990 I think that the routing is original as it is fixed by bent metal tags at the back of the wheel arch and has been oversprayed. The exit hole is the large one at the front right, under the tank location. Sorry I haven't any measurement for the hole, the car is stored in my mum's garage. The end of the vent pipe is out of shot, it attaches to a right angled rubber connector that goes through the grommet and the larger diameter rubber outlet piece pushes on from underneath.
  4. On my GT6 Mk III I used a similar approach to that used by Chris above. The tricky bit is getting the quarterlight and drop glass adjustment correct- I found that you needed to get the window to go up as far as possible to get a decent seal on the door seal at the top. This was very tricky in the case of my car due to a lack of clearance between the rear top corner of the glass and the body work and also the top of the quarterlight and the A pillar. I used many layers of masking tape to protect the new paintwork while getting the adjustment to the best compromise position! The other issue with the door rebuild is retaining the front of the outer seal below the quarterlight. Essentially you can't get the clips in place if the quarterlight is in place when the seals are fitted. There have been a couple of posts and discussions on this in the past with possible solutions but I don't immediately have the references. I used black silicon under the seal to retain it which worked OK until I fitted the extra seals on the A post (Pt no 612260) to see if they cut down wind noise. These cause the quarterlight to flex when the door is closed which has the result that the front of the outer window seal works its way out of the gap between the door and the quarterlight after 5 or 6 door open close cycles. Now building myself up to taking of the door card and liner and seeing if you can remove (or at least lift) the quarterlight assembly with the door glass in place to see if I can get some clips on the front of the weather seal. This of course means that I will have to go through the process of getting the quarterlight adjustmet correct again although I hope marking bolt positions will help☹️
  5. Out of interest COH Baines have a door seal that looks similar to the section shown above. https://coh-baines.co.uk/product/srs-071-dual-hardness-epdm-sponge-door-seal/ Stated as being a Triumph TR 4 Door Seal, Triumph 2000/2500, Jaguar seal ( O.E. part number BD20500/4). I haven't got the seals on my GT6 MkIII so can't check the dimensions.
  6. Another place to get Pirelli webbing is Woolies https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/, their prices look competitive with Ebay although there is P&P to consider. Woolies are a pretty good one stop shop for the various bits and pieces needed for trimming. Estimating the length required is tricky particularly as the webbing is very stiff and it is difficult to get a tight bend around the clip when not fully tensioned. As with Badwolf I removed the staples from the old strips allowing them to be flatterned out and then adjusted the new length from this (i.e. how much they needed to be shortened based on the estimated stretch due to age). If you do it this way you need to ensure that the overlap at each end is the same as the old strip. A small hole punch is useful to make the holes for the staples. Broken clips can be remade from steel coat hanger wire- it seems strong enough to retain the shape under tension.
  7. If it is like a TR6 seat base the side pieces are glued to the base after the centre of the seat base cover has been fitted. The centre of the TR seat base cover has 3 fabric flaps that are glued down onto the seat base foam to keep the centre of the cover flat. The side (and front for TR6) bolster foams are then glued onto the base sandwiching the fabric and the sides of the cover tensioned over them. Fairly straight forward to rebuild but what it effectively means is that you can't change the foam or cover independently as it is almost impossible to separate the joint between the foam pieces and the cloth flaps cleanly to allow reuse. The flaps are needed to hold the base of the cover down to the foam, although a work around may be to glue the centre of the cover to the base foam after the side foams have been glued in place. This is the way the late GT6 seats are constructed with a single piece base foam. You should be able to see the construction of the seat base by unclipping the cover around the sides. Hopefully someone who has rebuilt Vitesse seats will respond with better model specific information.
  8. The photos below show the two pipes and routing on my MkIII when it was being taken apart for respray. From memory there was a larger pipe that ran down from the bottom of the fuel filler and out through the rear valance next to the front bolt of the bumper mount (fuel drain). The smaller diameter pipe (air vent) ran from the spigot on the fuel filler up behind the rear quarter trim, down by the rear lights around the fuel tank. It is secured to the floor by bent metal clips around the front of the fuel tank and then exits through the large hole towards the centre of the boot floor. It goes out through a right angled rubber fitting through a grommet into a short length of larger diameter pipe that had its end cut at an angle as per the Canley parts diagram.
  9. The harness tape is non adhesive, you secure the start and wrap it around the cables in a spiral ensuring a decent overlap especially where bends wil occur and then secure the end. The ends can be secured by wrapping normal insulating tape around it or possibly using heat shrink. If you want to know why harness tape isn't adhesive try bending a thick loom that you have wrapped in insulating tape or a similar adhesive tape🙃 It looks original but can be quite time consuming to get a decent looking loom.
  10. Bent nose pliers with rounded ends (large internal circlip pliers) can work as a tool for undoing the washer switch bezel if you are very careful and you have some. The problem is that you can scratch the surface of the dash if the ends of the pliers rub against it. Pliers with "D" shaped ends might also do damage to the bezel. I can't remember if the switch will rotate in the dash, it might be keyed so it can't turn.
  11. Another recommendation for Park Lane Classics- leather covers and foam kits for a GT6 Mk3 but as others have said you need to be patient with the delivery. They were relatively easy to fit with clear instructions. Just for interest the leather covers and foams were about the same price as a set of TR6 vinyl covers which are the next lockdown job. Not a totally fair comparison however as the TR covers are significantly more complex and these do have a close match to the original vinyl pattern.
  12. That's the one Moss are selling- probably options to get it cheaper then. Picture below of it on a TR6.
  13. ChrisJB


    Colin, that is the one. Definately £3.99 this week if you can get them but I guess there may be regional variations. Probably went on sale last Sunday.
  14. ChrisJB


    Not a tool but LIDL have car boot bags in this week for £3.99 that fit nicely in the floor pan behind the seats in a GT6 MKIII. Quite substantial construction for the price and much tidier than a box of tools and spares sliding around in the rear load bay. Have handles as well so they can easily be transfered to other cars.
  15. Moss Europe do a chrome gaiter finishing kit, part no GAC9540 that fitted the gaiter on my GT6 Mk3. Its a bit pricey at £19.60 though and quite chunky. The hole diameter is slightly larger than the gear stick so you also get a vibration buzz unless you do something about the metal to metal contact e.g. a bit of black insulating tape around the gear lever below the top of the chrome ferrule.
  16. For further information, on my Mk111 I fitted the Securon 514/15 which are the three point automatic belts, these have the reel mounted on top of the wheel arch where the static belt mounts as there was no lower mounting point at the bottom of the wheel arch. These were a replacement for the previous set of automatic belts previously fitted to the car and were the belts recommended by one of the usual suspects, I can't remember which one. The buckles came with a 15cm metal strap that would have to have been bolted to the side of the transmission tunnel rather than the floor. The right angled mounting plate from the original Britax buckles was also needed to provide the correct alignment for the buckle strap.
  17. Hi, You are probably right about the new screens. I fitted (well I got mobile fitters in to fit it) a new screen on my GT6 Mk3 after I broke the old one taking it out for the body repairs and respray. The fitters took three visits to fit it and the screen trim, they said they couldn't get it to fit properly at the top due to the curvature and size, they said this was a common problem with the replacement screens as opposed to OEM. Same screen as the Spitfire Mk4/ 1500? The screen is marked Lamishield and came from Canleys, I suspect that the other usual suppliers supply the same. It looks as though Pilkington can supply replacement screens that should be to the OEM pattern- https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/makes-and-models/triumph. You will probably pay for quality though and have to see if they can supply outside the UK! With hindsight I should have thought about going to them in the first place.
  18. The plugs usually used on leads to connect to multimeters and other electronic test equipment (at least when I was actively working with electronics in the 1970s!) are 4mm Banana Plugs. Don't ask me how they got the name- possibly due to the curved spring used to ensure a firm connection. The other end of meter leads usually terminates in a probe, or possibly a 4mm plug with a proble fitted on to it. If you want to make your own leads the plugs are available from the usual internet sources, search for nickel banana plugs. You don't need to pay the high prices for the gold plated speaker plugs, the normal equipment connection plugs are nickel plated brass and if you don't have a soldering iron they are available with screw connections. Most crocodile clips will fit onto a 4mm plug, try and use insulated clips! I don't think that chinese sourcing will be much of an issue given the amount of use test leads are likely to get. I find it useful to have extra test leads terminated with male and female Lucar spade connectors as well as crocodile clips, this definitely reduces the need for three hands. Also a long lead 3-4m can be very useful for checking cable continuity from one end of the car to the other, or running power to test components in situ. Standard car wiring wire can be used for test leads, they usually use a more flexible wire but survivability in garage use would probably be helped by heavier wire at the expense of a bit of flexibility.
  19. To confirm previous postings, coincidentally I received a pair of late late GT6 MkIII rear brake cylinders from James Paddock this morning, JP part number JPG400 (2xGWC1121). These are 0.75" internal diameter (3/4") and have the correct end fitting for the auto adjuster, they are unmarked as to manufacturer and unpackaged. My car (late swing spring MKIII) has identical cylinders fitted so non standard. They have been on the car since probably 2009 or possibly before (fitted by PO) and the braking has always seemed OK, if anything the rear wheels lock before the front if provoked. There are several postings on other topics covering drilling access holes in the brake drums to allow the auto adjuster cog to be turned by a small screwdriver to adjust the brakes with the drum on. Note that the adjuster arm needs to be pushed or pulled away from the cog to allow it to rotate freely for adjustment. My adjusters are in pretty good condition and hopefully can be made working with new handbrake springs and judicious filing.
  20. Another one for the learn something new every day pile! I hadn't realised I was missing those- probably why the seams are still in very good nick.
  21. If you need a bit more justification for fitting relays I measured voltages on my TR6 before and after fitting them. Prior to fitting the relays I was loosing over 2V in the wiring from the battery via the switches to the headlights i.e with 14V at the battery I was only getting 12V at the lights. After fitting relays and heavier feed wiring the voltage drop was reduced to 0.3V i.e. 13.7V at the lights. I didn't bother checking voltages on my GT6 when I fitted relays but the headlamps are noticeably brighter afterwards. On both cars the headlights are halogen replacements with standard bulbs.
  22. Chris, I had the bumpers and quarterlight frames for my GT6 MkIII rechromed last year by Doug Taylor nr Weston-super-Mare, they did a good job. Total cost was around £900 of which around £720 was the bumpers. I was fortunate in that I had a selection of decent spare door handles and filler caps come with the car so didn't have to worry about the mazak. I will have a look at my spare door handles and see how good they are.
  23. The TSSC Club shop supply "Spitfire/ GT6 Wheel Silver- 400ml of cellulose acurately matched to the original factory finish on the later Spitfire and GT6 steel wheels, finish of with the clear lacquer." I used this on a TR6 wheel, it was pretty close in colour to the other wheels on the TR and on my GT6.
  24. That is the duct to the right hand lower dash eyeball vent. Between it and the "Y" connector is the duct for the demister vent. Note that I think that the orientation of the "Y" connector is incorrect- see Chris Hawley's post. From bitter experience I recommend that you follow his recommendation of trial fitting the glove box while adjusting teh position of teh ducts and teh "Y" connector!
  25. Hi, Some photos are attached of my heater pipes before I took it all apart for a respray. Note that the car had had a previous restoration in the 1990s so they may not be in the original positions. As Doug states, they are of limited usefulness due to the lack of space and also as the dash is partially dismantled. There are significant space issues when putting it back together, notably attaching the demister pipes due to the wiper rack and then when you come to put the dash cubby boxes back in, you find the heater pipes are occupying the same space. It might be worth doing a trial instal of the cubby boxes before fixing all the pipes. I had the drivers side heater pipe "Y" junction in the horizontal plane as in the photos and it was a real fight to get the RH cubby box in. It might help if the "Y" junction is in a more vertical position as shown in the parts diagram if this is possible. Chris
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