Russell1972
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Posts posted by Russell1972
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I'm popping up on Saturday for a look around and to watch some go across the block. It's usually a good day out, but I haven't been to one since before Covid and they split it between Saturday and Sunday.
There's a Triumph you missed, the 2.5 PI Estate (that's running on carbs), lot 95.
My neighbour's MG Magnette is going through too, lot 102.
I'm not planning to buy anything, but I'm strangely drawn to the Bedford Rascal Camper! The friend I'm going with is looking at the 110 Land Rover for another friend and may be placing a bid, so at least we have some purpose behind the visit.
Russell.
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In Ipswich I had to go to 4 stations this morning before I could get any diesel. Asda station was completely closed, as was Morrisons. The new Shell just off the A14 had no diesel. Managed to get some at another Shell, but they were just putting the tags on the E10 petrol pumps as I pulled in. All those stations are within 1 to 2 miles of each other.
I think I paid about 1.78/l , but I tried not to look.
Glad I'm not going away for Easter 😕
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31 minutes ago, PeterH said:
Someone in another club has recommended Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure. I thought they were joking but it's quite genuine. The name will lead to all sorts of innuendo but has anyone tried it?
Yes, I've used it on a couple of cars. It's very good at very small leaks, as the fluid itself is the consistency of water, so trickles into the gap, settles and dries. You may need to apply 2 or 3 times, but it does work.
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The translation makes it a far more interesting read than a lot of online articles.
'The terms "abandoned" are not strong enough to describe this spectacle of desolation. Indeed, beyond being stored against each other, these Triumphs are far from being respected by their unknown owners.'
Perhaps I should start to be more flowery with my TSSC reports. :-)
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They hide the rot incredibly well. I've just finished restoring a 1968 Single Cab pickup. What I thought would be just sills, ended up needing the middle third of the truck replacing. Sills, strengtheners, lower bulkhead, upper and lower loadbeds, complete side panel, new 'treasure chest' door. Even after a bare metal repaint, from a distance, and in photos, it doesn't look a whole lot different to when I bought it!
3 photos attached, as bought (with the whitewalls), half-way through the horrors, and what it looks like now.
Russell.
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1 hour ago, Mathew said:
Nicely spotted, I love the club but the tight wad in me can't stretch to that much! My local iron mongers could supply the metal for approx 10 pounds and I could make it. Any one know what it attached to underneath . If I can't find a second hand one looks like making will be the other option.
The main cross bar that runs behind the bumper, is sandwiched between the bumper mounts and the body and attached with the existing bumper bolts. The thinner bar that runs down under the rear is just bolted through the floor. I think I had to drill a couple of holes, so that part doesn't bolt to anything in particular.
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I bought one for my 2000 estate from the TSSC club shop about 17 years ago, and I see they still do them.
https://shop.tssc.org.uk/product/towbar-20002500pi-estate-mkii-ptr28
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On 31/10/2020 at 13:58, NonMember said:
MLM31V - a metallic blue TR7 drophead with a Sprint engine - shows as neither taxed nor MOT'd but had a change of V5 within the last few months. Anyone on here recently bought it? Restoration project?
Could it be the current owner has just moved house (along with all their projects) and a new V5 has been issued for the change of address?
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I did my GT6 windscreen trim a couple of years ago and used this method. It worked eventually, but took an awful lot of patience.
Russell.
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On 02/08/2020 at 15:54, thescrapman said:
There is a Suffolk meet Tuesday, I won't be there but Russell and hopefully plenty of the other will be.
take a tape measure and hopefully a couple of Spitfire will turn up.
Think of as if the sill was not pushed far enough into the tooling so the top is too short and the curved bit is not curved enough.
Yes, I will be there, definitely this time, no excuses. :-)
Steve, if you want to pop over to my house before the meeting and take some measurements of my MK3 GT6, let me know and I'll PM you my address. The doors line up quite well on that.
I can't bring it to the pub as I've got the front valences off it at the moment.
Russell
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I bought a mohair hood stowage cover, (to cover the hood when it's folded down), from them 4 years ago. Great quality and fits a treat.
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Well done Peter, glad you finally got it sold. Your experience only goes to reinforce my mantra, of "never sell anything - just build more sheds"
Hopefully see you Tuesday.
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I also have this issue with my MK3 GT6 as outlined in the thread below, also a D-Type.
I bought the car with that as a known problem, but the only solution I've found is to clout the overdrive case with a hide hammer while moving. It seems to stick once the box gets warm.
At the moment, I've given up with it and am resigned to the fact the gearbox will have to come out. I'm preparing the car for it's first MoT for a while, so have electrically disconnected the overdrive to stop me trying it with all the tunnel back in.
Russell.
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Thanks all for your ideas, but it looks like the gearbox will have to come out.
For the top valve, I removed the cap, spring, pin and ball, the pulled out the tube. The tiny pin hole was clear, but I washed it out in white spirit anyway. Refitted everything, but it was the same.
With use it has got better than when I first put it on the road, but just when I think it's fixed, it'll stick again then needs a clout with the hammer.
Any last ideas before the 'box comes out? (that'll be after LeMans now).
Russell.
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Thanks Pete, I'll check those. The overdrive seems to stick in at after engaging at higher revs, so could it possibly be holding on at higher pressure?
I'll report back after I've had a another chance to fiddle.
Russell
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Thanks Shaun, that's a really useful thread, loads of info in there.
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Hi all,
Quick introduction, I'm Russell Banyard long-term TSSC member (28 years), current writer of the Suffolk Area monthly reports and this is my first topic creation on the TSSC board.
My current project is a MK3 GT6 that I've just returned to the road after 18months of gradual progress. The previous owner said the overdrive was sticking in and sure enough he was correct. Unfortunately it's not an electrical problem, that all seems to be working well. It's defininately mechanical, as once stuck it can only be freed by a sharp tap on the overdrive casing with a hide mallet.
Driving it about on Saturday with the tunnel off and repeated overdrive 'in/out/tap when stuck', seems to have improved matters. But when the overdrive has been in for longer than a minute or so, it won't release.
So my question is this, can you remove the D-Type overdrive from a GT6 without taking the gearbox out of the car? Having pulled my spare gearbox apart this evening on the bench, it looks like there might be enough room with the prop out of the way, but before I start, am I on a hiding to nothing?
Also, is there anything else I can try before pulling the box. I've checked the actuating lever, cleaned the filter and put new EP80/90 in the box.
Any help appreciated,
thanks,
Russell.
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If it's any help that last 2 misfire issues I've had, with TR6 and a GT6 have both been down to rotor arm and distributor cap. Both showed the symptoms you describe, fine when cold but splutters and misses when hot.
In both cases I spent time suspecting fuel and the coil.
Having said that, I have also moved the coil from the engine to the bulkhead on the GT6.
Russell.
TR6 PI system
in Fuel System
Posted · Edited by Russell1972
I have two TR6s and neither of them get used much this time of year. As Johny said, it does seem to come down to how well the injection system is sealed. One of them, even if left for a just a couple of weeks, takes a good 1 to 2 minutes of cranking before it will fire on enough cylinders to keep running. The other, probably only needs 30 seconds or less, but that’s on a hi-torque starter motor, so spins a bit faster. Both are on Bosch pumps. They have been left for 3 months occasionally, but once started and running on all 6 cylinders, they’ve been fine.
I’ve owned them for 15 and 10 years respectively, and they both run really well and pull like trains, so I’m reluctant to investigate tinkering with the injection to try and improve starting after a lay-up.
But to answer your question, I haven’t had any real issues.
Russell