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mikemunro

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  1. Looks to me as the letter S is the same standard as 8.8? Thanks Pete for the links. Do you think these are the right one with the letter S cheers for the help and information. Mike
  2. Hi all received the new bolts and all the other things gaskets new chain tensioner tab , the bolts are marked with an S so thay are not high textile can any one tell me if these are the right ones I got every thing off Chris Witor so I presumed he would of sent through appropriate fixings. Thank Mike
  3. hi Pete I've just received my parts from Chris Witor and he has supplied new bolts with the LETTERS A R B and then an S do you think these are good enough??
  4. Hi all thanks for the replys 1 I reused what I thought to be the correct bolts 2 the stubs came out by counter sink and drilling a small hole and using a bolt remover (which worked perfectly) 3 I took the bolts to a mechanic who instantly said that thay had cracked due to maby reuse or over tightening, I would say reuse as I torqued them according to the manual. I will check if the cam is free as it's been mentioned hopefully its ok. I've ordered new bolts and a new tab gaskets off Chris witor so that should the right ones for the job. I will let you all know how it goes thanks Mike
  5. just a thought is worth fitting said feed to the front oil gallery if whats been said is true that the front mains get starved just a thought Mike
  6. thanks very much pete for your help, just theres a laycock plate on flea bay at the moment and i was going to buy it if it was ok or rather compatable cheers mike
  7. yes i thinks the saying is liv and learn thanks RIchard for the reply
  8. mikemunro

    H beam rods

    yes i know its pressed out of one peice John, it was twisted, what i ment to say was it seems to be warped!!! as for using a blow torch it is a good idea as it softens the metal making it easier to work it, and yes it did fowl where the the rack is but that was put right again by heating the pan and re shaping with a solid bar, it also mis shaped the front of the pan slightly which again i heated and straightened using a straight edge. i had to make three new bulges on the pan ,i put the sump on, no gasket turned the engine over and the con rod bolt marked the spots where i needed to work on. PS sometimeS if you work on cold sheet steel it can crack this is why its a good idea to use hea,t the steel becomes softer therfore more malagable every one to ther own so long as it work in the end. Mike
  9. well i wish i would of read this before ive got said feed but about 3 months ago i was on the motorway sat at about 75_80 in my gt6 mk2 with an engine which had done only 3000 miles and al lof a sudden burning smell ,then knocking its brains out , then the temp went up to 100+ so slowed right down to 50 the temp went down to normal, turned off at the services lifted the bonnet couldnt see any thing wrong so thought damage is done and went on my to newbury plenty of power but knocking its nuts off any way when i got there had a closer look and the block had burned by number 2 cam bearing, so had a machanic look at it he said its terminal so i had it towed back to cardiff. i then stripped the engine down to find one cam bearing compleitly obliterated, cam was stuck in the block 2 tappets stuck (thay did go up and down but were stuck in the block) one piston compleitly wrecked one big end and two mains down to the copper and well let say thay looked like corse sandpaper one cylinder was blue where it got so hot, and the oil was burned and black as can be. my oil pressure has olways bee great and even this happened it stayed good. i always had some blue smoke on start up and was told its fine (bronze guides with oil seals on the inlets from chris witor very expensive but none on the exhaust as you dont need them) i think this explains the culprit being the external oil feed to the head !!! THIS ENGINE WAS ROLLING ROADED AND PRODUCED 139.9 BHP. i have just finnished rebuilding another engine 2.5 spec , and have re fitted the oil feed today ,i most surtainly am going to take it off tomommrow after reading whats been said in this post by some members. I think the saying IF ONLY ID KNOWN THAT BEFORE. i hope this post gets read as i really do feal that it was the external oil feed is what caused this problem PS the engine had a full service to day before i left for Newbury i traveled about 70 miles into my trip. Cheers all Mike
  10. panel wipe from a paint suplier it compleitly kills grease ,oil, and any silicone contamination this is idle late reply i know but it might help others. thanks mike
  11. not overly sure but shouldnt thay be the same thickness if there disigned for the same car?
  12. hi pete so are you saying a laycock friction plate is ok ? my clutch has only done about 3000 niles but on inspection its nearly gone down to the lines on one side, i have triple webers on the car and its a bit tricky to get going without slipping the clutch a bit. iv just rebiult it into a 2.5 so i was going to chang the plate as a matter of cause thanks mike
  13. hi can any one tell me if its ok to use a laycock frition plate with a borg and beck presure plate please
  14. mikemunro

    H beam rods

    sorry for the long delay turns out its a 2.5 sump , but its seams to be badly warped so ive resorted to making a spare 2.0 sump fit didnt take long with a blow torch and a ball hammer result thanks all for the advise
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