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Hi, I have today put in the cdse air pistons and springs making sure that the delrin washer is as flush as possible with the bottom of the pistons. The pistons drop onto the bridge with a light clunk. I have wound down the jets 3 complete turns. Everything else checks out as diaphragms are practically new as is everything else with these carbs. The car started after 3 short pulls and is running well. I have warmed the engine up and adjusted the throttle screws down to a nice idle of about 850-950 rpm. Both pistons are showing that they are off the bridge and when revved the pistons move equally. Have not had time to check with the colourtune but that is a job for Monday although it looks as though I am getting somewhere now. Once I get the fuelling sorted then I would like to get the timing as spot on as possible. Would someone be able to outline the procedure necessary in order to time via the dizzy. I have never fully understood this procedure and would be very grateful for any info in order that I can achieve this. Thanks very much, Rgds, Ken

Hi, Thanks for inputs, I have centred the jets many times to make sure the pistons drop onto the bridge and this seems to be happening. I am not sure whether the diaphragms that I have are too thick as they came with the kit I ordered to refurbish the carbs from Burlen. Is there anywhere that is known that produces the correct thickness of diaphragm? I will try with the pistons from the cdse's. I will set the needle flush with the piston bottom. Do I need to use the same procedure for centralizing the jets or is that not necessary with biased needles? The cdse's were okay although did tend to suffer from flooding now and again. I was looking for something simpler therefore I went for these cds's. Cheers, Ken

Hi, Eventually managed to get into the garage today after being ill for a week. I have checked down the air pistons and found that the two holes are either side of the needle facing the manifold side. I have removed the springs and put them on the bench to check whether they are equal or not. (please see attached photo's)(not sure whether equal or not)? I have started the engine and let it idle for a while whilst checking the piston movement up and down. They look as though they are just a little bit above the bridge. When using the throttle it looks as though the rear one moves first and moves easier than the front. Is this an indication of a spring problem. I have not yet taken the springs from the cdse's and put them into the cds's to see whether that makes a difference. Does a weak or stronger spring cause a rich mixture or does this not have any influence on this problem at all? Cheers, Ken

Hi Pete, I am using fixed needle air pistons that came with the cds's (needle 6AC). The needles are set to the same height in the pistons. Will check the springs side by side. If I lift the pin all the way then it turns blue. I will have to check the air pistons running height at idle. The temp outside is -7deg C at the moment so may be a while before I can check this. Will get back to you on this, Thanks. Ken

Hi Pete, Thanks for your advice. I have checked the floats and they are correct, the alloy sealing washer is under the jet top hat and the air box gaskets etc are not blocking the air vents. I have had the choke disc apart and no corrosion present. As far as the springs go, i have no idea whether they are the same as there are no markings or colour on them. How can i check this? The diaphragm fitting rings would seem the same weight etc as when I swapped the pistons from the rear to front carb the problem remained on the rear carb however, I did not swap the springs. What I don't understand is when I lift the piston pin on the side of the rear carb the mixture turns to blue, is this normal or would it indicate a problem? I appreciate your help very much. Ken

Hi Doug, The carb to manifold gaskets on these CDS's are different than the CDSE's. They don't have the loop in them for the hole on the carb face. These can be fitted either way round. The hole on the carb face is covered by the carb to manifold block as it seems the hole does not do anything as it does on the CDSE carbs. If you get my drift. The manifold to head gasket is new along with new studs and nuts etc. We can get ARAL Ultimate 102 octane over the border here into Germany. We also have Euro 102 at certain pumps as well as Competition 102. i will try timing the engine as per your recommendation. Thanks. Regards, Ken

Hi. I have an early 1971 Triumph GT6 Rotoflex Model Mk2 Engine fitted originally with CDSE carbs. I have now fitted a pair of CDS carbs mounted on a Vitess 2 ltr manifold. I have done this in order to be able to tune the carbs a lot easier with the adjusters being below the carbs. I thought this would be okay however, I am having problems with trying to tune the rear carb with a colortune. I can just about turn the adjuster all the way up (anticlockwise) before it shows any sign of turning blue. In fact it has problems even showing a faint blue colour. This is from a starting point of 3 turns down as in the WM. I have swapped the pistons rear to front but same problem occurs. The carbs have been completely overhauled with everything i.e. new gaskets, jets, needles (6AC), etc. Pistons drop with a clunk. I have noticed that if i raise the piston pin then the colortune does turn blue. The timing is set to 13 deg BTDC (using 102 octane fuel) and the tappets to 10 thou. Plugs are BP6ES gapped at 35 thou as running accuspark electronic ignition. Floats are set to 17-18mm height. Any thoughts advice please? Regards, Ken

Thanks for your inputs. I will get to this hopefully soon as it is Bl***y Hot here at the moment 35C+ and is set to remain so for a few days. Phew....

Hi Nick, Going into 1st is reasonably light with a solid click. 1st to 2nd is also reasonable. 1st to 3rd is stiffer although it goes in but with more of a clunk. 2nd to 3rd has the same effect. 3rd to 4th produces more stiffness with a heavy clunk. 2nd to 4th produces the same effect. The major problem I believe is the 3rd and 4th shift which generates more stiffness and more effort to pull it into the gate. I removed the remote and top off the gearbox to see whether it felt the same and it appears that is the case. I cannot detect any difference whether it is on or off which leads me to believe that the problem is in the box top with the selectors. I hope this all makes sense, glad the pics helped... Ken

Hi Pete, I have checked the pivot bolt and it appears in the correct position (see photo's). I had a problem with the bush kit (chewed up plastic cup washer) caused by the steel cup washer having a sharp edge. Replacing this (better cup washers acquired) and using plenty of lube on the whole of the kit contents only had a minimum effect on easing the gear selection problem. I have made sure the breather holes are free and these are functioning fine. I am considering whether it is a good idea to move forward on this by removing the plugs at the end of the shafts including the bolts (very tight) and removing the shafts with a view to replacing the balls and plungers, springs etc. Would you consider this to be a worthwhile option as I cannot see any other reason why the gear selection is so notchy and stiff? Appreciate your help and advice. Regards, Ken

Okay Nick, Thanks very much. I will have a look at that. Cheers...Ken

Hello, I have a problem with a very stiff/notchy gear change on my GT6 3 Rail overdrive box. I have removed the top cover to see if I could figure out what the problem is but I am not sure what the problem might be therefore hopefully somebody can advise. Please see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpNz4qfo8nw Sorry that it is very amateurish and not very good quality but hopefully it gives an indication of the problem. Thanks very much, Regards, Ken

Hi, Thanks for your input as really appreciate it. This will of course save me some money so very pleased I can use them. Cheers, Ken

Hi Pete, I don't think that I can use the springs off the cracked GT6 head as according to rimmers the springs have different part numbers whether double or single. The single ones that I have on the GT6 head do not match with the numbers on the 2500S head parts list (according to rimmers) and therefore it leaves me with trying to figure out which ones to use. I have a WSM for the GT6 but not for the 2500S and have tried to search for one online without success. Thanks for your input and have a good holiday. Regards, Ken

Hi, I have now collected the head that I am going to use 219016. It looks as though it has hardly been used and looks new however, it did not come with valves, springs, collars etc. i know which valves I need (ex 159872) (Inlet 146128) but have no idea whether it should have single or double springs and what collars to use. Please could someone point me in the right direction so I can move forward in getting this head completed? Thanks very much. Regards, Ken