Jump to content

JohnD

TSSC Member
  • Posts

    4,786
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    105

Everything posted by JohnD

  1. Pete, and DannyB, The responsibility for unsatisfactory goods, as far as the ordinary buyer goes, lies with the supplier, not the manufacturer. So my suggestion of telling Payen's new owners was misplaced. Take it up with Rimmer's! John PS I have a couple of Payens in stock that will be the original type, but I'm sorry, I'm hanging onto them!
  2. Thank you, Pete! You have convinced me! Previously I would swear by Payens, but my faith is broken. Will you be writing to whoever makes "Payen" now, to tell them of your dissatisfaction at their poor product? John
  3. Aidan, The bracket comes off. Take it with the nuts and bolts to someone who can weld. Tell them what you want. Probably do it for 'a drink'! It would take five minutes! John
  4. As above. And consider welding the nuts to the bracket, with the bolts from under, for next time! John
  5. See 'exploded' diagram at Canley's: D Type Overdrive : Canley Classics The O/d box is, obviously, longer and has a different mount plate to th non-O/d, between the chassis rails. John
  6. Pete, I did offer my respect to your experience, but truly, I feel that you must seek another reason than just the gasket for the lack of any compression! Please tell us wat you find when you take the head off again. John
  7. As you say, that's a disaster. And easy to blame on the gasket, but that would be like blaming the bathwater, when baby disappears down the plughole. With respect, Pete, I'd suspect faulty installation or previous damage. "The old gasket has signs of blow by , most nuts quite loose "! Could there have been erosion of the block face or head? And, "there is no need to reface the head its as flat as a pancake" To a true engineer's straight edge? John
  8. Valve not seating? Have you tried adding oil? Warped head? 50psi sounds very low, but compression gauges vary. What is the progression along the block? JOhn
  9. Looks like I may have to eat my words about the Club's lack of publicity! I hope so! I imagine that every member will now have a detailed email about the Malvern event, and the other clubs are are joining in! Great Stuff! John
  10. JohnD

    Offside or right

    Indeed, "starboard" or steerboard is right because you use your right hand to steer with, in yer old longboats. It still is, in a boat with a tiller.
  11. The "jack up the rear and let it run in gear until it let's go" does work, but an axle stand that is not absolutely stable could catapult you into the back wall/garage door (choose disaster of taste). If possible, a safer solution is a tow start in gear, followed by driving about with your foot on the clutch. The opposing forces of rolling resistance and engine will very soon release the clutch, so be ready to unthrottle ASAP. John
  12. Heat? If there is one fluid MORE inflammable than petrol, it's brake fluid.
  13. Dave, The absolute number that a compression gauge shows is meaningless! It's the relationship hhe others in the same block.yhst is revealing. And as you have more recently found this oiling, its worth doing the test again. Please review the method (many descriptions on-line) and practice it three or four times to ensure consistency. Good luck! John
  14. Pete, Completely agree that guide wear cannot be assessed with the springs in place! But pressurising the chamber may check valve seal on the seat, but will not pressurise the intake or exhaust ducts and cannot check the guides! Remove the springs - best done with the head off - and wiggle them by hand. ANY free play is too much! Dave, Consider piston ring wear. You can check for this without disassembly. Check the compression pressures. If No. 2 is low then check again after a teaspoonful of engine oil down the plug hole. If the pressure rises, all is well. If it does not then a valve is not sealing. John
  15. Sorry, Daz, no! There are ways to free a 'frozen clutch', where the disused clutch plate has rusted to the flywheel, but it sounds as if your master cylinder has seized. If it's that seized, then a rebuild may require sleeving to restore a smooth enough bore, that will cost more than a new one. See: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID007803 John PS Johny, among the 2001 uses of WD40, that of penetrating oil is not one of them! Daz might try with a properly designed product. I've had success (not with brake cylinders) with Innotec Deblock X5.
  16. THAT, is why Arthur Daley never got an OBE.
  17. Oh, you old romantic! Surely there's a clock at Malvern you could meet under? If not, there is one at Great Malvern railway station, which would be even more "Brief Encounter"!
  18. Simples! Post pics of you with your cars, here. With -shock horror! - your real name!
  19. JohnD

    Piston

    Recenter the needle. https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/353535-su-hs4-jet-recentering/
  20. Very active Facebook page, "Malta Triumph Club".
  21. And, piran, if you possibly can, take out the enginevwith gearbox! Much easier to assemble one to the other on the bench! A "Load Leveller" and sufficient lift height is needed. John
  22. On CT, people who knew Nuala, and her family, much better than I, are contacting Facebook to have her personal page "memorialised", so that it should be immune from further desecration. But who knows, with Facebook? John
  23. No it's genuine , posted by Tom Hartley, our Webmaster. 'Nuala' asked me to be her Facebook friend ( I was) about a week ago https://www.clubtriumph.co.uk/forums/topic/18041-nuala-dowie/page/3/#comment-207667 Just click.on the right hand end of the header to remove it if it distresses you.
  24. No test drive, no buy, unless real drop in price!
×
×
  • Create New...