Pete Lewis

Had some last night , it still wants to play difficult The Buckeye triumphs has a good tech section all the options andmods developed over the pond are shown in detail Its headed ,'and that nasty pin' !! And ive got one by the end of the day me or the pin will win Pete

Pedestal nuts get stripped when some misguided operator torques them up as head nuts Std 3/8unf max 29- 31lbft , and probably less on alloy pedestals , (sorry books in the cold nosun lounge ) Pete

The fork does have a drift out hole but so far it doesnt align with the end of the dowel , The dowel, should go right through the shaft, its not obvoiusly moved but the drift out hole its down a 3mm hole with torch mirror and varifocals Maybe some xmas tipple will help Pete

Cilit 'Bang and the dirt is gone' along with half the car , If you can afford the laser option you wont be doing diy repairs Pete

Fitted a good few you dont need to reverse the ring gear Pre engage are indexed 1/2 a tooth on each action and if its not engaged fully it wont fire the starter motor up So even if the lead chamfer is on the wrong side of the ring , you wont cause a problem

a quick tape measure the shaft you can see will show if they are unmatched lengths. just go yoke to flinger or any visual place if the bearing has failed then the shaft can walk outwards , if the bearing is 'OK' then the trunion has been fitted too far up the shaft, hence the thing sticks out beyond the backplate and its grease catcher as i said there is no shoulder on the shaft to controll here the bearing sits, initial assy places the back plate/trunion on a little way enough to fit the hub and start the big nut doing the nut up presses the hub on the taper and feeds the shaft through the bearing supposedly in the right place Ive a Spitfire locally with a not as bad but same problem, Pete

Well with Griffon , Rolls and Royce there must be a Spitfire awaiting a Merlin conversion Welcome aboard Pete

Doug you should have stayed up north, This is typical of the trunnion bearing being whacked too far up the drive shaft there is no control shoulder it can go anywhere. While its off check the trailing shoe has the spare handbrake lever hole at the bottom, at the bottom You have to drop the shaft off the diff and club the shaft back throught the bearing/backplate/trunnion There is a dimension in the wsm but that wont help you, its just a starting point if you are refitting Then the hub flange pulls it into the right place, if its on too far , its club it to death Pete

for something to do over Christmas I have decided to take the geabox off (with Rays help) HYA as she can jump out of 1st gear on these boxes and TR and Stags the clutch withdrawl fork is held on a cross shaft with one of those hatefull screwed taper dowel bolts many will find these are done up by a gorrilla and struggle to undo, we on mine it was reasonable to release but true to form on these boxes the dowel often fractures , so yes mine has , no lost movement i wouldnt have known till it gave up completely at some time soon. the snag is the remaing part is long enough to block removal of the shaft , you cant get in to see . you cant get in to drill. its been sugested drill through the back of the fork , and drift the remains out , this sounds a plan but there is a web on the casting makes aligning a back drill nigh on impossible when its still in the housing im sure i have to cut the shaft to enable removal and examine on the bench anyone got Doctor Who Screwdriver i can borrow ???!!! makes a change to write a problem rather than making up solutions Ha ! Pete

full circle Ha ! christmas cometh then it goeth pete

You can self calibrate Clamp drive in vice Measure a know distance down the handle Then add a known weight So example 25lb at 2 ft gives 50 lbft. 50 at 1 ft gives 50lbft Make the handle longer and less weight is needed Eg 12.5 lb at 4 ft gives 50lbft So afew bricks or bag of sand will get you result , even use a decent spring balance scales , Stand on the bathroom scales and watch the load reduce by a known amount as you press the wrench

Ive got norbar <100lft had for my 21st thats 51 years old as every day tooling , still calibrates ok, then theres a torque and angle lcd 120 lft and a torque to yield 200lbft these are rarely used Pete

There is no torque for the studs in the triumph issued workshop manual just the nuts at 42-46lbft I would spin them in at 20lbft max to ensure they are nipped up tight certainly never loose Excess loading in the block can pull the casting and scrap the block doing studs to the same load as the nuts is In my experience very likely to end in tears. Just nip the studs As for a torque wrench a 1/2" ratchet will with a good pull gets around 60 So a nice even pull on all nuts in sequence will give a good result without getting a hernia These figures /tooling are to enable unskilled assemblers to achieve a consistent result With a sensible feel you can quite easily acheive a result Pete

with new studs its worth a look at the nuts and washers the washers deform and the base of the nuts can spread, this all looses torque during use the nuts are high rated as the 46lbft torque is much hgher than std 3/8" unf nut will hold, amd soft washers brinnel out under the load of the nut so anything std. will give in quckly . upside down wheel nuts can make good head nuts where theres room . the HD nuts are usually a black oiled quenched apperance Pete

think you will find the 'brass cup 'washers are used in the front face float vent hole on later carbs have no idea why you would need these in any kit, its a once fitted for life part. early carbs just have a drilled hole if that helps Pete

Yes I remember , just wondered how far away you were Glad its all ok

In 65 I bought my first triumph a 59 alpine mauve 948 6yrs old no side rails no floor no body mounts It looked good down to the carpet line , makes yours look easy all these years on Happy christmas Pete

The kits are very 'universal' and often have parts included not related exactly to the unit you have Will, try to make a non guess at the use of the cup washers later , Bit late getting going this morning?... the effect of to many christmas dinners Pete

blue tac , sticky pads or under the pulley bolt all will work Head studs on refit the block end should have a slot in to allow any oil out or you can blow the block face with hydraulic pressure Pete

Good choice to put the smile back Pete

we started to develop a happy version with Garth , Pete and Ray, it took more time than i have , we made a diary of events to video, and cant remember the total hours but would have taken far to many visits to the chassis in club shop ,taking 3 months to work through all the servicing needs , so we escaped and jumped ship Ive made a good few in house video's at work with fumble fingers and hammy antics it takes far too long easy to make it dull and boring, if anyones awake look at youtube RB44 production video which was a homemade with no equipment we made at Dodge loaded by a owner copied from VHS to CD and uploaded , hence the deteriated presentation but you see why keeping it light and happy is something you need to be trained into https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjag4aq7pDYAhXKLMAKHa8mApkQtwIINDAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DA9W0RSDbERU&usg=AOvVaw1sJ-1gj7ctSyHlTsFVoNsZ much easier to get someone to film the next twiddle day, live is light, to a script is boring Pete

Last nights christmas dinner raffle had amongst some steak cutlery, chocs and bottles of plonk a cloth for wiping soggy balls..... as a prize Pete

They charge 1.99 to use the Loo !!!!!

Thedrive skew gear can be removed and dropped back in indexing the position of the off set drive slot but check the orientaion of the two Distributors if made to the right spec the drive dog blades and rotor should both be the same which allows a straight swap You need to remove a spark plug and stick thumb over the hole, turn engine tillmair is pressed past your thumb, then you know You are on no1 compression stroke , turn tomline up the tdc markers drop the dizzy in , do check the clamp diameter is the same (This can vary between lucas and delco ) with the cap off check where the rotor is pointing this is where no1 lead needs to be fitted Follow the firing order anticlockwise, now set your 13 deg btc and clamp the base If the drive gear is incorrectly positioned the is a set method in the manuals, but its only to control where the vac unit sits so there is no fouling For Firing order 6cy 153624 4cy 1342 All dizzy turn and need lead order to be anticlockwise Pete

Back in the days of pedal cycles and acetylene lighting my dad along with my uncle half asleep on enroute luton to hastings ran up the backside of a horse In the dark , in the surprise he peddled off and took Dad 5 miles before he caught up No idea what transpired but the thoughts of acetylene and horse emissions could have been enilghtening