Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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Doug you should have stayed up north, This is typical of the trunnion bearing being whacked too far up the drive shaft there is no control shoulder it can go anywhere. While its off check the trailing shoe has the spare handbrake lever hole at the bottom, at the bottom You have to drop the shaft off the diff and club the shaft back throught the bearing/backplate/trunnion There is a dimension in the wsm but that wont help you, its just a starting point if you are refitting Then the hub flange pulls it into the right place, if its on too far , its club it to death Pete
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for something to do over Christmas I have decided to take the geabox off (with Rays help) HYA as she can jump out of 1st gear on these boxes and TR and Stags the clutch withdrawl fork is held on a cross shaft with one of those hatefull screwed taper dowel bolts many will find these are done up by a gorrilla and struggle to undo, we on mine it was reasonable to release but true to form on these boxes the dowel often fractures , so yes mine has , no lost movement i wouldnt have known till it gave up completely at some time soon. the snag is the remaing part is long enough to block removal of the shaft , you cant get in to see . you cant get in to drill. its been sugested drill through the back of the fork , and drift the remains out , this sounds a plan but there is a web on the casting makes aligning a back drill nigh on impossible when its still in the housing im sure i have to cut the shaft to enable removal and examine on the bench anyone got Doctor Who Screwdriver i can borrow ???!!! makes a change to write a problem rather than making up solutions Ha ! Pete
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full circle Ha ! christmas cometh then it goeth pete
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You can self calibrate Clamp drive in vice Measure a know distance down the handle Then add a known weight So example 25lb at 2 ft gives 50 lbft. 50 at 1 ft gives 50lbft Make the handle longer and less weight is needed Eg 12.5 lb at 4 ft gives 50lbft So afew bricks or bag of sand will get you result , even use a decent spring balance scales , Stand on the bathroom scales and watch the load reduce by a known amount as you press the wrench
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Ive got norbar <100lft had for my 21st thats 51 years old as every day tooling , still calibrates ok, then theres a torque and angle lcd 120 lft and a torque to yield 200lbft these are rarely used Pete
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There is no torque for the studs in the triumph issued workshop manual just the nuts at 42-46lbft I would spin them in at 20lbft max to ensure they are nipped up tight certainly never loose Excess loading in the block can pull the casting and scrap the block doing studs to the same load as the nuts is In my experience very likely to end in tears. Just nip the studs As for a torque wrench a 1/2" ratchet will with a good pull gets around 60 So a nice even pull on all nuts in sequence will give a good result without getting a hernia These figures /tooling are to enable unskilled assemblers to achieve a consistent result With a sensible feel you can quite easily acheive a result Pete
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with new studs its worth a look at the nuts and washers the washers deform and the base of the nuts can spread, this all looses torque during use the nuts are high rated as the 46lbft torque is much hgher than std 3/8" unf nut will hold, amd soft washers brinnel out under the load of the nut so anything std. will give in quckly . upside down wheel nuts can make good head nuts where theres room . the HD nuts are usually a black oiled quenched apperance Pete
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think you will find the 'brass cup 'washers are used in the front face float vent hole on later carbs have no idea why you would need these in any kit, its a once fitted for life part. early carbs just have a drilled hole if that helps Pete
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Yes I remember , just wondered how far away you were Glad its all ok
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In 65 I bought my first triumph a 59 alpine mauve 948 6yrs old no side rails no floor no body mounts It looked good down to the carpet line , makes yours look easy all these years on Happy christmas Pete -
The kits are very 'universal' and often have parts included not related exactly to the unit you have Will, try to make a non guess at the use of the cup washers later , Bit late getting going this morning?... the effect of to many christmas dinners Pete
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blue tac , sticky pads or under the pulley bolt all will work Head studs on refit the block end should have a slot in to allow any oil out or you can blow the block face with hydraulic pressure Pete
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Good choice to put the smile back Pete
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we started to develop a happy version with Garth , Pete and Ray, it took more time than i have , we made a diary of events to video, and cant remember the total hours but would have taken far to many visits to the chassis in club shop ,taking 3 months to work through all the servicing needs , so we escaped and jumped ship Ive made a good few in house video's at work with fumble fingers and hammy antics it takes far too long easy to make it dull and boring, if anyones awake look at youtube RB44 production video which was a homemade with no equipment we made at Dodge loaded by a owner copied from VHS to CD and uploaded , hence the deteriated presentation but you see why keeping it light and happy is something you need to be trained into https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjag4aq7pDYAhXKLMAKHa8mApkQtwIINDAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DA9W0RSDbERU&usg=AOvVaw1sJ-1gj7ctSyHlTsFVoNsZ much easier to get someone to film the next twiddle day, live is light, to a script is boring Pete
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Last nights christmas dinner raffle had amongst some steak cutlery, chocs and bottles of plonk a cloth for wiping soggy balls..... as a prize Pete
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Club Shop password / log-in
Pete Lewis replied to Colin Lindsay's topic in Forum Help and Suggestions
They charge 1.99 to use the Loo !!!!! -
Thedrive skew gear can be removed and dropped back in indexing the position of the off set drive slot but check the orientaion of the two Distributors if made to the right spec the drive dog blades and rotor should both be the same which allows a straight swap You need to remove a spark plug and stick thumb over the hole, turn engine tillmair is pressed past your thumb, then you know You are on no1 compression stroke , turn tomline up the tdc markers drop the dizzy in , do check the clamp diameter is the same (This can vary between lucas and delco ) with the cap off check where the rotor is pointing this is where no1 lead needs to be fitted Follow the firing order anticlockwise, now set your 13 deg btc and clamp the base If the drive gear is incorrectly positioned the is a set method in the manuals, but its only to control where the vac unit sits so there is no fouling For Firing order 6cy 153624 4cy 1342 All dizzy turn and need lead order to be anticlockwise Pete
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Back in the days of pedal cycles and acetylene lighting my dad along with my uncle half asleep on enroute luton to hastings ran up the backside of a horse In the dark , in the surprise he peddled off and took Dad 5 miles before he caught up No idea what transpired but the thoughts of acetylene and horse emissions could have been enilghtening
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i think the dry/ wet two stage limits are sensible , here we avoid plain and simple , the onus is on the driver and old rules /highway code we all read i said before on a speed aware course a load had no idea what the nation speed limit signs meant i firmly belive we should treat all as idiots and make everything plain, big and in your face , no messing with interpretations on the hoof more there it is, thats what you do, deviate and bang youre booked . we have too many inconspicous rules Pete
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Samantha , its not really a reserve tank the suction tube inside the tank is curved , not straight, so when you turn the lever on the top you turn the pipe and this just lowers the point is sucks from , simple but effective, , lack of use and age degrades the seal inside the union nut under the lever and this can then leak with a full tank of fuel sloshing about . you need to prise the lever from under the sweep plate and unscrew the sleeve nut , whats under it may be good or ...rubbish ... easy while tanks out but worth a quick look. the repairs looking good. Pete
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The only accident I have had in many many years was being a lunatic grandad in the 2000 when on a Area outing run to meet up with Doug in Wallingford I planted the 2000 in the back of Doc Martins nice Herald so I blame Doug . Pete
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There are loads of topics on this eg pete
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A search on here will find a number of tails of angste and success the collapse of cheap was brought about by the underwriters classing Aged classics in the same mould as idiots in escorts and saxo etc with them creating high risk. Adding an adult may help , but some find a citroen C1 is the vastly cheaper option This has caused a lot of young drivers have been adversly affected by this stupid ruling The club has tried long and hard to get some sense as do the insurance brokers who all loose out but its seems unlikely to change
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think said before but while its out replace or check the rubber olive in the reserve swivel union , you could fit a solid copper olive and nip it up tight then it never leaks again but the swivel will be sort of fixed tight . depends if you even feel you need the reserve option, it only drops the suction tube a small amount not hi tech Pete
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from past stories my aunt was secretary to John Black but she cant help now either !!! there s a lot of mixed up history from my families past with Standard, Hillman, Commer , and the Rootes brothers , no use asking them either .!! sort of makes wonder why Ive got Triumph Pete
