Pete Lewis

Ready for a cabinet flush then .

Every manual and drivers handbook states engine oil If the 0 ring is original wheres the problem if its lasted 40 + years The new one wont last as long Pete

Is that posh soda ??

bearing in mind petrol fumes can hang around and be quite volatile it cant be much worse than the old trick of a tin fill with gas an light it, ker bangpop , mind you as kids we filled a 5 gallon drum with gas ...it took about a month for the eyebrows to grow back we all learn as we grow Ha ! Pete

i advocate cheap as chips washing soda before you go mad on spending £££s 3 cupfuls should dissolve most crud. flush the heat matrix and valve with a hose as a separate job when flushing the radiator its ok to use a garden hose but you wont get the full flow for the size of a rad hose , unless you get lots of plumbing waste pipe and a 20 gallon reservior up near the roof of the house ( not really usefull but we had to do that to test radiator flow on truck rads ) you can safely leave the soda mix in for a week but no longer Pete

Pleased its worked ok ...so far....cheep fix Pete

I fire her up quite frequently and never had a problem Just engage and a light slip keeps it from rusting on. damp makes sticking more likely On new trucks we had a additive on the disc and a lacquer on the flywheel to reduce this as trucks can be in static storeage for long periods but you cant add it once assembled . Pete

when its warmer and you have a lust for removing brake drums make sure the trailing shoe is not fitted upside down the spare square hole for the handbrake lever must be at the bottom of the rearmost shoe not at the top like the front, leading shoe its a good one for knock ,bangs and poor adjustments Pete

good call Colin, being tight .I made mine from a bit of copper pipe , filled down to make the tangs . Pete

both roger and I| started a tips and tricks/ how to posts back in 2014 but they get lost in the constant re shuffles with new postings it needs a heading title of its own maybe Kevin can add a header ?? then we can populate it with ideas and easier to find Pete

Clean the offending threaded hole and check , it is tapped deeper than is needed box of dies and taps are always useful to reclaim The thread lower down may be quite usable Pete Snap Dave, Edit.......And make sure the new stat has a jiggle pin to bleed air out if not drill a 3mm hole in the outer rim.

Needle removal by grub screw applies to CD CDS all fixed needle , bottom adjustable, not CDSE these have the top dashpot adjuster and sprung biased needles unfortunatley held in with the adjusting nut and sprag washer , I would fit a new washer or flatten the removed or it will not grip on refitting. Its cold , does the choke actually fully rotate the choke lever ? Pete

There should be a claw washer fitted between switch and back of dash to aid/stop any rotation Pete

You have to be carefull when partial blanking rads you can make the fan cavitate the air flow and the whip on the bades fractures them off Ive seen metal truck fan blades that came through the floor , nasty. There are louvred blinds around that are temperature controlled , Better to just remove the fan in winter and I would say warm up is not dependants on the opening temperature , what ever the spec they are all fully closed until they reach a trigger temperature , so fit what you like the initial warm up remains the same , only the final output temp is controlled If the warm up time is excessive the stat is opening too early , the engine is very efficient, the bypass is too much Or its just too blasted cold Pete

Old fuel is often talked about but using the cars less over winter has never stopped me starting anything over the past 20 years Cars left for many many months or years can can suffer from thick jellied fuel and blockages Start with if the air piston is out can you see fuel a few mm below the jet looking down its hole ? If you bounce the car it should visually be seen to move a little If you crank do you get a spark from a HT lead held a few mm from the block ? Slivers of fuel hose are particular pests which get stuck in the float needles and drop fuel evels The buckeye site shows clearly how to repair these carbs but agree with David your barking up the wrong tree And after all the head probems you do have 0.010" tappet gaps ? Pete

The ransmitted effort is all down to the initial torque applied, the sticktion in the resultant fixing and anything uncle tom cobbly can Cobble together to make unscrewing a challenge My battery wrench does 330 lbft ( when fully charged)I would only use hardened impact socket on this But my 3/8 drive is less aggressive and std sockets work well So if theres a big nut but not siezed any socket will survive reasonably well , If its a old rusty thread bound gorrilla bound nut then a proper impact socket is advisable Certainly any 6 sided is stroger than a bi hex, and applies the impacr much more efficiently Air powered guns only deliver the output if the supply hose and volume are adequate A long hose of 10mm dia will seriously strangle the guns output. Pete

Its not shown on any parts listing that I can see I have seen these with a paper joint, its often trying to escape with edges showing beyond the hsg. Canley list a diff joint kit diffset1 but cant break it down to whats included Im sure some sealant is desirable , I use loctite 573 /574 for reliable sealing magic stuff Pete Pete

my guys had to check these for accepting warranty so any test was approved by the suppliers.there was a spec for how open at what temperature rise , we could measure this with a simple clip on vernier made for the job, (all were wastats) long time ago now any thoughts on x mm at x temp has long departed the grey matter Pete

If your strombergs have cdse 150 with needle adjustment down the dash pot then there is an 0 ring under the needle adjuster that fails and lets the oil leak out, the needle assy is held in place with a sprag star grippy washer pressed down the oil tube Available as part of a repair kit for cdse carbs, Pete

The stat specs are related to contries climates 82 c is std for uk and much of europe We had to test stats for which we had a heated tank of coolant, with a serious circulator an temperature climbed in Tenths of a degree, boiling like and egg is futile All triumpf systems need a stat witha jiggle pin to let air out when closed And they modulate , its not just open , it will float between open and restricted as the hot outlet gets cooled by the cooled inlet If you can look in the header/filler you should see the flow and ebb across the top of the rad tubes as the engine runs Pete

Parts list show them as one 1" and one 1.25" long 5/16unf bolts Pete

why not give places like the carburettor exchange a call for a re build quote small company , no frills, generally well price being local ive used them for many years http://www.carbex.demon.co.uk/page2.html Pete

if its not getting hot theres really only two culprits thermostat temperature gauge /sender//voltstabiliser well thats 4 Pete

Having the hole at the bottom is its designed place but not overly important it only lets coolant out when the gland seal has failed If its on top well it takes coolant a few more spoonfulls before it escapes Pete