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Pete Lewis

TSSC AO
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis

  1. Dave the pinion in the J type overdrive is in its own bearing housing, provided the Y shaped clamp is nipped to hold it in the gearbox it wont leak or drop out Pete
  2. if its leaking from the gasket face then its either the wrong gasket for the generation of your carb or theres a crack or face problem with the body or the bowl surfaces if you look at the bowl there is a small sealing rib all around the gasket face to make sure it seals by design my guess you have the wrong shaped gasket sealers wont really work and will soon start to give up and leak lay the gasket on the bowl...... look for the cock up........ bet one corner is lettting fresh air in and petrol ...out if you fancy a trip to Sunny Luton with them i can soon locate and fix your leak its not rocket science let me know Pete
  3. ive always ( i think) just connected all the same like for like together and dumped the earth red is a side lights feed colour Pete
  4. most drives are not repairable, well mend to destruction seems to fit the task. its broken due to being too long it preloads the thing hence this spacer washer is added if you can make a new square drive to make it all work fine , if the speedo doesnt work then thats not legal ....whos to know ??? certainly have aplay with the drive let us know how you get on pete
  5. so Doug do we want to make a day out from this ???? its 60miles for me if we fail we wont live it down Ha! Pete
  6. if the tunnel is a bit wonky the rubber seal is poor for big undulations , I always glue a long bit of sponge foam about 3/4" square section it fills all the wonky bits with ease. also look at the baulkhead to bonnet seal this is poor from day one but hot under bonnet air can easily get passed down to the heater intake a good sponge seal laid around the air intake thick enough to seal to the underside of the heater grill works well to improve cold air input . pete
  7. not keen on those float gaskets there's a lot showing outside, but there are a whole range of gaskets which all look about right but some dont cover the corners properly , there are changes as the carbs evolved over the years you may just have the wrong gasket many kits now come with about 5 gaskets to cover the years , doesnt help with not starting but may solve your leak take bowl off again!! and lay gasket on to see it matches all way round especially the corners Pete
  8. is there any fuel evident in the float bowls ? there 's these little slivers of hose that float about and block the back of the float needle, crafty little sods when the pressure drops they move away when you pump they appear from having the jet level with the bridge how many turns down have you given it, 3 is a good starting point when you pull the choke, is this starting valve on the side or a thames barrier that dams the throat ?? do as Doug suggests , dont use cloth/paper it may get sucked in anyone fancy a trip to guildford ??? Pete
  9. If you ever get the chance to see harness production its a dark art of manual ,automatic and lots or whiz Wang wong to get it all in place, crimped or welded we had to check out full truck harnesses with a drawing a meter , wire and bulb technology it could take all day to ring out a Magnum cab harness the fuse box alone was a drain on the coffe pot. By the time we had plugged all the ecu and relays on our homemade test bench you needed a holiday
  10. Bill at rarebits4classics used to refurb the old lucas windtone horns but really neeed to know what make and type you have thats failed originals were a variety of types then over the years anything could have been fitted some you can strip , some its mend it to destruction its generally a contacts gap, and corrosion that breaks the ciruit
  11. OOOhhhhh if we were that good ....BGT here we come ha !! the Thames and Lea olde drifters
  12. Steve ,theres a whole range of supplies for bigger diameter studs, but if you want to keep your Nuts !! then the result is dependant on the thread size in your nuts ( dont let doug thread drift into this one ) do you know what nuts you have i really didnt want to say that Pete
  13. they hide the drive well in thin finger long plier access on the small chassis cars. abandoned the yorkshire wet sheep on the friday and gave up came home a day early. there's more fish and chip shops than sheep well nearly the washer just sits in the drive to make a sort of simple spacer , any washer that fits inside the thing will space it be it copper, fibre or steel the 7/16" is the hole size . it doesnt need to be that accurate ... just find a washer in your hord of bits and bobs. if you undo the clamp plate and withdraw the whole assy you will get very oily Pete
  14. if its a lucas dizzy get a red rotor from club shop or distributor doctor, delco rotors are less problems with crap suppliers its a classic, there's always another job to add to the endless to do list chasing your tail with a few enjoyments in between
  15. from rimmers pics there is a adaptor nkc43 to convert the drive to the threaded end for angle drive 120694 which is clearly states you must have the washer fitted . if you have the aaptor the cable should screw on direct if thats a way to go , if you dont have the threaded end you could be without the adaptor and possibly a different to normal angle drive ??
  16. you can test the dizzy vac capsule for leaks by short tube and suck like crazy you should see it move the base plate. if its holed you just suck for ever . the vac capsule only improved economy no effect on acceleration or power overall. unless the link to the base has broken and the base plate is floating without control. there are a lot of new condensers and rotors which fail the rotors short out the HT to the dizzy spindle and the condensers have 3 ft of foil inside instead of 20ft. failed condensers normally create backfires and whilst it will idle it wont rev without a hole lot of serious misfiring Pete
  17. blocked slow running jet and condenser failed two simple ones to start with Pete
  18. dont ask what it does to the damper springs and the disc floating hub ouch !! clutch failures.pdf Clutch System Failures (3).pdf
  19. when they they are in you will wonder how the 3/8" managed if you have domed /capped nuts make sure the longer stud doesnt bottom out and leave the wheel loose !!!!!! cut them to suit. easy to do rears if the hubs off, from memory we fiddled them in the rears with the shoes off, some hole saw the back plate and fit them from the inside out turn the hub to align the hole and bingo. pull the studs up with a spacer and old wheel nut Pete
  20. i used 5.5j miniltes on my Vit6 175/70 13 michelins ... but upgraded to 12mm or if prefered unf 7/16" studs , the 3/8" wimpy ones can get sheared , suffer agism and generally are pretty weedy the bigger studs fit direct into the hubs rears can be a fiddle, with hub 'on' fronts need to separate the disc/hub some need a small chamfer/file if the head fouls the hub register, the best bullet proof upgrade you can do. Pete
  21. Dave is yours D or J type ? we have an area car with the cable direct fit on the OD and runs through a hole in the floor under the carpet up to the head with the std OD cable this is on a D type od. and the cable on this is a direct fit the angle drive will have failed because it does not have the 7/17" 538532 copper/fibre washer fitted to space the drive away from the gearbox many places like rimmers wont sell or warrant the drive if this simple washer is omitted. Pete
  22. any spring ( B Q) thats similar will work, it so long as the piston end locates on the steel bit not the rubber the spring only keeps the bearing held towards the fingers , its not overly important Pete
  23. http://www.chriswitor.com/products.php?cat=338 chris witor lists all the lengths available pete
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