Pete Lewis

on trucks they went to all black with a number imprinted on each wire , there could be 200 wires in a sleeved bundle, great when the marks disappear stick to something bright and colourfull Pete

Is your 2000 in std form or any mods we need tomconsider, problems like this are not model related and tend to be a gremlin with the basics does it run perfect then stop or is there any indication its about to cough and die .? ideas lack of fuel gaskets / filters obstructing carb front face ports tank not breathing fuel hoses sucking air failed fuel pump clogged back of the float needle valve stromberg diaphragm perforated electrical green corrosion on Ht lead and dizzy cap, coil terminals coil wired reverse polarity defective balast wiring if fitted wrong coil condenser, rotor and point s loose wires on point post and earth flexi electronic ign being fed with too low voltage when balasted coil fitted

my overiders were on studs with a chunky wing nut for easy removal Pete

Bills has a good reputation, Cant say where mine was sourced , and the large file of parts history went with the car when sold in june, so cant look it up the new tanks dont have the drain and as Darren says makes it easy to fit . pete

indian rubber trick.............the new ones disolve in petrol lasted 6 months , so put the old one back . yes they are a fight to get the lip past the filler and over into the panel Pete

It may help if you remove the filler grommet its a fiddle, then it pops out , its all a bit tight, getting the filler out of the wing is the usual restriction more tea pete

your welcome, youre lucky I normally go out to the workshop /car and cant remember why !!!! Ha keep your photo's coming ... inspirational Pete

Heres another small point , prop couplings have a face runout tolerance of around 0.002" maybe as much as 0.005" so any paint needs to be removed or the paint can affect flatness and give vibration, the face should be clean and dry paint makes a good lubricant , and the coupling surface grip is lost apart from that the latch recess looks brilliant pete

Good idea, most low level warnings start with some rapidnleg work, some crunching sounds and a follow through biological attack pete

You can also pick how and what topics from the , more drop down and the menu on the left scroll down it there are veiw options eg you can select latest gallery etc just topics you jav read or not works on chrome and same on tablet , my mobile has buttons ,,, says it all its a phone peter

Never come across a pourous cylinder, unusual but all is possible do you use dot4 or ......a silicon fluid One easy test ...dot 4 washes off with water but most spills are from the cap seal its breather hole, the pipe union or seal falure out into the cabin footwell So no special clues on this one Pete

Nice one glad its an easy fix pete

The interupted feed to the rockers is controlled by a flat on the rear cam journal, so the rockers get a short squirt for each turn of the cam, its not intended to be a full pressure full flow oil supply its not needed, in many cars the design has supported 40to 50 years before wear takes it toll there, s little need for any modification to do a few thousand recreational miles if it lasts another 40 years After a rebuild where, s the problem this has the same myth of oil, drain back.. in real terms it may cause alarm but just look how long the designs have lasted, really save some cash put it into fuel and drive the things these problems are not really problems pete

Ok I see where youre coming from , I would agree the old ign switch would struggle to power the piggy back Ht solenoid load but on most the orig starter sol is run direct from the ign switch crank position and should be / could used to incorporate and run the Htorque and it solenoid .. down to preferance I was always going to fit a push button,,, more nostalgia but sold the Vit6 pete

I have just used the original starter cable and solenoid, nothing extra has ever been required just a straight swap you should have with the kit a short link to power the Ht solenoid from the battery feed terminal And you need to check the current of the old bendix or pre engage unit you are looking at 100, s and much more pete

All because the holes in the plate are bigger than the bolt thread....odd bit of design, I never gave it a thought till we ground to an unceremonous halt now get on with the bodywork ha pete

There's pin normally is anfew mm below the casting, it can go anywhere as its only held in place by the crinkle bush( not the best design around) so depends how far it was tapped in by previous work. if the driver dropped in 10mm I would start to be concerned if only a couple of mm then its as good as it gets many use a replacement with a head on so it might be a rattling good fit but wont drop out and let you down , make sure the bleed screw is at the top pipe below it. make sure the pedal returns to its stop look at moving the slave towards the engine examine for wear on the clevis pin holes in the pedal and fork make sure no mats are restricting pedal travel pete

132856 x 4 Rimmers have nice photo of this little sod guess theres loads of wrong ones out there, its not till it comes out you find the problem. Its a hairy way to come to a halt pete

Also have a look down the o/s of the clutch housing you should see the end of the pivot pin its visible with a bit of searching , if the pin has dropped out theres just a hole the pin is about 8 mm dia Its held in with a tolerance ring a crinkle shim bush device these odo rust and drop out , the withdrawl lever is then running late and the slave wont travel far enough. many do have to file the slave to allow more forward fitting if the disc has stuck to the flywheel or the cover , it should not affect the diaphragm released position . pete

Think you have nailed your vibro There is a gremlin with classic repairs when you have a problem and find the culprit Once repaired you find the problem still exists many have this Tee shirt, It can haunt the best intentions thers often 40/50 years of ghosts determined to win ha pete

Jon, while its all accessible and youve nothing else to do .......whip out one of the 4 front diff plate mount bolts , have a look they should have a tapered shank as the holes in the carrier are larger than the bolt thread dia. as Ive had one naff bolt come loose here and jam the prop its both very noise stop but darn inconvenient they are whats called a wedgelok bolt with a internal sttar washer , anything else can work loose mine was a recon from a 'reputable' retailer , with the come loose std bolts fitted first time in my life we needed recovery, as not able to sort on the road side Pete

Have look at merlin motorsport, they do a range of diameters and can be bent without wall collapse. pete

In many cases its the lack of cycling (charge and dischaging) needed to keep a battery fit even the best can give up with coated plates due to lack of use, I would tend towards get a 063 as these are a volume sales unit so priced well, go for the most ecconomical with a long warranty, bear in mind a lot have reducing age warranty but some dont, when it sulphates take back for replacement, Wont be everlasting warranty but you save some ££s its all down to preference pete

dont forget they are both the same apart from the print on the dials ..all made by smiths ( now caerbont instruments... caigaug.com)

I buy some goods from ebay but always check other sites as often the prices on ebay are more than retail sites just ordered a piece of equipment , Amazon £45 .............Ebay £ 58- £89 dont get hooked and now without the Vitesse6 I dont have to troil me onions anymore . Pete