GT6M

thats the main shaft ring, that ods 3 rd gear in spot Most likely been owa expanded if re used or a dodgy after market ,n

Wimm, try the 80/140 stuff, get it 2.5 litre cans will be fine for the GB an Diff esp the Penrite pro gear oil, fully synt, dus,nt go off at high temps like the comma and others do most of em, commas is a real PITB it go,s black, an ends up like thin pish efter 200 or so miles M

for rot cars, i got a decent set of avo adjustables if yer intrested also got a set of spaxs too, adjustables note, both will require lowest settings, this is about standard setting on a non adjust type

mek yer own, will cost aboot 5-10£ in bits IF ye can weld ss that is,

the Lysegic distilate acid diffs still suffer the same problemo as normal diffs doo they still use the same CW/P the blackline ones are aif price of the normal suppliers

New shims are available, CW sells em, BUTT mostly for TR/Sals type they 2-4 times as thick as the GT/Spitty types butt, worn oot TR shims, are a good fit but, need a good few, as they not all same size whenst worn like the yans on oor cars, always 1 will wear oor faster than the other, some times there npwt thea, esp if its a fibre type niva iva use thee,s for any re builb, they be gone prity quick and the shims aint got be a slack fit, regardless of what the book says the bearing cups aint smoothe, its ridged, so shim sits on high bit efta a wee while its bedded in, an as slack as a laydee of the nights money box, they need tapped into spot and t,mek em last a bit, drill 4 wee wols in em t,get moer oil into em think rimmers an the other spots sell em failing that, get yer self some PB sheet an mek yer own ye got the moulds on the diff yer use,n all thats needed is a bigg bolt an a nut put shim between carrier an gear, an tighten up best if its heated first, as it,ll mek it easier t,bend. med loads this way, so simples Keep saying it, but dont change yer oil yer ask,n for trouble should be changed at least yance a year, ep if yer no use,n it, or it,ll end up like thee,s pics M

new t,this thread, an ne body else has mentioned it, but how ye gonna stop the dredded oil delay, wid the remote filter set up, which will be worse than OE set up, been there, tried it, took it off. ye sure it,ll have ne oil delay !!!

be ware of re building, or getting olde diffs re built can have the best possible contact patterns, drive an coast, an it,ll whine or howl can ev a contact pattern miles off on drive, but ok on coast an its fine coast generally dont get much stik, only in over run or reverse generally if the bearing pree loads, sides an pin ones, are slack then it,ll whine wid load,or on overun,or both as load will shift the contact areas, moer so if diff worn. a 1 thou shim on a criticly worn cw will move pattern alot in some instances Butt, if it whines on drive an goes quiet under load, then it needs either pin ajusted, or cw adjusted, or both. as movement has shifted contact to a quieter spot. Non of which can really be determined with any certainty untill its in car. even when try,n t,run a diff under load on yer bench, ye just cannae get the loadings that happen on the road. patterns are a guide only on olde units { some new,ns too ive found }, real life shows ye this. So just cos its noisey, dont mean folk aint tried their best Ive spent 30+ odd hours on some, a thou here, or there, , diff hights, diff side gaps all to ne good at all and cw/p look ok, but they worn oot, so best for banger race,n or a weigh in. some diffs, are v v quiet wid a 20+ play in mesh { OE 3-4 thou } but they clonk on tek up an over run Ive had brand new CW/Ps sent t,me t,re build, and just cannot get a same pattern on all teeth some are near bottom, some are near middle,some are near top, same too for the coast an CW runs true, so ne run oot, what ye doo wid them , send em back, get another, its same, spend another full week at it, still noisey, show folk the contact patterns, all owa the spot { t,get a different in pin height, then its a full diff strip doon, t,get a side thrust, a little easier, just tek the CW oot, but then ye gotta split the bearings, on a tr type, its a pain } also, what looks good wid nee load, is not same as with load an cant say for certain that a 2 shim will be ok to put it where it should be as on the other ye just did, cos in reality it wont show same contack patch due to wear on both cw/p that really cant be seen wid yer eyes. some can be done in 1/2 hour, and they look fooked some look good and are impossible t,get right so dont always blame the bloke trying his best if he,s spent a full week onit, for little money as would any body on here work 30+hours , stink,n of oil, dutty finger nails an hands for a week on a diff for 40-80£ wage, I spend it, as its a hobby M

If box rebuilt wid grease instead of SLD stuff then grease stops oil get,n t,bearings had a few wid shafts worn, an grease residue inside oft laygear this lot could be worth a punt,!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Gearbox-Joblot/283771923218?hash=item42121feb12:g:53wAAOSwkcleOYJE

I had actually considered this a long time ago, but , it be fitted t,the diff end, as I ed, still ev a remote Landrover unit, which fits in the drive line but it would require the modding of the rear chassis bit a wee bit for clearances across ways an a modded hump int rear deck bit after the seats but its deffo doo a ble this way reason I was think,n of it wer, it was perfectly possible t,pull 30mph x 1000 rpms wid a 2.5 up front as could pintle aboot at 1000 rpms in OD top, an still accel away as fast as a standard GT would in 4th but for a 4 cyl, or a 2 litre, esp a tuned ,n where torques curves alot higher, its a no go I think, yer into 2.5+ engines only

thee,s kits a pent on stuff,or a stick on reason asking is if a stick on, wid 1.5 mm strips, like the older type heated window kits then whenst ye got a doz or so lines ont window it,ll be pulling 25 - 30 amps, which is a darn sight moer than OE, or what the switch or the wires will tek, been there found oot, need bigger wires and a relay t,tek load oft switch

no no if this is any use, but I ed VS problemos for a while Yer olde,n can be adjusted, thats wot the other thingy is on top, an adjuster ev a read thru here, took frae another post else where some good valid bits, mine never runs or ran hot till aboot 5 months ago Also, noticed me oil temps ed increasd a wee bit too, reading 1/2 way at normal speeds, generally on aboot a 1/4 an a good blast it wer reading 3/4, not the 1/2 it usually is. By hot, im on aboot the temp gauge, it wer reading higher an higher as times went on, till it was reading 3/4 where it shud,v read middle at normal speeds, regardless of oot side tempps put me infra red sensor ont biits oft system, all showing its aboot normal water temps coming oot the block into rad for the stat I got in, an 88deg so decided t,look at the ECUs read oot for the temps it wer showing a swing frae 78-92 degs, note, ye wont see this sort,v swing on yer gauges, as they damped by the VS unit { even shut,n heater off for a wee while, then open it up agen will show a drop of aboot 10 degs right away for a few secs ,as the ECU readoot can be so fast.} So gauge faulty or senders seemed strange byath senders would go at same time. so fitted gauge wires onto oil temp an oil temp onto water temp an same results, so no sender an no the gauges only other thingy was the VS, bunged a probe on oot puts an it wer 11-11,5 constant volts so bunged on a spare VS, an things went back t,normal temps,or moer correctly, normal positionee,s on gauges decided t,tinkerate wid the VS an opend it up could,nt figure wot the flat ended bit of metal was ont ootside of unit untill I got it opened this bit of flat metal is actually a screw adjuster, an it operates onto the moving coil wire in side so if coil wires loos,n or gaining resistance owa the years of use, then the VS will no work same as it should de So, dont always say me engines run,n hot {unless its actually boil,n owa that is } untill yee,v actually checked on other things that its run,n hot, All thee,s yers, and never ed t,check the VS and did,nt even no that some ev a adjust bit, as in the pic Ohh, an me cars got a electric fan, infront oft rad rads fully enclosed top,bot,sides, so owt that comes thru grill opening, goes thru rad. Unlike most cars that ev v v little shrouding any where so most oft air hit,n rad, goes aroond the sides, an no thru rad. thats why most overheat at speeds, esp if yee,v got alot of bent rad cool,n fins, or lots of deed wee beasties clogg,n up the fins that stop air flow thru rad. https://www.minimania.com/images/SmithsVoltage-03.gif https://www.minimania.com/Smiths_Voltage_Stabilizers

70,s blurb for In car entertainment

I no ye found it, butt, !! i tek it that its the correct fuse, 17 cont, 35 blow. some fuses just say 17, an folk tek it that they 17 cont, but they not they mebe 8-10 blow been caught oot wid this a few times,!!! M

another helper is a tapered chisel, a long,n this goes thru the VLs holes an can be at quite an angle whenst first put in but cos its tapered, it can be pulled aboot, so holes int VL line up wid spring another tweek I use is t,put a point ont bolt going in this way it,ll feed in easier if slightly off

see them filters, wrong, totally wrong for a mechanical system OK for injectors opened by electikery, And, i see a bosche pump, has the inlet been med bigger frae tank, and also the lines too they should bve 10mm min, no the 8 mm / 5/16th of an OE which could easily be only 7 mm, as olives reduced the dia. Some home work for them wid some time ,spare, or the OE Poster want,n t,fin oot aboot His PI probs, Have a ratch aboot ont tinternet, and show me an older type Deisel filter fitted on its side or even a modernsih deisel filter on its side John, the bubbles are thea, zillions of em the tank will be shimmering wid em as the cars conk oot the pump sucks em into it, which then puts em into fuel lines then thee,s bubbles come back frae MU,PRV an go back t,tank, mekn it even wusser a vicious circle the longer it runs, thats why PIs conk oot. the original 5 had its MU an PRV fed into filter,tkeep it topped up it conked oot, soon was changed so it went into tank, butt, they did,nt fit a filter to them lines,so the mod made, still med PIs conk oot.

Col, thats cos in reverse, the wheels are point,n ootwards at the back, they got toe oot going backwards so wheels are pulling apart, which pulls car doon it,ll doo it wid v little toe in, so if its same on both sides, nowt t,worry aboot.

Best thing ye can doo is re fill wid oil, bets on the v v little init. drumming noise can come frae a dry,ish set up hoo some of em work an last is beyond me, but then they un re buildable when I get em in re the play on planets, t,me its a problem, as it causes shock loadings on tek up, an on off throttle at high speeds an loadings causes clonk,n at lower speeds in top on over run / accel, at v low throttle / feathered set,ns. main cause I think of broken teeth an split carriers. M

This is the problemo wid the PI system, some thing I found oot yonks ago, wid the use of clear lines, but did the TR Brigade listen, no, thats why their cars are constantly conk,n oot. then they tell folk to leave it for 1/2 hour fill up wid new petrol, which is cold fit a bosch pump and wrong filters, which are selt in a wrong kit, or right kit, wrongly fitted. fit a cooling coil, { which meks it even wuss after a wee while, as fuel is heated by pump, an the MU, as its fitted to engine, so gets v v hot fuel returning t,tank. or, this is best ,n, .. you have an air leak..., really, air leaking in, at atmosheric pressure, but fuel at 100 PSI+ dont get oot side the lines. !!! Air is coming frae cavitating fuel, this frae pump, PRV,an MU, an also tank inlet . it then goes aroond an aroond the system, mek,n zillions of bubbles in the tank, the tank is litterally glistening wid bubbles whenst ye look in thea, as I used t,doo t,fin oot what was going on. which is then sucked into the pump, which then starts t,get hot which then heats fuel even moer, which then boils fuel mek,n even moer bubbles in system the longer its run, the wuss it gets, untill yer car wont start leave it for 1/2 hour it,ll start wid a misfire as the frothed fuel int tank es settled, BUT the stuff int lines, as ye have seen, leaves big air pockets its thee,s air pokets that stops yer injectors frae work,n think of yer system as basicly an older jerk pump diesel set up, its pressure fed an opened, an if any air is in that type of system, then the engine will no run at all. as pump compresses the fuel t,open a valve but if airs thea, then it compresses the air, which can compress, so the valve / injector dont open, Which is what yee,v got on yer PI the MU shuttle compresses the fuel, which then compresses the air int line, which compresses, BUT dont open yer injector, follow,!! What you need t,get rid of the air int system is some filters mounted verticly, the OE CAV is correct, but pipe work is too small for inlet, so too is ootlet frae tank, it can, an does cause cavitation if a bigger bosche pump fitted the ones that really doo mek a differecns is one int return frae PRV an MU thee,s can be inline filter on their sides, as fuel will then go into a bigg bubble, and then enter tank, an dissapear v v fast to top. but biggest gains will be got frae a bigg filter fitted ..verticly.. right beside the MU wid the inlet to MU at bottom, and inlet frae PRV at top this way, all frothed up fuel an air will go to the top, leaving good ole solid fuel at bottom the longer the filter, the better it,ll wuk IF ye dont fit the filters for a while, then it,ll keep doo,n it butt, remedy is t,get some revs up when car is on the road, lift off throttle, an pull the choke full oot, doo this a few times, it,ll clear, till lines get full agen Note, listen t,the TR Brigade, then it wont work. { some ev it sussed, but vast majority ev,nt a clue } just go read the sheite they post evey week or so aboot the problems ye got. M

Err yes, but alot of work needed, see other thread on single rail into a GT Ye really need a 3 rail, as the adaptor bit is shorter too the GL will be a better fit too. M

Slightly off topic, but still t,dee wid tyre pressures Any one got a PCL type pro tyre inflator, an it aint reading correctly, as mine started t,de solutionee, adjust it, PCL say there ne adjustments, nor doo they support bits for 1,2,3 types tek the end off, rubber end comes off after 2 wee screws undun either side, pull off unscrew the 2 screws either side an just above of the air inlet this will let the innards drop oot, catch it in yer hand,or onto a rag look at it, an ye will see a threaded bit, wid 2 lock nuts If its read,n too low, then turn the end bit into the nuts, IE mek,n the end bit shorter. high, its other way mine was 6 psi , so this took nearly a full turn on adjuster tested agenst 2 well known gauges, one digi, other mechanical noo all three say same, meb,e of some use t,some. M

Some times the socket is wrong length, so it dont fit reet some times, if a grease momkey been at tappets, the threads on nut deformed, lead,n t,stick,n adjuster, that thinks its tight doon, but aint cos of bad thread Im think,n that yer valve springs are well an truely weak, hence hoo its compress,n em solutionee is t, wedge summat between the coils so it cant compress em Rodgers solutionee is sound, as it teks oot the wear that Kevin was on aboot some thing ive always said aboot, but yonks ago folk just laffed at it that gaps could be 0 thou gap, an still be 10thou in reality If yer rockers are worn, then easiest way t,set em is wid a clock gauge an on a worn set of thingys, a ..correct 10 gap should in reality be aboot 7-8, t,tek into wear int shaft, and guide.

Penrite Pro Gear oil 80/140, not the ordinary stuff as its diff, so P Tech said. git it of Dave Parker at classic group, think its 15-20 £ for 2.5 litres, muchess cheaper if got at the shows. an muchess cheaper than owt on Flea Bay 07391 590149 https://penriteoil.com.au/products/pro-gear-80w-140-full-syn ev a read thru all the blurb M

for,t last 10-12 years or so, been running a fully synth 80-140 oil in gb, od, diff, ne downsides at all, no stiff changes, slow sycro action, boxes been apart often,{ broken teeth / snapped shaft / bent shaft. } syncros fine, thrusts fine, od comes in muchess faster, even in 1st nee yella stuff on oil changes, 3 times a year some times, 2 mostly depends on hoo long been at W1+ for long periods, { 250+ degs is an oil killer, hence changes } And, it meks things a wee bit quieter too. Befoer I used this stuff, I bunged in some ATF in GB OD t,give it a clean oot, gear change was v v notchy, an GB was v v noisy drained it oot after aboot 300 miles, an bunged in the 140 stuff, niva looked back since As for the Commas SX 75-90 GL4 gear oil, total sheite, honestly, it goes black an pours like thin pish after a 500 mile thrash 200 miles at W1+ feels like pish too, nee lube quality left, like most of the others did which I tried. but, if yer a potterer, no building heat up, then it,ll be ok M

Ello Harry, Im always scepticle of just lower,n car, either frunt or back wid standard dampers fitted most ev got a cover over em, this cover hides what ye really need t,see. which is hoo much free space ye got for bump. If ye lower car wid standard shocks and lower springs, then its gonna be ont bump stops alot of the time, which will seriously effect yer cars handling ie, supension going solid, so ye tyres then become the shocker, !! If lowering the car, then ye need t,go stiffer, muchess stiffer infact on the fronts, but ye dont say what car it is, if its a GT, and on skinny tyres, then 650-750,LB,ers minimum, and 8-9 inch springs on a inch lower shocker height. cant say aboot a Spitty, as never really tinkerated wid em as much but problemos start here cos the aftermarket shockers aint designed for 500lb + springs nor ,in my findings / use, have the correct bump re bound settings they too stiff on bump, and no so much on rebound, which causes weird porpoising at speeds Ye need t,get em re valved, aboot 20-25 a go. for the springs yer use,n Most will be fine for upto 450, after that, the clicks just dont doo owt at all . esp on higher rated springs The rears OK ive found, on Gaz,s adjustable, Avos wer a little too hard on lower settings, so too wer Spaxs, the Gazs i got on rear are on 5 clicks, on a GT the AVOs wer on 0 so too wer spax, nee good at all. 15 clicks an only used no clicks, , thats not an adjustable shocker t,me. Butt, all depends on what speeds yer dooing, if just normal pottering speeds, then they be OK, summary for a GT on skinny tyres 650-750 springs wid 8 inch free length 1 inch shorter shockers and yer dampers re valved done right, the stiff springs will be a softer ride than most 330 or 440 thats offered thru the usual suspects.