jondhm

Problem solved. I took off the plastic cover and firstly tried levering between the torsion bar springs, but to no effect. Then I tried levering the springs downwards and inserted a spacer between the springs and the roof - success! So now the tailgate stays up. It is nice when a fix is simple.

And it is one of the most important tools to carry in the car. Without it you cannot get at any of the wiring behind the dashboard.

Further thoughts - you could simplify the job by just jacking up the rear of the car rather than parking on a slope - it would have the same effect and would avoid moving the car midway.

Just been out to Screwfix. Lots of admiring comments from the other customers in the queue. Amazing how many people have either owned Spitfires or GT6s, or have had friends who have owned them. Mind you, it probably says something about Screwfix customers in the middle of the day - the retired DIY brigade.

I finally got round to changing the fuel hose under the car. I had been putting it off because the idea of lying under the car while petrol dripped down my arm wasn't awfully appealing. However, the job was much easier than I thought. My method was to run the tank down as far as I dared. Then I parked on a slight downward slope and disconnected the fuel hose under the bonnet before the fuel pump. I quickly pushed on the uncut length of hose supplied by the Club Shop, and fed the other end into a fuel can. This enabled me to drain the fuel out, and I left the fuel in the can so any debris could settle out. I had to pour some of the fuel into my 'modern' but left enough in the can to refill the tank to get me to the nearest fuel station. Then I temporarily reconnected the old fuel hose under the bonnet, moved the car to level ground, jacked up the rear and removed the wheel. I put my axle stand under the car and pulled off the old fuel hose. Only a small amount of petrol drained out, so changing the hose was really easy. I did fit jubilee clips rather than relying on a push fit. I recommend you do this job outside if you can, just in case you spill any fuel and need good ventilation.

Hi The tailgate on my GT6 Mk3 does not stay fully open and I need to adjust the tension in the torsion bars. How do I do this? There does not seem to be any adjustment, so do I undo some of the bolts and put in some washers? Or do I need to twist the torsion bars by inserting a bar and levering them?

Andy Cook must have been reading this thread, because on page 34 of February's Courier is a picture of a fuel hose being changed. Really useful article on fuel pipes, thanks, Andy.

I found the 063 didn't have enough guts for my GT6 (even more so now that the main and big end bearing shells have been renewed) so in 2013 I fitted a Halfords HCB065 calcium battery which has 470 amps. I chose it by the bodger's method of measuring the size of the battery box and then going to Halfords to find the biggest battery which would fit. And it is still going (just) so I will probably replace it with another 065.

Thanks, guys. The feedback has been really useful because it has shown me where I ought to look, and has also alerted others that there is probably a fuel hose under the car which is easily overlooked with all the focus being on the hoses under the bonnet. When the weather has warmed up a bit I'll have a good look underneath - easiest way to resolve this!

Thanks, guys. This is really helpful. I have looked again at the Parts Catalogue and can see the rubber hose at the rear. The next problem will be replacing it. I think I will wait until I have the car on a 4-post lift and have someone else to help me. That way I should be able to minimise the fuel spillage (also, by making sure there isn't much fuel in the tank). John M

Hi folks Just checking the state of the fuel hoses under the bonnet of my GT6 Mk3. Are there any fuel hoses under the car I need to look at, or is it metal pipes all the way to the fuel tank? Many thanks

Suggest you don't use copper pipe. It conducts heat very well, and so increases the risk of fuel vaporisation under a hot bonnet. Interested to hear what other people think.

It is mentioned in the South Bucks section of the Courier, so you should see some other TSSC faces. Hope you have a good journey, and look forward to seeing you there.

Hi Hugh Thanks for the hint.

I have had similar problems with a dampish garage, and over the years have found that the most important thing is ventilation. Normal up and over garage doors tend to have gaps at the top and sides, but I would also recommend putting a ventilation panel in the side door, if you have one. This then means you can get a through draught. Only downside is it make the garage a bit cold if you are trying to work in it. Also, take what steps you can to reduce the damp, by clearing away earth that is piling up outside, checking guttering and rainwater drains are working. But that is for a builders' forum, not TSSC!