jondhm

Problem solved. I took off the plastic cover and firstly tried levering between the torsion bar springs, but to no effect. Then I tried levering the springs downwards and inserted a spacer between the springs and the roof - success! So now the tailgate stays up. It is nice when a fix is simple.

And it is one of the most important tools to carry in the car. Without it you cannot get at any of the wiring behind the dashboard.

Further thoughts - you could simplify the job by just jacking up the rear of the car rather than parking on a slope - it would have the same effect and would avoid moving the car midway.

Just been out to Screwfix. Lots of admiring comments from the other customers in the queue. Amazing how many people have either owned Spitfires or GT6s, or have had friends who have owned them. Mind you, it probably says something about Screwfix customers in the middle of the day - the retired DIY brigade.

I finally got round to changing the fuel hose under the car. I had been putting it off because the idea of lying under the car while petrol dripped down my arm wasn't awfully appealing. However, the job was much easier than I thought. My method was to run the tank down as far as I dared. Then I parked on a slight downward slope and disconnected the fuel hose under the bonnet before the fuel pump. I quickly pushed on the uncut length of hose supplied by the Club Shop, and fed the other end into a fuel can. This enabled me to drain the fuel out, and I left the fuel in the can so any debris could settle out. I had to pour some of the fuel into my 'modern' but left enough in the can to refill the tank to get me to the nearest fuel station. Then I temporarily reconnected the old fuel hose under the bonnet, moved the car to level ground, jacked up the rear and removed the wheel. I put my axle stand under the car and pulled off the old fuel hose. Only a small amount of petrol drained out, so changing the hose was really easy. I did fit jubilee clips rather than relying on a push fit. I recommend you do this job outside if you can, just in case you spill any fuel and need good ventilation.

Hi The tailgate on my GT6 Mk3 does not stay fully open and I need to adjust the tension in the torsion bars. How do I do this? There does not seem to be any adjustment, so do I undo some of the bolts and put in some washers? Or do I need to twist the torsion bars by inserting a bar and levering them?

Andy Cook must have been reading this thread, because on page 34 of February's Courier is a picture of a fuel hose being changed. Really useful article on fuel pipes, thanks, Andy.

I found the 063 didn't have enough guts for my GT6 (even more so now that the main and big end bearing shells have been renewed) so in 2013 I fitted a Halfords HCB065 calcium battery which has 470 amps. I chose it by the bodger's method of measuring the size of the battery box and then going to Halfords to find the biggest battery which would fit. And it is still going (just) so I will probably replace it with another 065.

Thanks, guys. The feedback has been really useful because it has shown me where I ought to look, and has also alerted others that there is probably a fuel hose under the car which is easily overlooked with all the focus being on the hoses under the bonnet. When the weather has warmed up a bit I'll have a good look underneath - easiest way to resolve this!

Thanks, guys. This is really helpful. I have looked again at the Parts Catalogue and can see the rubber hose at the rear. The next problem will be replacing it. I think I will wait until I have the car on a 4-post lift and have someone else to help me. That way I should be able to minimise the fuel spillage (also, by making sure there isn't much fuel in the tank). John M

Hi folks Just checking the state of the fuel hoses under the bonnet of my GT6 Mk3. Are there any fuel hoses under the car I need to look at, or is it metal pipes all the way to the fuel tank? Many thanks

Suggest you don't use copper pipe. It conducts heat very well, and so increases the risk of fuel vaporisation under a hot bonnet. Interested to hear what other people think.

It is mentioned in the South Bucks section of the Courier, so you should see some other TSSC faces. Hope you have a good journey, and look forward to seeing you there.

Hi Hugh Thanks for the hint.

I have had similar problems with a dampish garage, and over the years have found that the most important thing is ventilation. Normal up and over garage doors tend to have gaps at the top and sides, but I would also recommend putting a ventilation panel in the side door, if you have one. This then means you can get a through draught. Only downside is it make the garage a bit cold if you are trying to work in it. Also, take what steps you can to reduce the damp, by clearing away earth that is piling up outside, checking guttering and rainwater drains are working. But that is for a builders' forum, not TSSC!

Brilliant. Many thanks, guys.

Many thanks for the advice. I'll have a good look at the source of the leak, but am pretty certain it is the seal - having owned the car for 40 years I am virtually certain it has never been changed. I don't even think the sump bolts have ever been tightened, so the threads should be fine. But the possibility of stripped threads is making me think this is probably a garage job anyway. The next issue will be finding a garage near me in West London. Chiswick Car Craft closed down last year when Mike retired. I have had a word with people at the Ace Cafe on the classics nights, but most are determined DIYers - as I am on most jobs. I now get my MOTs carried out at The Jaguar Workshop which is 0.5 miles from where I live, but they focus on Jags, obviously. I'll just have to call it my poor man's E-Type!

I will be removing the gearbox on my GT6 Mk3 soon for rebuilding and a new clutch. There is a bad engine oil leak from the rear of the engine - do I need to remove the engine to deal with this, or is it possible to get at it from inside the car? The key question is probably whether the sump needs to be dropped - if so, it is an engine out job and I'll need to get a garage to do it as I don't have the space or equipment. And at the same time I'll replace the big and main bearing shells plus the thrust washers and oil pump. Many thanks John M

Even when using the Club puller, this can be a very tricky job. I tried all the tricks, heating it, leaving it overnight, extra leverage. But finally I hit the bearing housing smartly on opposite sides with a pair of hammers. And the combined shock wave did the trick. A bit like splitting suspension ball joints or other taper joints. Don't bother trying to make up your own puller - the Club one is a serious bit of custom kit. I've broken too many ordinary pullers over the years. Hope this helps.

I would support Peak's recommendation of a new propshaft from Dave Mac. I went down this route a couple of years ago and it has transformed my GT6.

My quick calculations show the pedal pressure, and the travel, will be about 13% greater. Noticeable, but you should be able to live with it.

And another thing! You also have to factor in rerouting or replacing the brake pipes leading to and from the servo. All in all, if I was doing it again, I would try and find a Girling servo. It may be now that they are available again, suggest you talk to the suppliers such as Canley Classics.

Correct, fit it to the front only. Many years ago the servo failed on my late GT6. From memory it was a Girling, and I could not get a new one at the time. I didn't fancy rebuilding the servo myself, so fitted a Lockheed servo. Quite a tricky job, because I had to make up a new bracket so it would fit. All a bit tight under the bonnet, so I had a real game making up the bracket with two bends in it. Possibly someone sells the bracket now, which would be much easier. You are also correct that the Lockheed servo is stronger, so less pedal effort. This is good because more akin to a modern car, so less chance of under braking when you get into the GT6. Doesn't seem to have a significant effect on the brake balance, the rear still locks up first under most conditions. Hope this helps.

I would suggest you should fit it so it operates on all four wheels. If you fit it to just the front, the rear wheels will be under-braked unless you change the wheel cylinders to the later design. I have a late GT6 with the servo operating on just the front wheels. Had to change the servo twice (bought the car in 1976), but don't let that put you off. It works fine, and means the pedal effort is more like a modern car, so easier when you switch back and forth.

I support Juppy's point of view. There is no point in the Club Shop stocking generic items you can get at the same price / quality elsewhere. Particularly in these days of Internet shopping. Once you have the name of the recommended product, in this case Dynax, you can do the sourcing and ordering very easily.