ahebron

Not a bad guess and quite close but I am working on my Vitesse. Adrian

I am dealing with parts that were powder coated back in the 90's and its not good. Spider rust on the chassis that had to removed and sprayed. The worst is cast steel/iron items like hubs that have rusted underneath the powdercoating. These are all on a car that has not been finished since the late 80's.

I have asked myself that same question a few times! And not doing it again. Looking at something like this for the next one Adrian

My latest creation but what is is for? It was a bugger to make, cutting 10mm steel with a jigsaw is not fun. And no its not part of the linisher Adrian

Are you saying your car doesnt' leak oil then?😉

I have two motorbikes in the garage with my Vitesse but how many do you have? Is that another two under the covers. Back to your question, I solid mounted mine so we shall see how it all is once I get it back on the road. Pads needed to be a lot firmer than the ones I got with a kit so I decided to delete all rubber between the body and chassis apart from the strip at the front of the tub My best advice is do it slowly, don't rush and drink tea. Be prepared to redo packers as the body pulls down and drink more tea. I put plumbers grease tape on the u brackets by the rear of the transmission tunnel. And be careful not to strip threads in the chassis, I had to helicoil one of the diff hump ones and one of the rear outriggers. Is your a Vitesse or Herald Convertible?

One word Condensation.

https://ferraris-online.com/australia-asbestos-and-the-international-maserati-gathering/

Asbestos joint on slide 22 would upset Australian customs dept.

Steve Weblin has kindly posted om YouTube the Six Cylinder engine one I sent him. If this gets you excited then..........

Hi Peter It was all good, shower doors rattled a bit, I must be getting used to them. Had another one at lunch time today, a 5.2 at the same spot. According to Geonet here has been 23 tremors since monday morning. It was nothing compared to the Kaikoura quake a few years back, that one woke me up. Adrian

Hi Tom That photo does not look like a Vitesse or GT6 radiator to me. Vitesse and GT6 radiators fit between the chassis rails and that one won't. Adrian

I have a decent double garage 6m wide by 7m deep but with a work bench at the end, floor to ceiling shelving down one side and shallow stuff stored down the other. Plus two motorbikes and a push bike, my Vitesse 6 and Rhynas car it gets a bit short on space. Shrinker/stretcher is in a crate under the bench. Photo will give you an idea.

This is what I was referring to in the dash and looking good if I say so. Sorry about the flash photo, its getting dark early here!

TBH that is the same reason I collected all the parts. Being 12000 miles from the country of origin used to make getting parts expensive and time consuming. I even parted out one of the two at the time Mk2 Saloons in NZ as it was rotten, its mechanicals went into the Mk4 Spitfire. And it helps that as we got older we forget what we have

I dismantled two gearbox overdrive/reverse light switches as they had no continuity. Tap open the crimped parts at the top and the plate should popout. The first crimped all round the edge and was full of oil so I drained it and cleaned everything then a light grease over the sliding parts before reassembling and gently tapping the aluminium edge back around the switch. The other one was crimped in three places and the contact plate looked like it had possibly been arcing on its contacts. Clean everything and file the contacts and a light grease over moving parts before reassembly then restake the edges in 3 places. Both switches working well but I would only use them as overdrive switches as the one with oil was most likely a reverse switch that had taken oil in past the plunger.

Peter that 15 amps current draw is a bit scary for an LED. If I do the maths right thats a 180 watt bulb😲😲. I reckon they got that bit wrong like many LEDs. On my Vitesse the hole is not round it is shaped to hold the green bit. Like many mine snapped the 'lens' off so I bought some green 'emeralds from craft supply shop scrapped the plastic chrome off the back and superglued it to the threaded part. Adrian

One of the many pleasures of owning a car for 37 years and collecting various parts or whole cars over the intervening years is the joy of once again finding parts long forgotten. While rifleing through my spare parts to locate a gearbox switch for my Vitesse 6 with the Dolomite 1850 J type single rail conversion I found the J type overdrive gearbox I removed from my Mk4 Spitfire last century when i was fitting it with Mk2 Vitesse running gear and a big saloon o/d gearbox. And a D type overdrive with out box which is from a Triumph Spitfire - all MK3, MK4 to August 1973 (to chassis no. FH60000 and FM10000). Then after finding the switch I was looking for I located the overdrive switch bracket and gearchange with the extension to activate the switch, that save a bit of time making one. Next is the three backing plates for Vitesse engines that I have acquired one of them only 7/64ths thick while the other two are 17/64ths. Also in bits is a HC gearbox from a Vitesse. The one item I was aware that should be there was the Type 9 gearbox with Canley conversion and a spare V6 input shaft. Adrian

Got the clutch slave cylinder mounts helicoiled today. To make the holes an appropriate size I used a dremel flexi drive with engraving cutter tool and gently took the metal out till I could snugly fit the helicoil drill into as a reference. Tap, fit the helicoil and bolt up. Nick I didnt need to trim the chassis but I did cut more out of the transmission tunnel to clear the speedo drive on the right and the solenoid on the left, that extra inch in length is a bugger. Oh err missus.

And it doesn't hurt as much when you brush a finger or back of hand against it. DAMHIK I have a Mk2 fan fitted on the front of my 1600. To give a bit of clearance to the radiator I removed 10mm off the mounting boss, I also made a pair of 4 degree tapered spacers to tilt the radiator back so it is parallel with the fan.

I have set of shrinker stretchers, still in their box. I was wondering if it would be possible to make a foot lever system that would still allow you to have the s or s in the vise? I suppose you would have to brace it to the vise to make it work properly Just thinking that way as like many I am getting short of space. Adrian

Thanks Graham but yes all I see is clean holes, I could drill the holes out and tap it with UNC or maybe make some stepped studs. I am used to doing extra jobs on this car so hopefully when I do my Mk2 Convertible I will have made all the mistakes on this one and the last one. And to be honest its more fun than working😉 Adrian

Cleaned the gearbox inside and out and took the sump off the overdrive to give that a clean. It looks like the gearbox has been used but as I bought it along time ago I cannot complain. Some fine metal on the magnetic drain plug but no bronze or big pieces of metal came out so fingers crossed, all the teeth are where they should be and look ok. I made a new mount out of 25mm box section along the chassis using the original bolt holes and I welded compression tubes for the bolts. Across the rear end I bolted a 50mm x 10mm plate with a slot in it underneath the box section. I also bolted a 25mm box section under the gearbox mount to do this I welded a 10mm deep plate across the inside and drilled and tapped it. On the underside of this I welded another 10mm plate with a drilled and tapped hole in the middle so removal of the rear mount is easier than fiddling with the two mount bolts. That extra length makes things a bit challenging! To refit I also cut out more of the tunnel to get the rear of the gearbox down to line up with the engine. The reason for making the mount like this is I didn't have an original mount and I can access the whole length of the gearbox and overdrive underside without having to remove the mount plate Started bolting up the box to the engine and got the passenger side done but will need to move the car sideways and up to do the rest. The car is stored tight to my garage shelves and is on wheel jacks so I pull it out then use my scissor hoist to lift it. Then I went 'bugger' as I stripped the threads on the clutch slave cylinder mount. Tomorrow I will look into possibly helicoil-ing the holes but drilling looks a bit tight due to the clutch arm being in the way. Plenty of ways to skin a cat. Adrian

This is great stuff. When I first fitted the gearbox many years ago I commented on a Triumph forum that the gearbox seemed to be too long but was firmly told it couldn't be so that is now sorted. And yes it is a bugger to get out, I had to cut a small section of floor by the solenoid to get it out and bend back the tunnel to clear the speedo drive. As it was built for a GT6/Vitesse as per the white marker pen then they would have fitted the correct input shaft. If I remember tomorrow I can take the cover off and get a photo of the internals if anyone is interested. Looking at the C stamped in the gearbox the bottom arc of it seems short so maybe it could be G but as this is a mongrel box does the housing number matter. I am building a new mount that will make it easier to remove as the one I made when I first fitted it does not allow easy removal with the body and exhaust fitted. Excuse the red paint that was when I had to remove powder coating that had spider rust underneath it.

Hello Its the wheels that have caught my eye What are they from, they look different.