Colin Lindsay
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Posts posted by Colin Lindsay
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Be thankful it's accessible! I just replaced the one on my daughter's Fiesta, had to remove headlamp, wheelarch liner and a lot of other gubbins to even find it. There's a strange 'point' on them that fits into a hole in the body, and it had broken off hence the need to constantly refill and the eventually discovered leak.
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2 hours ago, johny said:
I do think somethings has happened to rubber in general 😁
The population explosion would seem to support that.
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15 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said:
Slick 50?
In less enlightened times I used it in all my cars. Still have a few unused stickers in a drawer somewhere.
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
remember its a tv program made not to be questioned ,
Classic Car Garage yesterday (admittedly on UKTV Play streaming) had a white 1980s Jaguar, the owner complained that the oil gauge was showing empty, even when just filled... so they dipped the car, oil was halfway, then checked the gauge which was now showing 'a yellow line just below half-full, which is accurate'. Trouble is they showed the oil pressure gauge, and I could not for the life of me spot any oil-level gauge in the instrument cluster. Owner went away happy, I was just bemused.
This morning they had a Standard Super 10 with a duff headlight, only three wires, but the 'mechanic' had to call for help as the car was 'before his time'. I'd have thought that was one of the easier repairs, just a broken connector behind the headlamp. I like the series, but if they're going to try to pull the wool they need to look again at their audience, who will no doubt vary from the enthusiastic amateur to the expert.
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Go the other extreme: I have an Army jerry can which I fill with 99 RON for the Triumphs, but keep stealing it for the lawnmower or strimmers. I also regularly siphon the fuel from the cars in the garage when I forget to buy more. The lawnmower has already had a ticket for speeding.
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feramic.ch is still up as a website, Daniel's link is a "disguised" e-mail address so try changing the 'AT'?
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16 hours ago, Ian Faulds said:
I watched that on TV. I wouldve had a go at repairing the origonal bonnet, didn't look too bad to me. Hope they didn't throw it out!
They heated and bent the bonnet tube to get the gaps correct? Bit of a bodge there... especially given the fit of the doors to the sills.
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I'll post some photos taken over the years to illustrate, but they might not be in sufficient detail re mounting points etc. I assume the T-bar attaches to the b-post bracket with strengtheners to the seat-belt mountings and the front of the T to the mirror mount. I've no idea of how the hood works, though.
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All I can find online is Bear Claw Latches, are these the ones? I've no experience of them, don't think they're a straight fit though?
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13 hours ago, Shiv K P said:
That's great thank you both. I'll try and rotate the bezel and maybe do a bit of prising if necessary. Am I able to disconnect the wires from the back and take the gut of the speedo out through the front of the dash and try to remove the bezel afterwards once it's out ?
This will give you some idea of what to expect. There are two screw mountings as in the one to the right, with the other opposite, they require unscrewed all the way off but at least the 1200 has room to get at them. On some there is a metal reinforcing ring that goes all the way round, and the two screw mounting lugs tighten against that, not the dashboard - more common in earlier cars with the flimsy fibreboard surround and not the solid wood of later cars. Speedo and odometer drives are the two threaded ones in the centre. Three bulbs to pull out and the wiring for the fuel gauge, and you may also have a voltage regulator - a mobile phone up in behind the dash for a few photos will show you what goes where before disassembly. The speedo will pull out provided the seal isn't glued to the dash, but needs angled to clear the voltage regulator through the hole.
That large circular seal between the speedo itself and the dash is now available as a strip, which you cut to length; there's another one between the bezel and the body, behind the glass, which used to be available in the same format - I haven't need any on ages so haven't looked. Be very very careful bending the lugs on the chrome bezel, it can crack easily and I often prefer to lubricate it well then gently tap it round until it can be slid off.
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26 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
do not remove the needle .
Again in big letters: DO NOT REMOVE THE NEEDLE! Comes off easily, rarely if ever goes back on again.
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Sadly I can't get that on my Firestick, too tight to subscribe to Discovery +. I do like the show, though, Henry suits my mentality.
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One more thing to be aware of: that thick pin in the middle is the locking pin. As you rotate the key it moves out, or in, but if you remove the lock barrel, there's no longer anything holding it so it will drop out. You'll spend hours trying to find it on the garage floor so watch for it on disassembly and store somewhere safe!
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In your top photo, the off-centre one closest to the 111 in your clock-face background. You may find one side is recessed slightly and one flush (your lower pic shows what I think is the 'flush' side), so go in the other side with a pin, drift or anything else suitable and the securing bar will drop out the other side. The lock barrel will then pull out quite easily, or should - mine did.
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44 minutes ago, Pdv said:
Hi,
It looks like the end of the hood front stick, otherwise known as the header rail.
The elongated hole fits the frame for forward adjustment the other end fits the stick.
Well if it isn't that it is remarkably similar.
Steve
That's exactly what I thought it was, and what led me to the hood in the first place - it looks like the one that attaches to the header rail, but is that only in Herald / Vitesse? When I checked the exploded diagram for the Spitfire I couldn't find it.
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17 minutes ago, DaveH said:
Oh, not many, 2k spirited miles per year.
Im not definitely doing it, just researching. My mind often wanders off down deep rabbit holes! 🤪
I have the monopoly on thinking out loud here, Dave. Most of the time I don't realise how deep the rabbit hole is until I realise what I've posted...
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Treat them as any kind of plastic / vinyl; avoid anything harsh. Soap and water works well, any kind of trim cleaner or even foaming tyre cleaner and a toothbrush. I've also polished them in the past with a good body polish which seems to clean them up well.
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I assume Andrew Stone of Belper is long gone too, if that's roughly in your area? I remember buying parts from him in pre-Internet days.
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Thanks Paul; I know I've bought them before and within the last three years or so, and of course bought more than just two, (can't remember who from!) but the lovely new golden-coloured one I found recently has vanished into thin air. I'll get some of those asap.
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Looks like a part off the hood frame, 624586 below?
Also looks like the manifold bracket for a 13/60 accelerator rod and spring (but it's not angled)... or even a spotlamp bracket...
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Well, as Didier Bezace said: "Cherche on va trouve" which I think is a colloquial version of "Cherchez et vous trouveras" but I may be seriously mis-quoting him. French these days seems to bear absolutely no relation to what I was taught at school. In any case he was almost correct; I did search and found not the shiny cadmium clip I was looking for but a good original replacement, which probably fits better too. Next step, door trim.
Anyway now I'm on a roll it was churlish not to go ahead and finish it. Sort of a 'closed door' kind of thing for a full stop to this side. It's been there on the 'to-do' list for so long that it's almost an anti-climax to actually have it finished; that said I'm waiting on the clips that Gary mentions popping off inside the door and going awol, so everything has to come off again. The trim responded very well to upholstery cleaner, so the decades of storage have not caused any lasting harm, and went on almost first time, just a few clips to be repositioned. Winder and door handle too, although with the door handle there are two possible positions, and the window winder only one. I would have thought it should be the other way round as the window can be adjusted, but not the door catch? I only dropped the securing pin once, too, but spent half an hour looking for it.
Incidentally what I thought was fading across the front of that seat is white paint overspray, and comes off with petrol; indeed a lot of dirt also comes off but it does soften the vynide a bit much for safety's sake. I'll try white spirit later. All that remains now is the (hopefully) final touch for this door - the small steel trim piece under the quarterlight.
These are absolute hen's teeth, and many owners just use a piece of plain metal dowel, or else cut the fur trim so that the furry bit stops with the glass but the shiny metal bit continues on right along the door. That does work, but a few years back three of these trims came up on eBay and cost me £12.
It's interesting to note they are Unipart, not Stanpart, part number 613343, and dated 1985, long after Herald production had ended. I wonder if they were used on any other model or car of the period? A few years back when restoring the TR7 I found that some parts were used on Rovers and so still available, but these don't seem to be anywhere that I've found so far. However: they may as well be on a Herald as on the shelf, so here they go.
I think a few dots of sealer will keep that in place, no need for paint-eating clips of anything more drastic. I think that quarterlight catch is due for a change, too; it's sixty years old after all. I know there are still NOS ones out there, must go search. Coffee time!
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Well, I've just checked... all my vertical links have that circular extension on the insides, and any I've found online are the same. Now I'm wondering: does this mean that all of mine are fitted incorrectly, or what's the reason for the seeming change of fitment? What happens if I fit them as per photo? I'm going to have to experiment, just for sanity's sake...
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Try living in Northern Ireland - not only do UK suppliers either refuse to deliver at all, or else try to charge International rates, but we have firms who work on 'local' time. 'No hurry' is a dangerous phrase to use. My radiator recore took nine months - yes, only an untried spare, and I told them there was no hurry, and every time I called in to see if it was finished they reminded me of that... and the man cutting me a perspex wind deflector for the Herald for the last three months "hasn't got round to it yet, as it's still raining and sure you won't be taking the car out in that weather". I love it. You can see why it confuses me - and often galls me - when I try the same informal approach with UK firms and they just don't get it, sometimes to the point of rudeness.
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2 hours ago, johny said:
Some people have found it tight to get both inner and outer dust seals in place so the old method would give a bit more room. Also I cant see how one width of rubber seal works perfectly for both set ups so the one in the kit might, as you found, really be too wide for use with double dust seals...
I haven't managed to get to the spares store this morning, but do all rear uprights have those thick 'washers' on the inside faces, or is it just early versions that may have used one inner outward-facing cup and thick sealing ring as per the photograph? It's one of those things I've just taken for granted and now the question's been raised, I have to find out.
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TFL Project 2030
in General
Posted
It's got nowt to do with Global anything, it's due to the fact that someone died recently from (I think) asthma caused by association with road fumes. Reduction of UK Road Traffic or at least increased revenue from same is the goal to fund TFL alternatives.
As for the Tories going "Khan" I'm still waiting for Labour to stop shouting "Thatcher" for everything from bad roads to bad weather.