Colin Lindsay

+1

Try this theory - the sponge is supposed to act as a spring between the tank and the bracket so that it can flex as the car drives, and especially with the weight of a full tank above, whilst still keeping a seal against the boot floor. This allows condensation from the tank and any water getting in through the boot lid seal to drip out, but keeps the bracket tightly enough against the floor to prevent water coming in from underneath as the Herald drives; as the sponge compresses and expands during driving it mops up excess water inside then dumps it out below when compressed due to the car bodywork flexing. Of course it could also just be a drain that requires periodic emptying by pressing the bracket up from underneath to allow water to run out... BTW use a proper seal if you can, some modern versions (if you can find any) are merely sponge that actually holds water and so rots out the boot floor.

Grind very carefully through the folded-over outer edge around the door, don't damage the inner frame but you can separate the folded bit from the main skin and it should then just literally fall off.

Too modern for me, those fancy later carbs... but nice to know there's nothing wrong with the eyesight!

Excellent job, pin this as a sticky thread... although I hope it's just the angle, the needle in the first pic looks to be at an angle compared to the piston... :0 Just about to start on a Stromberg for a 1200, it's been years so wish me luck.

Nice bodywork! I dream of having a rear tub like that one....

+1 on that... a lot of irate drivers on other forums... but if you have a "Triumph" in inverted commas, or any shell with modern engine and gearbox, modern drivetrain, brakes, seats, dashboard etc you can hardly claim it's original and worthy of exemption...

Original ones are going to be rare as hen's dentures but if you want something similar, I bought two aftermarket versions for my 1200 rocker; one of them was fitted back in 2008 and has sadly suffered from poor storage in a damp garage ever since. (you want to see the state of the car that it was on, due to same damp) I just searched for chrome lozenge filler cap and got this type. Some rummaging will find my spare cap and I'll fit it once everything is cleaned up again. Regular polishing would have kept it pristine so it's not the quality of the item that was the problem, just the storage. Holden Vintage and Classic have a range of aftermarket caps, it just depends on whether or not you see any you like. https://www.holden.co.uk Motorsport websites have a good range of similar, I like the Monza style which is very nice.

I'm debating graphite powder dusted lightly on the splines; it shouldn't attract dirt and if used sparingly won't fling off onto the clutch plate.

I've been working on two Herald 1200 heads recently and have just noticed that on one, the water delivery tube appears to be completely missing. Does anyone know of a supplier / source for a replacement one? Secondly on the lower picture you can see gaps between the edge of the tube and the metal of the head; how concerned should I be about water / pressure escaping round this? Should I fill them in with chemical metal before fitting the pump housing?

NOW you've started me wondering if I've got a washer on my GT6 overdrive conversion.....

Use your existing rotten mount; find whichever size of bolt you intend to use then pack the remains of the mounting with one or more nuts of the same thread; go for a size that will fill the mount from side to side as well as from floor to top. If you know anyone who can weld, a tack will hold them in place. The bolt for the seat then screws through these upper uts before going through the floor and out below. A nyloc nut under a large washer on the underside of the floor will hold the bolt once fitted and stop it pulling through the metal, but the nut / s inside the floor mounting will strengthen it and prevent it from compressing as you tighten against the one on the underside, and so keep your seat level. Personally I'd still get Chic Doig to make a new mounting or get you a S/H one off an old tub. Mick Dolphin may also have NOS ones.

You can buy proper clutch grease, but I haven't managed to find a local supplier. https://www.zf.com/brands/en_de/sachs/technology_in_practice_sachs/useful_tips_sx/clutches/tip_greasing_hub_sline_of_clutch_disk/tip_greasing_hub_sline_of_clutch_disk.html

Without knowing the exactly correct details I believe the number stands for piston size ie 14 were bigger pistons than 12 and 16 have bigger pistons still, regardless of the mounting points. As they weren't made by Stanpart I'm inclined to believe that the same calipers were used on different marques. Type 14 have four bolts holding the two halves together while 12s have only two, so this may point to the bigger piston being able to exert more force on the disc. Type 12 and 14 can be interchanged - usually upwards rather than downwards - as they have exactly the same mounting points, but 16s are different. I think that the PB calipers use metric connections while the others are imperial?

Did you take the gears out or the rear extension cover off? If reverse gear slides out of the rear of the box too far then the reverse arm can slide off the gear completely and so won't move as it should until re-engaged into the slot on the reverse gear assembly. Unfortunately this means taking the rear cover off again and sliding reverse back until the arm re-engages.

Electric thingies?? Wouldn't touch them. It's natural wood and acoustic resonance for me, like a Herald dashboard with strings... Song, Pete?? "If I had a decent wage, I'd soon afford a gauge, but as I'm in the poor camp, I can't even afford a clamp.... awaaaaahhhhhhh"

Same as Apple - I got round it by copying the string of asterisks, then pasting it into Chrome.

There weren't badly made springs, they were correct for certain models and incorrect for others - suppliers were selling one-size-fits-all for some time. The larger eye version is for Spitfire 1500, I converted my GT6 to swing spring and used a S/H spring only to find it hit the rear brake hose. I bought a proper late-GT6 spring and it was a lot smaller, so nowhere near the rear hose. Of course I had to replace the rear wheel cylinder and hose too due to the damage that the spring had done whilst driving.

I'm having a few problems posting photographs to albums ( - 200 error???) and am putting it down to Apple Safari which to be honest is dreadful at present; lost connections, can't find this or that, and lots of 'cannot connect to the Internet' messages where everything else is ticking away. I thought I'd try Google Chrome but when I enter the password it tells me that it is incorrect; what I assume is my usual password doesn't work. Safari uses some weird gobbledegook of random letters or numbers so when I go to preferences, and look at the passwords, they're all encrypted gibberish even though that's not what I used for the forum initially. It won't show the word I used, even though I know what it should be, and the copy / paste option doesn't work. On the forum preferences, if I go for the 'password' option, this is only the opportunity to change the password, not see what the current one actually is - which I'm supposed to know already... I don't want to change it, just use it in another browser. Any way I can find out what it is? I'm logged in ok, through a one-click log-in process, but have no idea of the password.

See my post further up, they don't list Herald springs and didn't reply to my e-mail enquiry a few months ago, so I can't confirm if they sell them or not.

That is one excellent car! Keep the dynamo, it's something original and to be honest I've started to appreciate cars with them again, probably for their rarity The photos are a good reference for me too as I'm rebuilding a Herald from a not-so-good-anymore memory.... can't remember how things go!

Hopefully got it sorted; I've gone for the shorter arm which had the curved bearing, as opposed to the longer one with the flat bearing which looks to be for the coil setup. All assembled now so to late to go back. The bearing is just a press fit (no hidden dowels or pins to catch me out) and the new one went on very easily once the housing was in the freezer for ten minutes....

+1 although mine are the soul of the engine, any other spelling can become a bad halibut

I think you're correct as the new bearing is also curved... What about the size of the bearing mounting? There's at least an inch difference... so that would put the bearing considerably farther forward against the clutch. I'll be replacing the bearing anyway, and the complete clutch kit I've had salted away since the last millennium (honestly!) has a curved bearing for the diaphragm setup. I can't take the chance of building up the wrong assembly, and having to strip it all down again once the car won't drive... so I'll opt for the shorter one with the curved bearing. If I can work out how to remove the bearing, and replace the new one...

You mean to clean it, or to keep damp out? I'd use an antistatic foam-type PC cleaner for components suck as the case but the electrical bits don't usually require cleaning. I'd not try AC50 or WD 40 on the electricals, it'll do more harm than good and attract dirt.