Colin Lindsay

If my garage contents weren't in a huge collection of boxes at present I could probably have found an old one...

I have a fully rebuilt GT6 MK2 Delco model, rebuilt by H+H Solutions with points rather than electronic, and never used as I had another one refurbished at the same time with electronic ignition fitted. It won't be cheap but on the other hand it will save you having to have it reconditioned yourself. Any use?

Centralise the steering and then measure each side, edge of tyre to bulkhead or front edge of sill. This will immediately show any major imbalance / damage or distortion that may not be visible at first.

If they were still attached, you didn't drive correctly when you were there....

I think he means a rocker lubrication mod and is referring to rockershaft wear... I hope! The sill profile is quite.... curved... along the lower edge. Nice car but little things like a rusty water pump let it down when looking for top values.

Isn't thread something that pokes out of the seams of your seats? So thread drift is where you go round a corner too quickly and the thread slides sideways. Anyway must go and search Fa**y stretchers on the Net..... might give me as much of a selection as my search for 'Chelsea Blue'. I was looking for a shade of paint. How was I know to know it was an 'exotic' female? Some of the photos still give me sleepless nights...

Lovely car, lovely colour and superb panel gaps.

Electronic ignition in its' most basic form only makes for a more reliable spark at a more precise time; it can overcome worn points to a certain amount and thereby give a stronger spark allowing the gap to be opened slightly.... running a hotter coil at the same time will improve the strength of the spark and allow it to jump a larger gap.

Ooze, eh? Ouzo, no less.... plus Tsiporo, Mythos beer and the other staples of life in the cradle of democracy. Not to mention a certain clear concoction with which my mate Stavros filled my glass, and when asked what it was tapped his nose and replied: "Even the Government doesn't know about this stuff...."

Thanks guys I'll go with Cheese Head. Incidentally, here's one of the reasons I love this forum - four diversions from the original question in only eight replies. It's like a virtual natter round a pub table. Yes I do remember Bernie the Bolt, not to mention Anne Aston as well.... ooooohhhh... similarly I have a huge container of woodscrews all of which have three specimens per type when I require four matching ones. Anyone eaten Sheep's cheese? Last time in Greece..... I was sober too. And finally... bl&&dy spellchecker asks me "did you mean Ship's theese" WHAT?????

H y'all - I need a few of this style of bolt to rebuild a new sandblast cabinet I'm working on; the head is perfectly cylindrical with no taper or dome. Anyone know the proper name so I can search for some stainless ones in 8 x 1.25?

It's certainly gale-ing hard here in Armagh and not set to improve much over the course of the day.

Simple point but one that we all find out the hard way - lights such as the headlamp illumination or oil pressure use 'straight-ahead' leds, but dial illumination needs to throw the light about and so needs multi-directional leds. All easily obtained in any colour of your choice. Even I was able to do it!!

If you don't have a long nosed rivet gun use a small piece of suitable diameter pipe - brake pipe works well - over the rivet shank to extend the reach of the rivet gun.

Eminently repairable to 'as new' appearance. Here's the three steps of repairing quite substantial holes revealed by sandblasting: 1. Take it to a mate who welds a Frankenstein patch over it. 2. Remove patch by grinding and attempt a filler and mesh repair. 3. Give up and send it to a good bodyworker who returns it looking like new. Photos in order...

Same as valve springs, it's just a case of the strength required...

You can use a Jerry can, same idea but more driver-friendly. A length of plastic pipe over your shoulder and you can sip as you drive.... (Disclaimer: at no point am I advocating drinking and driving, neither endorsing nor recommending it, this is merely a throwaway remark along the lines of a humorous aside and should be taken as such. I take no responsibility for anyone reading this who decides to follow my hint and thereby breaks the law, or gets poteen stains on either his trousers or the seat covers, or spontaneously combusts whilst lighting a cigarette after imbibing. In any case I never mentioned that the jerry can should be filled with poteen, I was actually thinking of water. Don't drive and dehydrate. The value of your house can go down as well as up. Terms and conditions apply.)

Oh yes, in between the rain showers it can be quite sunny indeed. I have a photo to prove it, somewhere... In any case, you'll love it.

The ones I bought at the International a few years back were cone-shaped where they feed through the bonnet and so easier to install. I'll post a photo if I find them.

Early GT6 got the 672, both Mk1 and Mk2 versions. Thankfully they're readily available both new and second-hand, as I seem to break one off every time I walk past the rear of the GT6; similarly a lot of people at shows, particularly children, like to head-butt them off then have their parents glare at me accusingly for not obeying elf-n-safety and coning the rear of the car off.

I had read some time back that the 6-spring coil clutch - the version I had purchased a few years ago NOS, wrapped and sealed off a stand at Stafford, believing it to be a 9-spring - wasn't up to the 1200 engine but was more suited to 948s and Standard cars, and I really needed a 9-spring version to cope with my 1200. Consequently I may use the clutch plate but refurbish an old 9-spring cover by replacing the springs. The alternative - to prevent me finding out the hard way - is to use all the other components off a later Herald and convert to diaphragm.

....and welcome again! Post away, only one week to go until the car becomes a reality!

Make sure that the distributor isn't fitted 180 degrees out; this would account for the engine not being at TDC (how far off is it? - leads fitted to one terminal in front or behind their proper place on the cap will also put it way off the mark, even though it may still run) plus the vacuum unit pointing in the wrong direction may indicate the dizzy body is turned right round to compensate....

It's entirely possible - given the curve at the middle - that it's for an early GT6; this would reflect the angle of the grille. My early nudge / bumper bars also have this curve. I'll measure the distance between the front overriders on mine and see how close it is.

I don't think it was a mistake but possibly an experiment with a more modern looking lens or light pattern? The other variation - the 672 - has a larger reflector but smaller bulb area; perhaps it was for safety reasons at night? It may have been brought in just too late for any large-scale supply as the Mk4 was just around the corner, and there were a few variations to the rear of the MK3 in the final year of production. I've found a photo which shows the difference in both lenses for other interested parties.