griffipaul

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/766161318084967/ Met guy selling this at show today. Not connected to him or car at all we talked cos I was displaying a Vitesse. Selling because he is losing storage facilities. He wants the car to go to an enthusiast to get it as it should be. Described as a Rover because he reckoned he vould not get Faecesbook ( deliberate ) to accept Triumph. Comments on this fact are NOT required. So I said I would get into the Tssc arena. Could be the basis of a good car for someone. Any interest contact Mark Williams on 07964025172 NOT ME.

The club cover was listed as suitable for both gt6 and vitesse till I bought mine a while back and complained that it did not fit. This is the same item as sold by Moss. to get it to fit I cut the raised flanges off the sides as they were way deeper than the seal height . The lever hole needs repositioning by cutting the aperature area offset by half the error and turning it round and aralditing in see attached photos.

The original colour was called Ceramic I think ,

Hammerite smooth silver is close , have done mine that colour it does not look wrong

My Vitesse mk 2 has spacers on the stering arm I presumed they were to ensure cleaarance between the vertical link and the arm castings such that the machined faces clamped together.

I bought a set of Tex blades and arms cannot remember if from club shop but they were absolutely useless. Complained to Tex at NEC show and they replaced them with ones that were just as useless . Looking for replacements so Pete's link info intrigued me as it lists flat screen and curved screen blade options so does a Herald / Vitesse use flat screen or curved screen blades , not knowingly come across this option before.

Any one seen this happen before ? Car is vitesse mk 2 Failure is between rear mounting lugs. had a strange noise from rear for a while but not able to track it down , a road speed related metallic rubbing type noise was only with power on , nothing with power off but when on cusp between the two sounded like a tinkling bearing type noise . on a run yesterday when accelerating hard there was a load bang from the rear and power off noise was now evident much more prevalent than power on hard to describe but limped home and jacked car up on rear uprights to run with engine on to ascertain what noise was. Started engine put car in gear and raised revs a bit . Suddenly a horrible noise from the rear end , investigated to find a lake of black oil under the car and broken casing pieces. broken piece is 2.5 " x 12 approx looks like evidence of witness marks inside.

RESULT - 150 mile run yesterday and still holding full torque.

New nuts and washers arrived from Canley's , usual excellent service . comparison photo below , but detail is interesting. washer thickness existing = 4.98 , new Canleys = 3.8 , difference = 1.18 nut height existing = 14.47, new Canleys =14.0., difference = 0.47 but significant difference in nyloc position and depth by approx 1.5 mm so with canley set up i have additional 3.15 thread protrusion into the nyloc. as per my previous post I had considered really thin nylocs , but not sure that they would withstand torque applied With existing I can screw nut all the way with no prevailing torque , but with new set up I can feel nyloc resistance well before grounding. So I have torqued up new set up and see how we go Sunday. But I suspect the real issue is the shaft threads , Can someone confirm that shafts should be threaded to the end because both of mine are not . So I did not suspect anything wrong. I always wondered why the WSM said to protect the threads when removing hub , cos i dont have any on the end to damage I therefore suspect that over the yrs previous work has resulted in thread damage and they have been cleaned up to allow nut fitment and compromised the thread engagement. Can anybody confirm my suspicions below is previous photo I have of other side which is in similar condition but holds torque and as best I can get on the problem side without taking wheel off

No sign of thread engagement with nyloc ring thread length is approx 11.25 giving approx 8 threads , washer does not look to be hardened and can be filed shows nut witness on one side and hub on other have taken a punt on Canley nuts and washers.

Thanks Nick I ' ll bear that in mind

Washers were replaced new when I first did the roto couplings a few yrs back , will check paperwork to see where they came from , probably Paddocks , suspect they are ok but will check them out just to be sure. Hopefully will get some nut dimensions from Canleys when they open Tuesday and go from there either with new nuts or Loctite . Have a good run scheduled for next Sunday so that will test it . Will keep torque wrench handy and check regularly. When i did the wheel studs this hub came off comparatively easy compared to the nearside , so perhaps splines are worn . New hubs are availlable but shafts are a bit more problematic in more ways than one.

Thanks trigolf I suspected they were metric.

Thanks Nick , interesting. Important to understand why something is happening before attempting to fix it. Initial investigation centred on suspect parts. Could this have been compounded by the fact that the two times I have had the hub off I did not mark the splines and replaced in a diferent orientation. Pete found stake nuts online but no evidence to say they are unf . Thanks for looking anyway , CDD CV shafts use a stake nut but do not advertise spares.

All the usual suspects list nyloc nut against oe p no 510618. but is it the correct part . it is an engineering issued number as opposed to a standard generic hardware part number from the Triumph hardware catalogue. Grimmers show 510618A , where A suffix indicates alternative as far as I know. I only buy from them if I really really have to. Too many bad experiences I'm afraid. Canleys are usually very helpful I,ll ring them for a height dimension and compare that with what I have got. 145 Nm is mid tol torque 112.5 lbft

You may recall from previous posts that last summer removed rear hubs to fit longer /stronger wheels studs. To cut a long story short now we are getting about a bit , offside hub nut keeps coming loose within 100 miles. Always thought nyloc engagement was poor / non existent but is same on both sides . Nuts were replaced new from Paddocks and tightened to 145 nm . Have now tried to get 'genuine ' nuts from Mick dolphin but he sold last ones recently. I marked nut and shaft when rebuilt last summer and its returning to original position so don't think anything has collapsed / moved and there was no indication of a loose nut when hub remover last summer . Thin nylocs are available but with high tightening torque not sure sufficient threads engaged. Also cannot find a UNF stake nut either Anybody know correct nut spec and who sells em In absence of anything else will try Loctite threadlocker . any thoughts o wise ones ? Paul

All off and stripped down, some observations. Considering spline had moved freely on hub sufficient to push roto back only a few days previously it still took some effort on the puller to pull hub and vertcal link assy off the shaft , hub came out of link ok with a drift from the inner side . Rotoflex had sheared at the core and debonded at the trasverse metal plate. Interestingly I bought the couplings a couple of years or so back when the club were pushing Firstline as the new supplier , but looking at them now they are marked as G M which are the same as the new one I bought from Fitchetts, which are alledgedly not good quality. Club have not advertised rotflexes from anybody for a while. So are Firstline G M in disguise or were they old stock. Shaft has .148 spacer worn by about a thou and no shims. Hub slides on splines ok til engages with shaft dia then its tight , how much load should it take to push all the way home. Not forcing it at this stage Nothing obvious visually . Want to make sure everything it right before swopping studs and checking bearing float cos that will involve buulding and stripping a few times. Relevant photos attached

It sure did , always wary first time doing a job like this

Tried wedging bar between inner ond outer spiders which is what I must have subconciously done on the otherside and discovered that the f.....ing roto has sheared. So it Is off with the lot. Just goes to show that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. Only replaced them 2 years ago . Boll.....s

So one side went fine , all back together with new studs. But the otherside is fighting back. Hub is stubborn , wont budge even with 3 leg puller, all that is happening is its pushing the outer drive shaft back in distorting the roto, worried in case do more damage. Any suggestions ? Last resort is to pull off vert link assy with shafts , push shaft through and attack hub from the rear ,

It sure did , always wary first time working on iners of rotoflex hubs , think I understand them now. Replaced roto couplings a few years back when I refurbed the rear end ,was not as bad as I thought , used Nigel Clark out of a mag method. As always good advice helps first time around. P.

Pete Lewis now look what you've made me do. Did the hub come off by hand......nope Have I got a puller ......nope. Can I improvise ...yep Did I get it off yep. Did it come off on its own .....nope ....It came off with brg and oil seal. Will worry about putting it back together later Oh yes and found another cracked Cosmic alloy....one good one at the moment just one to go.

Great Pete , it gets better by the minute, hopefully when I go in the garage to tomorrow it will have removed itself.

Cheers Pete sound easy (not) So when you pull the hub off what comes with it ? presumably outer bearing race and oil seal , how do you ensure oil seal goes back in correct position on re assembly.

cheers Gary They are Canley supplied , M12 , guess they are L Rover. they are approx 9 mm longer. seen stories that longer studs can be fiddled in without removing hub but length has never been qualified. have not fitted them yet still to do wheel and tyre clearance checks and thread engagement 175/70s on 5.5 minilights 25 mm offset replacing 165/80s on 6.0 Cosmics 25mm offset. Fronts fit fine . Just anticipating worst case of what's to come...Rain stopped play today will investigate tomorrow P.