griffipaul

Colin as suspected I have nothing that early. The CTVIA sequenced number could be a manufacturers reference , shoe returns springs were common across a particular type of drum brake range varying only if they needed modifying to clear the rotating hub or fixing screws but this was unusual . so yes you could get the same spring used across a whole gambit of drum brake assy part numbers that varied due to w cyl size , shoe width , frictionmaterial , backplate fixing configuration , offset ( dimn from mounting face to shoe width centreline. where did you get the info from ref Commer …..David brown etc , that may help to narrow it down to a specific drum brake type.

I'll have a look in my archive but 50s may be a bit early get back to you.

we meet at the Lighthouse Pub , Beach Road St Brides NP10 8SH last Tueday of the month 7:30. you are welcome to come along and see if you like us and all about our activities.

Thanks guys for the clear and prompt response. You even beat Pete Lewis !!!!!!!!!!. I 'll be sure to check clearance before and after changing mounts. I have found a reference in the manual text on engine removal to "packing pieces" but they are not shown in any diagrams or spares catalogue listing. Normally these sort of things are shown as part number and quantity A/R - as required. I presume they are suspension shims.

Setting out to do steering rack mounts so whilst I am at it will also fit new engine mounts. Just noticed today that there appears to be what look like suspension shims between mount and engine bracket . There are 2 both sides . Thos does not seem right to me. The replacement mounts I have are heavy duty TR6 mounts as std mounts for both are identical. Suspect shims are a bodge for duff parts but they look really ancient.

Anybody got recommendation for quality steering rack gaiters.

Here's a pic , hope it loads ok never done it before

When I took the diff out my Vitesse on my own I used my old black and decker workmate ( 40 yrs old - best thing I haver ever bought , and not cheap back in the day )as a lowering platform with a scissor jack under the work surface to lower it down. used a similar method to refit it

thanks Pete I guess its a look and see job when I get it apart then.

Thanks Pete as usual gems of wisdom.. Meant shopping over for o/d conversion bits..... this years winter project …… Planning to start after Christmas.

Right , confusion over. I know understand. I have found o/d exploded view showing speedo gear inside o/d. I had wrongly assumed that as non o/d gear is pressed onto the g/b mainshaft so was the o/d version. I am now clear on what goes onto mainshaft and which bits I still need to get . hopefully this is the last of the shopping. P,

yes Pete I meant the retention of the speedo gear onto the main shaft. Trying to identify if there are other parts I need to purchase that are either not reusable on my current non o/d shaft or different on the o/d version. Overdrive came with adaptors , angle drive , pinion and rear flange and got a clean bill of health from Overdrive Spares cannot find a picture of the exposed part of a fully assembled o/d main shaft sticking out a box with o/d removed anywhere. Managed to order pump cam and keyway today at good price from Moss who were only people with stock .. so we are getting there . Some confusion over cam retaining circlip at the moment , Spares manual says p no is 137308 but Rimmers and Canleys say this is for j type . Rimmers don't seem to list a specific d type part and Canleys say d type part number is 139532 but illustrations show this as differential part ( in line with spares manual ) spose could order one of each but he buggers are the best of nearly 4 quid a pop …. for a wire clip !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Suspect that 137308 is the right part . thanks for your help. P.

Thanks Pete for the info . Why are things not as easy as they are made out to be . Do you know if speedo gear retention method is the same for o/d and non o/d d type options. P.

Just in the process of getting the final few parts to upgrade 3 rail 4 synchro mk2 box . I already have a new mainshaft TKC923 and d type overdrive from a GT6. Just looking through the excellent pdf documents used on twiddle day and think I may have missed something Looks like I will need to get a new speedo drive gear . Am I correct in assuming I will need to purchase p no 506099 in lieu of 119131 ? Is the fitting method of these identical ie push fit or is it circlip and ball ? As they say the devil is in the detail. The conversion kit listed in the mk2 parts manual does not mention anything about this but does list pinion 506119 replacing 119100 Overdrive came with angle drive and pinion fitted. Cheers guys Paul.

i bought one recently that was a bugger to fit cos it was too short ... could 'nt be arsed to get it all out again so I made an extension spacer piece out of a clevis end

The proposed legislation talks of an increase in power to weight ratio of 15%. will invalidate historical status . There is a cut off date for the mods but I cannot recall what it is at the moment.

I have a Vitesse mk2 and a tr6 with 2 and 2.5 engines respectively. Both sound fabulous but the 2.5 being longer stroke is not so smooth . Many say the 1600 6 cyl original is the smoothest engine Triumph produced. With the impending mot / tax changes I would be wary of buying a modified car till the dust settles .....All those who have done tr7 to 8 conversions may be feeling a bit nervous also.

Cheers Pete , guess I'll fit a washer when I put it all back together.

Pete Lewis , copper washer is listed on A and j type applications but not D as far as I can see , just about to do D type on the vit . Got what looks like OE angle drive . Do I need copper washer or not ?

If it's good enough for you Pete .......it,s good enough for me . Could be a song me thinks ..............Cheers

It occurred to me just now that the top of the rad is lower than the thermostat housing. Such that the thermostat housing has no water in it when the rad is full. As the system expands when it gets hot this will naturally filL with water, then contract as it cools .It will never pull any in to fill this from the overflow bottle as the equilibrium pressure point is with air in the system. cooling is marginal on these cars so would it be beneficial to fill the top area through the thermo housing. Is this normal. Sign of another issue or am I worrying unnecessarily?

I believe the infill panel in the bootlid was painted Ceramic - anybody got a paint code reference its not shown on the Triumph code list.

Alternatively look in the WSM for the figure for a bolt that is the same diameter.

Will shortly be reassemling joints on rotoflex Vitesse. I m sure the ones i took off and dismantled had the nipple facing half shafts. So now confused.

Well every cloud has a silver lining once you get through the fog. As stated previouslyall the usual suspects do not list bushes or links. So in an effort to check out if bush was same size I went on superflex website, this lists all part numbers. But confusingly I could not see the telescopic damper bush listed but lo and behold I found the lever arm eye bush listed. Part number is SF498-0718-80-2KSS. not cheap tho , Just over £30.00 inc postage for two but a least I know its the right part. Perhaps Garth should see if he can stock these also. Many thanks for your help guys you helped me get there.