Mark B

The brackets slide under the rear tub to chassis tower mounting bolt, and is also bolted through the eye of the original shock top mount (heralds, mk1 Vit) so the brackets will be tight up against the rear tub tunnel, which is correct.

I've used the glass filters inside the boot on spitfires, but decided against fitting one under the bonnet, very unlikely to get hit by a flying stone, road debris, but, sods law etc. Didn't want to take a chance. I know the early fuel pumps had a glass dome, but decided to go with the plastic filter before the pump on the Vitesse.

In my opinion cars look better sitting low. I have lowered Spitfire's, Vitesse's etc. My very original untouched, rat look (rough looking) mk2 gt6 still had all the original springs, shocks fitted, 20 years ago when I purchased it. It always sat very high at the front, but was comfortable to drive. I lowered it, and looked great to my eyes, but was uncomfortable in comparison. I ran it for years like that, but with the increasing amount of speed humps, etc. I used the car less and less. Recently I raised the front end with one inch spacers, I previously had removed the one inch lowering block from the rear. I have the original springs somewhere, and one day may reffit. Originally Spits and Gt6's sat suprisingly high at the front, but lots have been lowered, so you forget what they looked like out of the factory. Personally I would fit as close to original spec springs, shocks as possible for a road going car, more comfortable, and you can just about navigate speed humps, cushions? etc. Without ripping the bottom of your car off.

I did this on the Vitesse, replicating the original sound insulation. Heat Sealed in rubble sacks, so won't get wet. https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7484-vitesse-sound-insulation/#comment-98794 Scroll to the bottom of the thread for photo.

I fitted Hs6 Sprint carbs to my Vitesse, only other mod is a 6-3-1 exhaust manifold that will help with flow, they needed mixture set, goes well, just keep an eye the colour of the plugs. You may have sprint hs6 fitted, because you need the sprint short dash pots to fit under the gt6 bonnet. Very important to make sure the carbs are balanced, straight forward process using a carb balancer, I've used a Gunson version for 30 years, basic but works, but makes a world of difference if they are out balance

Resprayed my Vitesse a few years ago in cellulose. I'am careful not to get drips of petrol on the paintwork. It will wipe off if done immediately without marking, but if left on a flat surface the paint will go flat with a white chalky appearance, but it T-Cuts off easily. It took a year or so for the cellulose paint on my car to fully dry, and even now if it's rained on and the sun comes out it will leave outlines of the rain droplets in a couple of places. Spoke with the suppliers and manfactures at the time, and they suggested it could have been the under coat not fully cured before top coat was applied. I followed the udercoat manufactures aplication, curing time etc. so not sure. My dad was a paint sprayer and I would help him as s boy, in the early 70's, with masking up etc. He would spray a car in cellulose, leave it overnight to cure, unmask and it was ready to go. You could polish it out if required in a couple of days if careful on edges etc. I would guess the cellulose back in the day was different mix, probably more toxic, but it worked well.

About a year into the restoration of my Mk3 Spit. Removed the black plastic dash panel molding, very fragile, as welding/grinding was getting to close for comfort. Surprised to find a strip of masking tape stuck to the metal dash panel with 'No Tally' written in biro. Obviously stuck on there by a worker during production, just curious of what it was referring to, and also the fact that they fitted the dash molding over the top without removing it. Snap shot of a working day at the Triumph factory.

I've used the glass type on a Spitfire but secured inside the boot with a section of old rubber water hose, slit along its length around it. Conveinient to check and clean out any rust particals from the tank. Personally I wouldnt feel comfotable with it exposed to the elements, under the bonnet etc. Just in case road debris, stones etc were to hit it. Very unlikely but sods law etc.

Does the piston lift and drop freely when lifted with your finger. It can bind if the dash pot is not central, or screws are tightened up unevenly.

I have two Spit Mk3 bonnets. The blue one is a 1968, the white a 1970. I never noticed before, but the holes where the bonnet stay attaches to the inner wheel arch are different sizes. The earlier bonnet has the small hole that I remember, the later white bonnet has a large hole. I cant remember seeing this on any other Triumph, Vitesse, Herald, Gt6 or the later 1500 Spitfires. Has it worn through or been drilled out? or is there a large bush that fits in the hole? I can only remember there being a small hole, nut, bolt and spacer on all the bonnets?

My mk2 gt6 Speedo was 10mph off across the range. Sideways forum put me on the right track and worked for me. Not sure if your Speedo is 7mph under across the range. You may want to have a read. I also have a gps dash top speedo, (ebay) used for more accuracy in the 20mph zones that are now everywhere ane enforced locally by mobile police cameras etc. https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/9438-gt6-over-reading-erratic-speedo/

The SU Hs6 carbs fitted to my Vitesse were getting pretty hot, sitting above my 6-3-1 manifold, so I made up this heat shield. Temps before and after, traveling same route/speeds. Made a difference, but on very hot days short stop start journeys, after turning the engine off for several minutes under bonnet temps rise and the starter sometimes trips over itself trying to start, always starting first spin, but I will be adding an extra air duct to funnel air from the front grill. Also have a kenlow fan fitted.

This is usually caused by ride hieght/tyre combination. I would have thought 175/70 would have been ok. If the car is fitted with lowered front springs this could be the cause, and why having adjustable spring seats on the shocks is usefall. The bulk head tapers in down towards the front outrigger, so a little bit of height adjustment can make big difference with tyre to bulkhead clearance.

Thanks for the reply Johny Found the webchat link, and was going to contact them, then thought I would have one last try to SORN online this morning, and it worked. Tried several times last evening on two different computer operating systems, Mac and android, and a couple of times on the phone, with no joy. Like you said could have possibly been a problem with the DVLA site.

Hi all I have a Mk1 Eunos (mx5) ran as a daily for last 10 years. Insurance runs out 22/06 and as I live in the proposed ULEZ extension area and the judicial review is not until the 4 July, I thought I would take the car off the road for a few Months to see how things pan out and use the Vitesse and gt6 as daily runner's. Went online to try and SORN the car using the V5c document reference and Reg number which is the other option you have if you don't have a tax reminder. I pay by direct debit so don't get a paper reminder, it just automatically sets up a DD each year. Have tried several times online using the V5c Doc reference number and reg and just get an error message, that something went wrong try again or register SORN by phone. Tried the phone option but get a recorded message saying something went wrong? Not sure what to do next, the worry is it says you need to declare SORN if not insured. I have already cancelled the Insurance renewal for the Mx5 which expires midnight tomorrow, just renewing the vitesse and gt6 insurance. Any thoughts, advice?

I think the thick gasket on the striker plate helps the plate, seat and grip to the body so less likely to move as the door is open and shut and any movement caused by flexing of the tub, especially Herald Vitesse convertibles. Same goes for the door hinge gaskets.

Had similar problems on my gt6 mk2 for years if not used for a while. It always started after a time, so never really looked for the cause after replacing all the obvious parts, and assumed it was Down to worn engine. Then I read Nicks thread, https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/9896-stromberg-cold-start-device/ In my case it was already on the winter setting, but I did find I wasn't getting full travel when the choke was operated. After a cable adjustment, the extra 1/4" travel of the choke, made all the difference, and now starts a lot easier.

There's originally only one alloy spacer fitted between the bulk head and inner front outrigger mounting point about 3/16 thick so would make very little difference. Think the problem is spring length/spring seat combination. This is the advantage of having adjustable spring seats where you can play around with ride heights. Triumph Tune used to sell ally spacers that went between the shock seat and spring to raise the height.

This is usually caused by the ride height/tyre width. The distance between the bulk head and tyre increases as the car is raised, as the bulk head tapers in towards the front outrigger. A little bit of height adjustment either way can make a big difference to clearence. As long as the the front tub to out rigger bolts are are in place then the tub must be in the the correct position, there will be minimal tub movement/adjustment when loosened.

Is the boot lid over to one side or is it tight both sides? Movement, wear damaged hinges can cause the boot lid to move to one side as it closes. Also stress cracks on the edge of the boot lid can cause the lid to distort slightly, I think this is caused by years of being supported by only one boot stay, alowing the lid to sag on the drivers side when propped open, provoking a slight twist.

Another great day out, not to be missed. Thanks

Thanks Pete Looking forward to another great at show.

Not currently a member, and can't find any reference to This year's South of England Meet Leatherhead , would somebody be kind enough to share the dates, thanks

After replacing my gt6 brake master cylinder seals I decided to use some Dot5 i had left from the Vitesse. Bled until no air bubbles present and clear purple stream of fluid. The car was not used much and sat for a couple of years with the odd short run. Noticed the front pads binding, and knock back on the pedal. Stripped the calipers, found a little surface corrosion on the pistons that I polished out. I was surprised to see a small pool of Dot 4 brake fluid still in the inside of the caliper, along with the purple Dot5. So despite bleeding I hadn't removed all of the old brake fluid. Maybe if I had kept bleeding I would have eventually flushed all the old fluid out, but I didn't know it was still there, and because of the cost of silicone fluid, once I saw purple fluid coming out of the pipe I assumed all the old fluid was gone, but I was wrong.

The spitfire and gt6 did originally sit high at the front, as per the gayden Spitfire. People would comment on my mk2 gt6 sitting high at the front, but the car, although tatty and worn was untouched and original. I think over the years so many Spits and gt6's have been lowered it seems odd to see them at their original ride height. I did eventually lower and stiffen the front suspension, because to me cars look better lowered, but regretted it, it rode better on worn original springs than the uprated firmer shorter aftermarket versions.