Mike R

Hello all, sorry to Hijack this thread back to the original subject .... I just taxed my GT6 and it didn’t ask to declare the car MOT exempt. So got tax but no MOT exemption. I’m assuming that’s because it is currently MOT’d, perhaps only going to the declaring MOT exempt page if you have no MOT, However, that means in order to declare MOT exempt I’d have to deliberately not MOT next year, and then potentially use the car without MOT until the tax is due and then declare MOT exempt. That means running the car for a period of time without MOT and without exemption. is it me or is this crazy? Mike

Many thanks, those replies make perfect sense. sounds like a job for the winter then. Is bearing pre-load a reasonable home mechanic can do? Whilst I’ve done things like take diff and gearbox in and out, fiddling with their innards is another thing, I tried an additive to quieten .... which didn’t work. Replacing the oil would be tricky without a drain plug. Guess the diff has to come out just to drain it, or has anyone tried syphoning the oil out? Mike

I’ve had a high pitched whine from the rear of the GT6 at speeds at or over 70mph for some time. Although up to now I’ve just taken it as the Triumphs in the sky telling me not to break the speed limit. However, it does get quite loud and on the French motorways 80mph is quite legal but not good for my ear drums. (Just returned from Laon Hisorique trip - excellent !) Very difficult to absolutely pinpoint location amongst all the other noises at that speed but appears to be over my left shoulder so have assumed to be Diff related. Diff was a recon unit around 5 years ago from an excellent Coventry supplier that many will probably know. As I don’t take to those speeds very often can’t really say when it started. The odd thing is the noise is loudest on partial throttle with it going away on both overrun and quieten on full power. Does this sound like Diff issues? Could it be wheel bearing? Any solutions? thanks for any help, Mike

I do about 2000 miles per year, but then I don't know how many miles were on them before I bought the car. So yes could have been just age & miles.

For my sins when I purchased my GT6 in 2000 I greased the trunnions not realising the triumph laws. Soon after I read about the need for EP90 and potential for broken suspension, so did exactly what you did and back filled with EP90. Roll on 10 years and I had an MOT advisory on both trunnions for excessive play. I consequently replaced both uprights and both trunnions with wear apparent on both upright threads. So, was the wear because of that initial greasing? I don't know. But the idea of a potential suspension fail at speed scares me! As Cilla used to say - the decision is yours. What you can do though is at least once a year check for play in the trunnion by jacking up the front, and leavering each tyre up and down and watching the trunnion. When I had my worn trunnions you could see the trunnion move slightly relative to the upright demonstrating wear in the threads. Mike

Saw this GT6 on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1974-TRIUMPH-GT6-RED-Baby-Jaguar-e-Type-/142094291580?hash=item21157ad27c:g:jM4AAOSw0UdXutve Looks very nice, but at £19500 i would expect concours showroom quality, and probably solid gold bumpers. Couple of things don't look right though .... The exhaust looks like the silencers are virtually touching the ground ... First speed bump or undulation in road will have them off. The MOT date doesn't match what's on the governments search site. It claims only 4 left from 1974, based on how many left website, but actually its 4 currently taxed plus 5 sorned based on manufacturing date, based on registration date its more like 130 left from 1974. Interior has an odd piece sticking out side of steering wheel - not sure if thats a modified photo or there's really something odd there. But then it does look very nice .....

Hi Stuart, This is much appreciated - i have the same problem with the blue main beam warning light not showing even though the bulb is fine. Short term i've replaced the standard bulb with a high intensity LED which has meant it is now visible, although very dim. I had planned to investigate at some point when i was prepared to go through the pain of removing the speedo. Now I know what I'm likely to find. Cheers, Mike

Hi Brian, I've found that the factory workshop manual has stuff not in the Haynes manual, but then Haynes better at describing normal repair jobs so worth having both. You can purchase both at various places, But you can find the workshop manual online in PDF form for free. Quick google gives ... http://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Triumph%20Vitesse%20GT6%20workshop%20manual.pdf Cheers, Mike

Just to add to the discussion on whether the GT6 cooling is ok as standard .... My GT6 has a standard radiator (not recored) that I chemically cleaned a few years ago. I never see overheating, whether round town or at speed, with one notable exception. Recently driving to LeMans had 2hrs of walking pace stop start driving in high 20's ambient temperature. By the end the temp had reached just under the red on the guage, but no signs of boiling. When I calibrated the guage previously just under red is where 100 deg C lies on my car, as 13psi water boils at 120 deg C it looks like I still had a reasonable amount in hand. Although I must admit by that time I was getting a little nervous. So, for me a slight improvement in "stuck in traffic" cooling might help in the most extreme conditions - I've put a slight cowl around the fan side of the radiator to help with this as when air flow is measured the fan definitely sucks in some air from the sides bypassing the radiator - this is as well as the cardboard cowl on the grill side.

Quick update if people are interested. I found this thread on british car forum: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?81985-GT6-Luggage-Floor-Panel-Thickness/page3 Shows the gap/space under the bar that supports the luggage boards a good place for your handbag apparently ... See photo

Hello ... hope you don't mind, thought i'd use this to test my understanding..... I've only ever rebuilt a gearbox once and that was not particularly successful, so I'm no expert. But i'm just wondering if the mainshaft tip bearing was the issue why is the gearbox quiet in 4th? I'm thinking the difference about 4th is there is no load through the layshaft, so is it more likely the issue is the layshaft needle bearings? Just some thoughts, Mike

Whenever you are worried about materials compatability http://www.coleparmer.co.uk/Chemical-Resistance is a really good source of info. In this case 20% acetic is the nearest to vinegar - although vinegar is more like 5%. So select that and hit go. It returns the compatability of all the materials in its database. What shows up straight away is severe effect with cast iron .... So maybe not such a good idea on the block. As contact is short lived I wouldn't worry about minor impacts, but "severe effect" would be a step too far for me. Mike

Whilst I agree sounds pretty good cooling if you really want to make a difference you try the little trick I did. Remove radiator from car. Second hand pump from dishwasher plumbed into washing up bowl. Make up hot sulphamic acid (commercial descaler) in the bowl and circulate through the radiator. On mine the water ran clear with the normal hose flush in situ but the photo shows what came out when recirculated as shown. Continuous flushing and reflushing got it clear eventually. The difference compared to the old hose trick was like night and day. I know its not the block asked about, but the principal is the same. Only thing is sulphamic is corrosive, so dont leave it in for days and make sure its well flushed out afterwards. Mike

Maybe at customs?

Thanks Nick and GT6M - I'd never heard of the running compression test. That looks interesting, I might give that a go. As I don't have any performance issues / symptoms I'll definitely try a different oil. Hopefully that will give me a few more years to save a few pennies for a posh rebuilt engine. Or maybe try the rebuild myself, although not sure I'm brave enough for that. Mike

Some more good replies ... Much appreciated. John ... The thing about no.2 cylinder is .. Is the increase when "wet" significant. I assumed it wasn't because i had a similar increase on a good cylinder, hence the question what is normal. And my crank case blow by test seems to support that its not rings. But if you're telling me I shouldn't be seeing that sort of difference on any cylinder, then looks like I've got some work to come! And, yes car working very well at mo .... If it wasn't for the oil consumption I wouldn't have a problem at all. GT6M - thanks for the tips - i use a 20w 50 thinks its Duckhams, but a reasonable brand with API marking etc. I dont have a breather valve, it breaths via a knock out pot to atmosphere, there's no back pressure which is apparent by opening the oil filler. Guess the tip on bedding in is more for a newly rebuilt engine? Or might it help an old one like mine? Anyway ... For now I'll keep monitoring, but at some point I'll need to decide on what works needs doing, recon cylinder head or complete engine? It hurts just to type it! Mike

Thanks Doug & Pete, Pete - no I dont have the evil that is the external oil feed. But for my sins I did install it when I first owned the car in 2000. I then read the problems and removed it within 6 months. Yes plugs were out and throttle open (accellerator chocked with a piece of wood) I don't suppose either of you know if the 15psi difference between wet and dry compression tests is normal do you? You both seem to be saying 600 miles for a litre of oil isn't that bad - is that right? If so, I might just live with it, because otherwise she's performing really well. What's your thoughts? Cheers, Mike

Hello all, Hope you can help with this one - I'm pretty confident with most bits on the GT6, but don't have much experience once you get into how to fix the engine itself. Going to/from LeMans I found that my oil consumption was higher than expected - around a litre over 600 miles. Investigation done: * external oil leaks - slight weep from head gasket spark plug side about half way along head, but not enough even to drip onto floor of garrage just gives the block that "wet look". Looks damp around dipstick tube, but could be just it collecting there from same source. Nothing else obvious. Don't think that would be cause of the quantities i'm looking for - that would be a regular drip. * engine blow by test - put a latex glove over crankcase breather, inflates in about 10secs when at idle. From what i can find that seems quite a low blow by. * rev engine whilst watching exhaust - no smoke, blue or otherwise. * dry compression test: All cylinders apart from no.2 at 130 to 140 psi. No. 2 cylinder at 90psi. * wet compression test: No. 2 cylinder now at 110psi, 20 psi increase over dry. No. 6 cylinder now at 145psi, 15 psi increase over dry. * cylinder leak down test: This uses compressed air to measure leak rate when cylinder at TDC. All cylinders apart from no. 2 at 25 to 30% and right in middle of green section on the gauge. No.2 cylinder 45% and in the amber section of gauge. A bit of oil in the cylinder and it improves to 40%. Glove placed over exhaust - no inflation - hence exhaust valves fine? Radiator cap remove a little water added so top hose entry submerged - no bubbles - so head gasket fine? My conclusions. I think the increase when putting oil in the cylinder is small and similar to the increase seen on the good cylinder with oil. I think this shows that the problem isn't the rings? I think the exhaust valve, and head gasket are fine, so that just leaves the inlet valve. I'm thinking a worn valve guide has let oil down the valve causing deposits on the back of the valve head and making it not seat? Right .... So now the questions ....... 1. Do you agree with my assessment from the investigation? Or have I missed something? 2. Is it possible to re- seat a valve by lapping in again? Will this deatroy the lead memory? 3. Is 15 to 20 psi increase between dry and wet compression tests normal? Or is an indication that all cylinders actually need work? 4. Any experience of fitting valve stem seals - do they work? Any risks? 5. I was thinking of replacing all 6 inlet valve guides, fitting valve stem oil seals on them, lapping in no. 2 valve. Is that a reasonable DIY job? 6. Anything else? Sorry for war and piece on this ... but hopefully it make an interesting read if nothing else! Thanks, Mike

I relocated mine to the bulkhead a few years ago when doing some renovations. But that was purely a preventative measure I didn't have any problems, just seemed an unnecessary risk to me.

Yes i have the vinyl covered upstand and no the rear boards butt against it. Sounds like what I have is "normal" for a GT6. Rear seat .... I ground out on speed bumps if i traverse at more than 0.1 mph as it is without sitting bodies in the back. (I say bodies because obviously the arms and legs wouldn't fit) Cheers, Mike

Thanks for suggestions. I always hold the trigger part way and gradually speed up ... Once it's clear the nozzle is fully inserted it works fine. It's just that initial squeeze will blow back if not fully inserted. I guess I just need to be careful.

Thanks all for your comments. My carpet is a moulded set, bought a few years ago and only just fitted. It does extend a reasonable distance under the bar so sounds similar to the others here and very similar to Cookie's when viewed from behind. The carpet isn't proud of the bar, just not quite clear in the photo. I was just surprised that the gap existed, seems an odd design. I might cover my foam bits in old carpet and make it a bit neater. Thanks again, Mike

Sorry about the topic title but this isn't a self help group for problems after too many pints. But I've found that if I don't push the petrol station pump nozzle right into the filler neck the petrol foams and pours out onto the floor, right from the the first squeeze of the nozzle. I did have it sorted until last time when I had to reverse into the bay and the pump wasn't quite alignd and splashed back again. By being very careful I can prevent this, but does anyone else have similar issue? Or know what might be slightly wrong? Or is this a Triumph vs the modern world thing? Thanks, Mike

Dear all, I've recently fitted a carpet I've had hanging around in the to do job list for years. I got to fitting the rear section and got confused. On the GT6 there is a metal bar between the two rear wheel arches that sits a couple of inches above the rear spring tunnel. This supports the rear boards that sit over the spare wheel and fuel tank. I've finished the rear carpet so that it sits below the metal bar leaving a 2" gap between carpet and bar. This seems wrong as there is now a gap from the main cabin through to the area under the rear boards. I've ended up just stuffing some left over blue seat foam to block the gap. The attached photo is meant to explain better where you can just see the yellow/blue foam where it pokes through the gap. But does anyone know how this gap is meant to be filled?

Hello John, hope the attached sketch might help. I put together a wiring diagram for my GT6 with a bit more detail that helps explain how various bits work. I've just shown the wipers bit here. No. 32 is the wiper switch and is shown in the off position. No. 33 is the wiper motor with the self park switch next to it, shown in the parked position. If the switch is off, but not parked power comes in on the top green wire into the park switch, back to the wiper switch and then to the motor on the red/light green low speed feed. When parked, that power is cut via the park switch, but more than that, both sides of the motor become earthed. That way any slight run on of the motor generates a shorted current causing the motor to self brake - regerative braking and stop very quickly. Without it the run on of the motor can cause the park switch to miss the park position and keep going, at least it did on mine some years back. Not sure how that compares to the Vitesse setup .... Anyway hope that helps, Mike