PeteH

Hi Barrs leaks, is a product that's been around for years. Took over from "porridge" as the way to seal a leaking rad!. (and a handful of sawdust in the diff; to reduce noise!). I have filled a square of the matrix with solder, using Acid to clean the copper and a Blowlamp. But the "piece de resistance" has to be cutting profiled Oak on a band-saw, driving it into the chassis of a Ford Thames van and bolting through, with bolts made from 6" Nails. To relocate the axle. Lasted for a couple years until the "10 year Test" Fail. ("unacceptable repair", probably stronger than Ford made it!). The thing`s Poverty stricken apprentices where forced to resort to! Pete

Hi R9 Fuel hose. Is it resistant to modern "additives"?. There is also some "online" discourse as to the best source?. Some are not regarded as genuine?. pete

Hi. Reboot of topic.? Can someone confirm CORRECT dia for a Herald Fuel Pipe. I have seen conflicting dimensions (31/16? 1/4" 8mm and 10mm?). The pipe that (did not!) come with the car, and the only short piece was very corroded!. My Gut feeling is to use 8mm Copper?, but maybe 6mm would be adequate?. Pete

Hi Forgot there had been a previous post! (And I even Posted!!). Mind 2016 is many "sleeps" ago. Been looking at the like of "Commercial" Units, and the cost is the factor £700+ (with Vat). The attraction of a Stag?, Well for me part of the object of the Herald is the fact that it is smaller and lighter and in theory could be towed behind my Motorhome, to more distant Venues would be a "No, No" for "er indoors" these days. And thereby makes a better bet, for MY particular Life-style. Just a further a thought on the original posting, The Clamp(s) on the U-J joint are fully Tight?. If not that would introduce "Slack" into the system, and they are not easy to get at "in-situ". Clamping the lower shaft would show that up?. Pete

Sounds like a good idea, Fall`s down when you look at the prices of DECENT Stags. As I have the whole plot to rebuild anyway, incorporating it may not be so problematical. Deciding the "Donor" could be the tricky part. Some small Vauxhall's and Fiats?, are early contenders perhaps?. Or a "write off" later car?. The Electronic "brains" could need reprogramming?. It would be interesting to hear if/from anyone who has done it. As for the O-P. just spent 1/2 an hour "playing" with my Column, there appears to be NO "play", indicating wear in the bearings, at all in the column but fore and aft movement is nearly 1/8". (having trouble loading the Pic`s)

I had the (air) ones, nearly 2ft long on the roof of an American Motorhome they played "Dixie". Not legal on the road though! (switchable). Had Air horns on the BMW Bike too. Often Needed them, to wake up sleeping drivers!. (Sorry mate, didn't see you!). Pete

Hi When turning the wheel, What actually moves?. The whole column assembly?, Or just the shaft within?.1/16" on the top of the steering wheel would seem to be a very small amount, definitely not an MOT fail anyway. If it is bushes then replacing them would seem the only answer?. The "Canley" illustration shows what I assume is the bush (4) (described as "Clip Cancelling?" 140549) which appears to be the only "wearing part". My Steering column is currently hung up in the garage, awaiting refurb; (along with the rest of the car!). I will take a look later. Whilst on the subject, has anyone ever done an Electric Power Steering mod?. Might greatly assist with the "Old Arthritis"? Pete

Hi Before you do anything, check the EARTH. A poor Earth connection will degrade any Voltage / current. Radio aerials too where replaced often when they only needed the earthing remaking and a light coat of "Vaseline" to reduce the chance of it happening again!. Pete

Hi. Lots of interesting views here. So can I add my "two pennoth"?. There is an issue surrounding NOS parts, Vis availability and in some cases deterioration in storage. I obtained a set of NOS brake pads on which one of the "pads" had detached from the Backing plate!. And a "Gaiter" which was already cracking!. Then there is the N/A. Which leaves little alternative to the use of more "Modern" Materials. Retrofitting "Electronic" ignition was not uncommon back in the 70`s. I had it in my Mk1 Escort(s). Moving from Cross Ply to Radial Tyres likewise. Replacement of Engines, Gear boxes etc with "modern" upgrades, does in my view, defeat the object of ownership of a "Classic", However I would not Balk at the entire Genre, For example as someone who has more that a touch of Arthritis, I might well be tempted to electric power steering, in order to continue to enjoy the overall satisfaction of ownership. Some years ago, my wife owned a Vittesse, the primary reason for it`s sale being the fact that she could no longer manage the clutch and the need for an auto "box" became paramount. Only days after it was sold, I saw an conversion using the 2.5 Engine and Auto box (from a Crashed 2000 series). Had I known I would have seriously considered a similar swap!. A Recent, "Car SOS" programme highlighted the rebuild of the 13/60, in which the Engine had fuel injection fitted, allegedly the aim was to improve the reliability and give better response. The (Lady) Owner was intending to use it as a Daily Driver, and had limited maintenance skills. The Enjoyment of the Classic, whatever it is should be the first objective?

Hi Not having access to either Stud extractors, nor to an impact gun. The following worked well. Weld a Nut to the end of said Stud. (assuming not already broken flush!). This has a second effect of introducing heat into the stud/head/manifold interface. Apply release fluid of choice, (in my case, gas oil). Start by Gently progressively tightening and un-tightening the assembly. I have had a high success rate with this method. ranging from 4mm up to 50mm. (Marine Practice). I have actually removed a near flush broken stud this way on one occasion, but not from a casting. Using an old welding glove suitably "doctored" helped protect the surroundings from weld over-splash.

Hi Just noted something. My VIN starts GE*********. BUT the Engine is GK*********.? (Herald 13/60 1971) Would that indicate the Engine has been "swapped" at some point. I know it has an unleaded Head, as I have the Invoice, but was just curious.

Didn't he also have some rocks as ballast, very useful in the boot, helps keep the rear end from skipping out!

Hi I was thinking more about being able to do rough checking before I replace the tubs as It will be easier to access IF the Shim(s) required alteration than lying on the back under the car when all the work is done?. My idea was to "load" the chassis to some median point and then check that there where no gross errors prior to replacing the tubs. If I where to distribute a couple of hundred Kilos equally fore and aft. then String either side of the wheels, It should be possible to determine if the alignment vis-a-vis the chassis rails is within the ball park?. The thinking being that it could save a lot of work at a later stage?. If I could get it at that point within or close to Pete`s 3mm tolerance. Then getting it laser tracked on completion should in theory reduce potential tyre wear from day one, and ensure steering accuracy.? Pete

On this subject. I have had to Replace one outrigger and the offside rail. Whilst great care was taken with dimension checking. It remains a fact that the Chassis Tracking could need realigning As the BARE chassis will have no relationship to the completed Car in terms of the Loaded suspension. Can anyone assist/advise, if it is possible to Preload the Chassis (Sand Bags or similar?) To allow basic tracking to be determined?. Pete.

Hi John. Like the report. Despite the "spell check" failure!. It is concise, has all the facts, and is well summarised. (I used to hate "technical reports" that Waffled). I was interested in the Crank that failed under warranty. My "gut" feeling would be, most likely due to a casting/forging failure. Whilst it is possible that a "Notch" was created during machining, such a defect would have been caught by Inspectors, and any decent assembler would not have used it anyway. Radio-graphing even such a high stress item would not have been cost effective. (even less so in the 1970`s when such examination processes where virtually unknown?.) It was one of the worst jobs I ever had, Checking Radiographs of Welds for defects. Makes "watching paint dry" look fun!. As an aside. I had a failure of the main gearbox input shaft, on a 1993 Chevy Heavy Duty Auto box. (Cost and Arm and Leg!). I had it looked at by an ex colleague who suggested that the shaft had had a manufacturing defect which had slowly propagated over time. (About 6years). Pete

Hi. Experience not to be repeated!. In my Case BMW (Bike) went one way I went the other, Bye Bye to a very expensive set of Leathers and Helmet. Fortunately that was the sum total of damage outside of a new Fairing, Silencer and Leg Pegs, covered by insurance. Diesel on a road surface will unseat even the best of "sticky" tyres, It`s akin to driving on ice. Recent bad weather had even the local 4x4 Wags doing circles in their "posemobiles". Why do they need a Chelsea Tractor, to take the kids 800yards to school?.

Hi No disrespect to anyone who is into Track days etc; and all due respect to those who are using their Triumph as regular and or daily drivers, (I doff my hat to you Gents and Ladies). However, my take is that for the sort of use mine will get. Something new, but close to the tyres that where available "in their day". will be more than adequate, and with more than a touch of arthritis, I do not need to be fighting to park it up. IMV, its the old adage "Horses for Courses". Most of the reading I have done would suggest that most modern tyres are indeed developed in tandem with modern suspension and steering in mind. It`s not just about "stiction" but has to take in many other factors as well?. Pete

I can see how "modern" tyres might attract, especially for hard road use and some track days. However I have to consider that fitting some really sticky modern compounded tyre might make low speed manoeuvring more difficult, having got used to PAS on my last few moderns. Also I would surmise that not ALL modern tyres are suited to Classic use, with different Setups.

That`s interesting?. My old Shogun used to get the full Rolling Road Treatment. As did the S2 Landy before it failed MOT. And was sold on for "Spares or Repair". In fact, the Only ones that got the "Tapley" treatment, where the two American R-V`s, where the Brake system was a bit "Bespoke" and then only to test the handbrake.. Pete

All the forgoing points are equally valid. However my concern is toward "liability", and the ability of insurers to wriggle out in the event of a "genuine" accident. Keeping an MOT, or MOT type inspection and written record of what was examined. Is IMV a sensible "Bum covering" move. Pete

Hi Not something that I remember, but it was 30+ years ago!. The one (that was) on my 13/60, appeared to be just mild steel. Now my curiosity is aroused, I can see a session of raking through the "meccano set" ,to check!. (Bu**er!) Pete

Hi I am surprised that, the Insurers, haven't made a move on this one. Maybe they have not caught up yet?. Their liability under 3rd Party, regardless of the culpability of the vehicle owner, could run into millions if a badly maintained vehicle, killed or seriously maimed several people?. I half expect that some of the more responsible ones could start to ask for documented evidence of Inspection, or maintenance records, at some point. Whilst, as has been pointed out by several posters, the MOT, is only valid to the kerb side. It IS evidence of intent, and would prove valuable in mitigation at the very least. As with all these things, there is also the "conspiracy theory". That which has been pointed at on "Social Media". Goes along the lines of "one day a bad accident will give the Government the power to remove ALL older cars". Which will have the Auto industry and the "green" hangers on, cheering, and true enthusiasts drowning their sorrows. Pete P.S. Something else which just occurred to me. What would be the position of the likes of TSSC legally if say an "unsafe" car was involved during an Event?. Do they have to introduce "scrutineering" ahead of participation, in order to cover the Club?. P

Hi Bit of an Anomaly here. Haynes Vittese (p87) do not show a Bellhousing clamp. Though there is a Clip Shown?. The GT6 does however show a full clamp and bracket. The Stanpart catalogue for the 13/60 shows a full clip and bracket?. I seem to remember, (30+ years ago) that my Wife's (1968 2L) Vittese did have a clamp and bracket to the Bellhousing. Pete

Hi. To some extent, the issues that will arise will be around the fact that a vehicle without an MOT, can currently be flagged up to the Police/VOSA. On their in car equipment. Registering for VHI, will flag up as not required, and should not attract a "pull". The downside of this, could? be that a small minority of the "unscrupulous" will latch on to that fact, to allow the use of vehicles which are or could be potentially unsafe of dangerous. Statistically, one day such a vehicle will be involved in a serious lost of life. That IMV is when the "poo hits the fan" and moves to ban ALL "historic" "bangers" will be the result of a "Public Outcry", followed by the usual Government Knee Jerk Reaction. As someone who was affected by the "loss" of a Sporting Firearm, when under similar circumstances, after Dunblane, Sporting hand guns where so seriously restricted it became not worth while trying to keep it, I have been there, and got the tee shirt so to speak. There was also a severe financial penalty paid too, as the weapon had little or no value. (To the extent that some found their way into the "Black Market" where prices where allegedly substantially higher). Not mine I hasten to add.. Putting a "six pot" into a Herald (for example) providing the brake/suspension was similarly upgraded, might not be seen as "Substantial change" as the factory produced such a Vehicle (Vitesse). Likewise the GT6 engine in a Spitfire, again with the caveat that the necessary brake.suspension changes where carried.?

Hi You Like me, Can`t sleep in?. I get the picture now, I have a Haynes, for the Herald. and one for the Vittese which I expect would have shown the difference as it covers the GT6 too? If I had have looked!!. Do I take it from that, there is more "rigidity" built into the Spit "Tubs", thereby not requiring the supposed stiffness imparted by the design of the Herald chassis?, because without the rear outriggers, the Spit; boot is effectively "self supporting"?. The Turnover rig, was a bit of "Chicken and Egg". I wanted potentially to use it (the 13/60) to tow my lightweight "recycling dump" trailer. When I got it welded up I realised that I could utilise it to fabricate a Rotator and save my Aged back, The remains of several old towing brackets which no one seems to want (no takers on E-Bay), Scaffold tube, the top section of two axle stands, and some Welding produced a serviceable Item, which won`t win any beauty contests, but what the hell, it saves me having to spend even more time on my knees than our Vicar.! Pete