PeteH

Back circa 1965 ish, there where not too many digital anything's. Transistors where a relatively new invention!. Even my Radio was a Valve Set. Hallicrafter, quite expensive American AC and DC job!. As 3rd Engineer on a tramp steamer. I was given the "AVO" in a leather case and told to get on with it. 110V DC power from 3x2 stage Steam reciprocating power plants. Chiefy and I came up with the idea of the salinometer as a way of keeping tabs on the Salinity. So we watch-keepers could blow down the two steam boilers only when absolutely necessary, as doing it too often wasted fuel oil. Sacrificial anodes are a way of life in marine practice, without them the Propeller(s) will turn into a lace curtain in short order.

Hi To digress, recently purchased one of these. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Handy tool especially the ability to read very small currents in cables using the clamp. In both DC and AC modes. used it to track a rogue battery loss issue. Pete

Hi In the deepest darkest recesses of my mind, have I not seen somewhere where Fixing/locking the two parts together is/was a partial solution, albeit not a satisfactory one from the point of view of actual vibration damping.?

Hi Bloody Hell!!. what sort of measuring equipment do you have access to?. Such currents are usually only measured in micro-amps. Either that or your cooling system is better than my battery!. Mind we did rig a "Salinity" test up once, using 110V dc two lengths of wire and a 110V 40w Bulb. One end in the Ships "Hotwell" where the boiler feed was taken from, the other to positive feed. Bit dodgy, but it worked as the salinity increased the lamp grew brighter. And we had to start blowing down the boiler to reduce the salinity.

Hi Would this idea be viable on the Herald?. The hood has a tendency to squirm when you open up. I have toyed with the idea of putting them on the boot lid too?. Pete

Hi. I am in Yorkshire, But. Thanks, I will file that. I know Waterlooville. having lived further up the M3 by J-4 for several years. We Have family Farnborough, and Reading way. So get down from time to time in the Motorhome, currently granddaughter is in her last semester at Winchester Uni. Pete

Hi Interesting to see the range of thoughts on this. I ran wife's Vitesse in the 80`s on a Mix 40/60 I think. BUT when my son had his Dolly the "perceived wisdom" was to use "neat" antifreeze!. Theory being it led to less "galvanic" corrosion, which was (again) perceived as being the greater of the issues. But Times change. When we where making "feed" water, from seawater, for the water tube high pressure marine boilers, control of the water condition was paramount. And we went to great lengths to reduce oxygen, and many other elements. For "our" purposes using filtered tap water, in my case, would be adequate. But some very hard water area`s would benefit from the use of De-ionised water as the base with about 40% "bluecol" type A-F. with the possible addition of an additive to reduce oxygen?. A word of caution though on the use of caustic soda to clean (parts of) the system. It can be particularly vicious to some alloying agents and weaken the inherent strength of the material. But it makes copper very shiny!. As witness my nice clean outside lantern, which my neighbour actually thought was painted steel, Before it`s transformation!! Pete

Hi. Any chance of the name of the upholsterer? I am converting my 13/60 to use Cloth covered MX seats when finished, Necessary because the standard seats have insufficient back support. Therefore the name of any good upholsterer will be useful. ?????********! I just realised your in NI!. Freight could be an issue. Cheers Pete

Hi Trouble Is as I see it. And I agree that Hydrogen needs to be split from Water in the first place using energy. Is that as far back as I can remember. That being a long way seeing as I am 75 soon. Nuclear Fusion has always been "just round the corner". Most of the problem seems to stem from controlling the process once it gets started?. After all what is being "created" is a Micro Sun in all but mass, and my understanding (not being a nuclear physicist) is that once it becomes "self sustaining" control will be most problematic?. Hello you nuclear physicist`s out there? I am struggling here!.

Hi In the modern Diesels. Larger Particulates are removed by Particulate filters, which are regenerated periodically by running consistently above 600 deg C. Selective Non Catalytic Reduction (SNCR) basically introduces a reagent at about 1000 deg C (Is normally achieved by injecting small amounts Urea or Ammonia into the system) effectively turning the NOX back to Nitrogen. Diesels are more efficient in extracting the energy from fuel and overall produce far less CO-2. The current drive to "electric" is smoke and mirrors, as the electric energy has to be produced, stored and then reused. Each stage has losses. (Newtons Law`s still apply). So the "cradle to grave" "greenness" is extremely suspect. The most efficient Electric Motors, are costly to produce and use substantial quantities of rare earth metals in their construction. It is probable the most efficient form of motive power is by the use of Hydrogen as the fuel, the end product being water vapour. but that will still only reduce not eliminate C-O2. Burning Rain Forest does far more damage than vehicles. BTW. Tesla`s most likely long term contribution to reducing "fossil fuel use" .Will not likely be the vehicles. But if their "Solar Roof Tiles" are proved effective and long term durable, bearing in mind that all solar panels currently being produced and fitted degrade and produce less power over time. And they solve the issue of storage. Pete

We, Hardy Yorkshire People, Are not getting "Emma" we are stuck with the Russian Gas!.

Hi. No, A rendition of "Capstick comes home". To the tune of the "Hovis" commercial!. Pete

I KNEW, at some point, it would be suggested (even as a joke) that Brexit was responsible for the "Beast from the East"! I remember, ( Uncle Albert Story). going to school as a first year, rising 5. In snow so deep it was over my little Wellies and my bare legs where frozen (Short pants) Pete

Ah! Yes!. like the ones I had to get very "physical" with. Welded a stud to the bolt head in the end and used tube and washers to draw it out whilst "massaging" the threaded end with a lump hammer!.

The Bolt is tightened onto the Inner Sleeve, If it locks the Trunnion up solid, then I would suggest the machining of the Sleeve lengthwise is incorrect?.

Could be a function of the extra load stress an overdrive will inevitably place on what was originally designed?. Looking at the Haynes Manual for the Vittesse. (1600). A rebuild whilst probably time consuming, not that much of an issue for one retired, does not look any more onerous than the Mini Gearbox, or the Fords which I have done in the past?. The biggest issue would be in my view access to the parts?, which in total could make the job non cost effective?. The current Non O/d box is an unknown quantity anyway, it selects all gears reasonably smoothly. But was already removed when I got the vehicle as the previous owner had already started the refurb;. And I shall probably fit it initially, to see how she goes. I would suspect it most unlikely that a Non O/D box would be acceptable as P-Ex for an O/D one!. Thanks. Pete

Tops marks, for response guys. I only posted out of curiosity. I am more intrigued with the idea now, so maybe a few months of "shopping" on Flea bay is called for.? Just a question? As mine is a late (1970-1) build, should it have the 4sync Box?. Or did they use the 3 sync right up to the end? The Gear box, No is GB 22693 or possibly G 322693, (can`t read my own writing!). Pete

Hi. Been reading some of the posts ref; O/D. with that in mind the question Is:- Which Box/Drive combination would be suitable for a 13/60?. Where potentially would one source one, and from what vehicle?. Would it be necessary to change the Diff Ratio. Or not?. I have my own theories, but any experience would be beneficial?. Could one be built from the existing box with an Overdrive sourced seperately?. Pete

The second one we did, we stripped everything out of it, threw it upside down on an old mattress and Stitched the seams with BRAZING to stop the Spot welds "popping"..

Ditto. The last time I "put out" for Koni`s, we where preparing a (Mk1) Escort for rallying!.

Be a bit careful about drilling the casing, any (drilling) detritus will adversely affect the Gears. I had mine out, so merely placed it on a tray with the Filler at the lowest point and left it overnight. Unless you really want to change the oil at regular intervals a fresh charge now will likely last many years. Or invest in one of these. ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/231977958445?chn=ps&adgroupid=54300448927&rlsatarget=pla-398490660936&abcId=1130076&adtype=pla&merchantid=7334984&poi=&googleloc=1006816&device=c&campaignid=1029942144&crdt=0 Can double for drawing Hydraulic fluid through brake systems after a rebuild too. Pete

Hi The photo is of my recently rebuilt 13/60 rear. It came with the "Swing Spring", so may be different to yours, however as you can see it has only 4 studs, the diff (mine) is already drilled and tapped for 6 studs. But 4 would seem to be adequate? BTW. Surely fitting a 3.89 diff, will make it very "long legged". especially with an O/d Box?.

Hi The Attached is a Page from the Haynes Herald Manual. (Not shown in the Vitesse version):- Shows the layout of the pipework. (For a Herald) Interesting is that the Herald Pipes are fitted from the rear of the front wheels. whereas the Vittesse ones shown in the photo`s (above) show the pipework to the Front. But the run on the chassis seems to be the same. BTW, a better alternative to Vaseline, which can degrade some "rubber" is KY Jelly. A well known Lubricant in some circles.

Hi Now this IMHO. Might be worth a Grand More?. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1970-Triumph-Herald-convertible/183049960502?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49925%26meid%3Db860245f398b4b109f9c2d3a965bd2c4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D222824355755%26itm%3D183049960502&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Pete

Hi Could be right about some Dolly seats, seem to remember the ones in Wife`s Vittese being with cloth facings?. I would have thought the heavier engine would have needed a front spring change, and benefit from a servo in the braking system, I know early ones did without. But if your upgrading surely you do the brakes as well?. At 1800 notes (so Far) it`s a Big ask in my view, I suspect almost as much when you get down to it as my 13/60, which came to me with load of Mod`s Inc Unleaded head, and fully reworked, all new, braking system, and a shed load of past paperwork, for well under half of that. And an MOT.