PeteH

Hi. I am a long way from needing fuel Line as I write BUT. there has been a lot of "chatter" in the Classic media Ref; the type of flexible lines needed allegedly due to the introduction of Ethanol(s) into the Bulk Fuels. Has anyone got first hand experience of issues, and what recommendations as to the best way to deal with this?. I have a part coil of steel pipe, from another project which I believe will be sufficient to make the Necessary Pipe run for the 13/60. OR should I go with Non Ferrous?. Another thing Itching in the mind is removing the Mech; Fuel pump and fitting a Modern Electric one somewhere near the tank In the Boot?.

HI Thanks Guys. Been scratching the (baldish) head over that. Looking in the wrong place. As I didn't remove the "box I was not aware. What I did not wish to do, was find that it went in some hard to access space, once the tubs have been refitted to the Chassis.. Odd that it was with the diff "parts"? As this is a 1971 Reg (1970 Build?) 13/60? Convertible, which I bought rolling but part disassembled.

Hi can anyone identify this part?, and advise it`s location. I think I have got it down to part of the Chassis, in way of the Rear Diff:? Pete

Hi. Update. There was in fact a plate, "found in a safe place"!!. (Senior moments!). Now fitted with New bolts, its near ready to become a rolling chassis after some More Removal of "CRUD", cleaning and a coat of Paint!. The Diff; has 3 New seals and only awaits arrival of 12 new Bolts for the U-J`s.

Hi The "mod" is in such good condition, that I am reluctant to replace it ,Especially in view of the Cost!! plus I do not expect to be doing a great deal of "thrashing". My wife`s Old Vittesse used to carry 25Kg bag of sand in the Boot!. Which made some impression!. I can indeed fabricate a plate, and the length of the studs will cope with that. Which is what I will likely do, I estimate that the plate is about 3/8" (10mm)? in thickness, and will be an easy fabrication. As you rightly point out most of the images on the net show the plate fitted between lower and second spring. And which would give the necessary clearance for the cross bolt.

Hi Question.? My 13/60 came with the "swing" Axle conversion. Having stripped and Cleaned the Spring I have reassembled it as it was removed. However I have a sneaky feeling that the Bolt through the "Bridge" Clamp Is being crushed. (pic 1). I note in the Picture posted by Vanadium 23. There is a plate under the "Bridge" Clamp?, which was not there on mine. So Question?, do I fabricate a plate,? what thickness is recommended?. I have a stud which holds the lower spring to the Axle, which was VERY proud. I used a thin nut and Shortened the stud, which improved things BUT the cross bolt is badly bent. I am tempted to remove that bolt all together?. But unsure at this juncture as the that wisdom?. Ie; it is there and should have a purpose?. (see Pictures) The Canley "swing" picture shows a Plate? Which suggests to me that this is not a Canley Product So Who?. Browsing the Net I see this on U-Tube (Pic grab), which appears to show the same setup but without the Cross bolt and Tube?. (on a Spitfire).

Hi Thanks, I think I will also replace the Nose and Diff; side seals whilst it is on the bench. Rather that have it to do once re-installed from underneath!. Pete

Hi Thanks, But its not the ratio that is at issue (yet!). In any case the Chassis is in the (home made) rotator for cleaning and repair. I am trying to get hands on the correct mounting bushes for my vehicle. and Rimmer stumped me by saying there are 2 types. From the look of the Drawing on their site I think I need the Early one (Larger?). But was looking to make sure I was not getting the wrong one. I could check the ratio by rotating the Nose and seeing how may turns the drive shafts make?. Pete

Hi. 1970 (build?) Herald 13/60. I am trying to identify the Type of diff?. I think it should be a Type B?. The information is needed in order to obtain the correct Bushes. I find Numbers on the castings e.g. V? or Y 2734. also B176. and a stamping on the Rear rim face 55. Rimmer State that there is a change from GA8000? but I can find no identifier even remotely like this? I am thinking that the 13/60 diff may be a Vittesse one albeit with different ratio?. Any Idea`s Pete

Hi again. The (DIY) rotator works OK. But once the chassis is up and running. I then have the issue of how to manage the welding required on the 2 Tub Sections. and a Bonnet with "Rust worm".? The thinking at this time is to put the chassis on Jack Stands. and a Sheet of 3/4 Ply or similar on top of it and use it as a Work space?. with the sections on top of the ply base?. As For tidy!. What you see passes for tidy here!. Spanners in bucket, (all in one place?). Then every now and again I have the Purge. It all goes back in it`s place. and we start over!. AND that in what passes these days as a "double" garage!. Luxury indeed, I am too old to be doing stuff out in the weather. In Fact anyone got an Old Wood burner?, all that removed Underseal should burn well?. The 13/60 has Alloy trim strips, where yours has Rubber. My Valences are not too grotty, and should repair/clean up. The front Valence Is F Glass!!. And I suspect it will be going back on! the price of the new steel ones are eye-watering. Keep it up, I`ll come back time and see what progress! Cheers. Pete

Tony Hart? do you have link to his webpage? OK Found it and sent him an e-mail just now. Thanks Pete

Hi. I definitely looks the right one (they are Handed) and the size Circa 61/62mm is correct?. Anyone, have the correct way to P-M my address?. Cheers Pete

Interesting Read. Occupied some hours whilst Nursing the (man) "flu" (well nasty cold actually, as I`ve Just had my "flu" jab, so it can`t be flu, can it?). I have a great deal of sympathy for working under car`s in cold weather. Arthritis is a killer!. I am in the process of doing a "nut and Bolt" on a 13/60. (Post Retirement Project!) Well it started out as a Rolling resto!. But the condition of the Chassis, had dictated removal of the "tub" sections, which are on their sides (braced) waiting attention!. Having acquired Severe backache (and visits to a Chiropractor!) trying to weld in positions last seen in the "Karma Sutra". I applied some lateral thinking and produced a Rotator built from the remains of 2 redundant Towing brackets, Cut down Scaffolding, scrap angle bar and Utilising the Anti roll bar Mounts and the Towing bracket I fabricated. (no one makes one any more!). This works a treat!. I can now weld Down hand (most of the time). and refurbishing Bits of Wheel Mount etc; is less demanding of my Back!. Cleaning and Painting (in my case hand brushing Black Hammerite) is also less of a hassle. Your Herald is coming on nicely, and at least your are (occasionally) getting to drive it, I will have to wait, possible a couple of years!. at the current rate of progress, the target at the moment is a Rolling Chassis By Xmas (2017?) Keep up the good work. Pete

Hi Would be grateful, thanks for the Offer. best wishes Pete Hey, just noticed, I have been elevated to Advanced member, Must due to my age?. I won`t see 70 again!

Hi. I can get a full Set!. For just over £8. But all I need is one shim!. IF I go the whole hog I will, for safety, have to replace both sides. Pads Pins Clips Shims. So I am looking at circa £17+Shipping, Just to replace one shim!. And then I have to BIN two full sets of perfectly good kit!, which to an old engineer is going against the grain!. I dont need to do this yet, as the "project" has probably a couple of years to run. Its a "Nut and Bolt" job. With the chassis just the first stage. Maybe someone "out there" has or will have shims, even second hand kicking about in the meantime!. Time was you could get individual items. Pete

Hi This ties in with a Query I have. Herald 13/60, Refurbishment of the chassis I stripped it back to basics. When I start to clean and reassemble the Front Disks, on which all the kit looks new(ish). I found just one damaged "anti squeal" shim. I can find NO ONE who can supply a replacement. They all want to sell a full Brake kit, just in order to get ONE SHIM!!. My have acres of life left, and are not contaminated. Anyone know of a source for JUST the shim(s) ( if they come in a pair I will buy a pair). BTW, I have tried Canley, Rimmer, and TD Fitchett, so far no joy. Pete

Yes, I thought that AFTER!. Found a piece of P-B in my scrap box which I will turn up before I do the RHS!.

Hi Update:- Finally got round to stripping the Spring off the car (Herald 13/60). It would appear to be a "Swing Spring", looking at the Canley Site Looks in good condition, just needs a good clean up. Question though, The info is that replacing the front Anti Roll bar is recommended when this conversion is done. However looking at the front ARB it has original paint on it which would suggest that the A-R bar was NOT replaced. I have checked the dia (ARB) and it is 17.42mm?. Anyone know what it should be?. Pete

Hi Just to say. They fitted Perfect. Not an enormous saving but better than "nowt" as we say. Seeing as I probably paid a fraction of what they cost now!.

HI Cheers guy`s. I reckon I will give it a punt. The bearings are Pristine wrapped/packed, despite being at least 30+year old!!. Pete

Hi I have "discovered" 3 full unused in makers packing Quintin Hazel QL 102 Universal Joints in my "collection". I am of the mind they where purchased to service my Wife`s 1600 Vitesse in the 1980`s. They LOOK as if the would be correct for the Herald (13/60) Rear drive shafts. Anyone know what the equivalent is? Rimmer list them as GUJ 115. Pete

Oop`s Double post!.

Hi. Finally got the Hub off. the Mk3 puller worked!, (5" weldable pipe flange, 2-1/2" Galvanised Pipe 1" BSW Threaded stud with 2 nuts, and a lot of rather scruffy weld!), with the judicious use of the 7lb hammer!. (Mks 1 and 2 failed, But I have to admit my welding was not of the best!.) I had to Modify a bearing puller to remove the Trunnion, but the surfaces look as if they will take a new Needle roller. Hopefully the last damaged threads on the shaft can be recovered. Does anyone know what the thread form/dia actually is. I am thinking about 15/16 A-F?.

Hi. Finally got the Hub off. the Mk3 puller worked!, (5" weldable pipe flange, 2-1/2" Galvanised Pipe 1" BSW Threaded stud with 2 nuts, and a lot of rather scruffy weld!), with the judicious use of the 7lb hammer!. (Mks 1 and 2 failed, But I have to admit my welding was not of the best!.) I had to Modify a bearing puller to remove the Trunnion, but the surfaces look as if they will take a new Needle roller. Hopefully the last damaged threads on the shaft can be recovered. Does anyone know what the thread form/dia actually is. I am thinking about 15/16 A-F?.

Hi Thanks for the info, I have most of the Bit`s I need kicking about in the garage I am sure. Hopefully some welding and a bit of Lathe work will produce a satisfactory Answer. Once removed a light skim should true the hub back up. Cheers Pete