PeteH

Something I have always done. I have been asked by several folk that very question “why”. On the big marine diesels they go as far as having the oil feed to the turbo bearings taken from a tank in the engine room upper gods, itself supplied via the pressurised system. This allows of a supply of oil to the turbo for an extended period of time after the main pumps have been shut off. Some turbochargers can idle for a considerable period. Pete

I personally, although I do have a face ache presence, am extremely cautious as to just how much information I allow. More so since my granddaughter was hacked a few years back. She suffered horribly at the hands of a decidedly nasty oiK. who was himself hacked and his site taken down by her uncle. Karmah? PETE

Does that ever surprise anyone?? Built in redundancy has been a feature of life since “god was a lad”. Enhancement of the bottom line, the mantra of “business”. 🖕 Pete

Ahh! Yessssss! Malta, some good runs ashore there. Memories!. A Night out down the "gut", (What was it`s real name???) and working in a hot engine room with a sore head next day. Pete

Carb; Icing, is a function, not of the fuel, per se, but the relationship between External Air temperature and Relative humidity. There is a useful, Article Here, Curtesy of Wiki:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor_icing Note it`s main thrust is toward Small Arcraft engines, which can suffer more. Pete

Looking tidy, All credit to you👍 Hate that white stuff though, Saw far too much "Commuting" to Sweden twice a week in winter in the 70`s. Pete

Interesting point made there. As the Freezing point of Petrol, dependant on grade and octane rating, is in the region of -50C. The likely hood is that the fuel contained Moisture (water specifically). More likely these days to be found in Bio-Fuels/Ethanol additives than straight Dinasour juice. I`ve had Diesel lines freeze in the past, But even that is not usual, as the suppliers normally put a preventative additive in the bulk fuel between October and April. In the UK petrol freezing is highly unlikely, as the lowest Temperature ever recorded was above -25C. (according to The Met Office?). I did have the Steam Heating on the Fuel Tanks of a small sulphur carrying Tanker in the Baltic one year, even then we struggled to pump the "Heavy" Fuel to the Daily Tanks, and it was touch and go as to wether we ran on the light, and substantially more expensive, "Gas Oil", normally reserved for the Generator sets. Pete

Am I right in thinking the Club Shop used to Factor, Recon Full/Half Engines at one time? Pete

Nahh!!!!. Just an MOT advisory.😁 Pete

He learned his "trade" working for HMG in Marsham St. Pete

OR, Buy the engine, use the manifold, (re)sell engine and broken manifold as spares?. Could prove cheaper in the long run?. The Basidon one, still has the exh manifold. Pete

Not the multiple layers of "nylon" tights then?.😁 ( as allegedly favoured by our "boys from Hereford" in cold climates) Pete

I suppose, if the overall condition is atractive, I might have been tempted to offer a very low bid, and leave my phone number. It`s surprising how often the phone will ring, I put in a daft offer for a Fiat (Punto) once because I knew I had the Part`s on an existing car. The phone went before I got home!. I finished up with one car out of the two and the £50, from the scrap guy!. It ran for a further 2+ years passed 2 MOT`s, and went for only £100 less than my overall outlay. Pete.

I`ve seen cast welding carried out, many years ago now. It can be done, it can also be hit and miss. The one parameter that has to be right is preheating, followed by CONTROLLED cooling. It also can affect the granular structure of the casting, ocasionally making the finish (near) imposible to machine. For very large castings, "metalock"ing is more often used. Pete

I view it as getting a second pair of eyes to check all ok, pretty much what we did examining critical components in the past. I once carried out a steam test, only 250 psi. But the fitters had overlooked the pressure controller isolating valve, had I not picked up on it the first indication would have (hopefully) been the safety valve lifting. But that too was the object of the examination to ensure they too operated at the design pressure. We even used our own certified pressure gauges. Marine or power station boilers running in excess of 600psi. Had even less room for error. Pete

Something that was not understood for many years was the fact that a tyres ability to provide grip had much to do with its compound flexibility. I have seen perfectly good visually, bags of tread etc, and yet because of age/lack of use, they are unstable on any other than dry conditions. Tyre storage is another issue, many tyre bays even, store them wrongly. Justifying it by the greater turnover. Or throughput. Currently I have the spare off my Motorhome stored in the garage at home. It’s the same age as the van. 2008 and has never seen use. Should I trust it?. Maybe as far as the nearest tyre place at relatively modest speed. But no further . Not on 3.8tonne. The 13/60 I won in 2015. Came with tyres that could easily be from the early 90’s. Never checked them as it was always the intention to replace all 5 anyway. Pete

I do have a facache presence, but never acknowledge any unsolicited contact anyway. My Grandaughter had a very bad experience a few years back when some “oik” from her college hacked her fb page and posted all sorts of abuse. My son, her uncle, tracked him down, hacked him in return, and destroyed his software. It would have been a full rebuild at the best. He does cyber security work, so it’s all in a days work for him. Pete

That is a very contentious issue amongst the Motorhome Forum`s. Especially when talking about tyre`s costing up to £200 a boot!. Pete

Yes it`s quite good too. I had the "silver" for a repair to my last Motrohome matched, When I traded in, the dealer went round it and failed to pick up on the "repair". And silver`s are a Right bitch to match properly. Pete

Post, Prompted to have a look at the Paperwork for "Plum" it transpires that it`s MOT expires 9th April. Which will fit nicely with certain plans. In My opinon there should be a requirement for a Basic MOT style test for all "historic" vehicles even if only semi annual?. Pete

"Yummy Mummies" on the school run are the bane of our lives. We live within 150 yards of a Primary school. We have double yellows, wavy school no parking lines? and the obligatory flashing 20mph sign, Total waste of time. They park as they like ALWAYS get the "little darlings" out onto the road not the verge, `cos that will muddy our 7" heels, so not only is there a parking hazzard, but we have loose kids on the road as well. How there has never been a fatality (a few near misses) is only down to the extra care the rest of "us" take. Compounded by the fact that we also have a lot of farm traffic use the road and those HGV`s making delivery. I live in a close almost opposite the entrance, so our close is the "car park". Including our driveway, which they often block. "won`t be a min, got to pick my kid(s) up" is the cry. Most have come from less than 1/2 mile, which is the nearby estate. To add insult. within 100 yards of the school entrance, is the Pharmacy, and the Doctor Surgery. Many of whose staff and clients also use our close as parking!!. I now have the front "garden" hardened and gravelled on which we park our own vehicles! Sorry guy`s. Rant over.😬 Pete

A Lot will have to do with the quality of steel used in the manufacture of NON O/E studs. The strength of any threaded component is limited by the dia of the bottom of the thread which in the case of a 3/8" "bolt" is of the order of 0.06sq inch. Not a large cross section to resist the forces normal to driving, and which would be degraded further should the bolt be overstressed by overtorqueing, especially if it takes it beyond the "elastic limit" after which the bolt never returns to original length and the dia is "waisted" making failure even more likely. In essence, once a bolt/stud is overstressed it should be in reality replaced. Uncle Pete, has advocated that if studs are replaced, serious consideration be given to upgrading, the use of land rover? studs (12mm?) Is I think the option. On balance I would definitely agree. Pete

Interestingly, My recently purchased 13/60, ("Plum" for those who remember Jeff), has a 1300 ex Spitfire singe carb engine and the o/d box. Obviously I have no means of comparing with O/E, short of swapping engines, which `aint going to happen, but it seems lively enough to drive. My veiw is the O/D makes a difference though?. Another thought?, Chasing speed and power in "elderly" cars, will only add unwanted stress to already tired parts further down/up the drive chain. Years back, swapping engines, upgrading braking sytems et-al was meat and two veg with an end use (Stage Rallying). Now a quiet Sunday drive with the hood down and a Lunch at the end of it is a more attractive option.😁 Pete

True in 90%+ of cases. Usually the torque for Alloy wheels is Lower. IE: My Motorhome, Sprinter based, has alloy wheels, the torque Figures for those is 240Nm (177Ft/lb) for Steel rims, and 180nm (133Lb/Ft) for Alloy. I would guess, with no "factory" figure to fall back on. that 38 to 40Ft/lb would be OK? for Alloy`s on a Herald or Vitesse. OR whatever the alloy wheel supplier sugested if buying new. Pete

"Nicked off faceache": Enterprising or what?. Pete