PeterH
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Posts posted by PeterH
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Not a car, but I've just had to change the fuel pipes and primer bulb on my garden strimmer. All leaking ! The local garden machinery dealer says ethanol is the cause and its bringing them a lot of extra business.
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When I restored my Mk3 Spit I bought a couple of the sealing strips 620913 that are described as 'Screen Pillar to Door Glass'. On the Rimmers website it looks as though they are used on TR4 and TR6 as well. They seem to fit on the windscreen frame in addition to the long seal coming up from the door.
I've never fitted mine as I don't quite see how they are supposed to go. I imagine they glue to the frame, but which way round ? Should the tubular seal go inside or outside the side window glass?
I'd like to fit them - if nothing else it would get them out of my box of bits.
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45 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:
Found it. Thanks.
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45 minutes ago, mishmosh said:
Members section on website. Download it.
No. Still can't find it. Where's the Members section? I have logged in, but blowed if I can see it.
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Is there a 2024 'Tax Disc' style membership disc available yet. Can't see under documents on club site.
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I finally found it again.
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Hooked under the sump rim is slacker than the outrigger hole, so plan B, bend the link wire.
I'm trying to tighten up the accelerator pedal to stop my foot bouncing on it at part throttle going up a rather rough single track local hill.
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Thanks guys.
I'll move mine down to the sump. I wanted to try to have it as intended before I bend anything to increase the tension.
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
some weird bit of memory does this not hook into a small bracket on the sump lip or similar ???
Pete
Nothing shewn in parts book, that I can see.
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Quick question. Spitfire Mk 3 (Twin SUs) in addition to the 2 return spring on the carbs the accelerator lever has a return spring with an extension link wire (136979). Where does the bottom end of this hook? I've got min in a hole in the front chassis outrigger, this this correct?
I could really do with a bit more tension for the pedal movement.
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I think I've answered my own question.
Peering into the door with the aid of a torch and mirror. There are stop brackets welded to the outside side of the two vertical runners. It looks as though they should catch the ends of the screws holding the nylon packing blocks to the bottom of the window and so stop it going too far up.
Only my screws were in the wrong way round and so the heads missed the brackets.
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What is supposed to limit the fully raised travel of the door window? If I go too far it pushes the inner sealing strip up. Spitfire Mk 3 if it makes any difference.
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I remember watching a nice little video, I think produced by the Irish Tourist Board, featuring a couple touring in a Mk3 Spitfire, probably in late '60s. I was trying to find it again but I'm not sure where or when it was. Anyone help?
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Is there a license style membership disc available ?
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What was the conclusion about poor door alignment on a Spitfire ? Was it that modern floor pressings weren't wide enough or was the problem with the sill? I'm talking about the door bottom corner not aligning with the 'B' post.
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This might well have been asked before, but is there a knack to fitting the clutch (or brake) pedal gaiter - the one that fits on the the end of the master cylinder covering the clevis pin. Trying to get it to fit into the bulkhead hole is a *******
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Anybody any experience of the 'Ceramic' type car polish? Are they better than the normal wax and worth the extra cost? There are various makes on the market all claiming great things.
I'm really looking for protection to my celly paint that is showing water droplet marks.
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Live feed on YouTube
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Diff mounts look OK. Yes I have wire wheels, but I thought that by jacking only 1 side up and with it in gear I could try rotating the wheel to see where the clunk came from. There is no noise from either wheel only the play in the diff as mentioned before.
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I'm still trying to cure a clunk from the back axle on take up and over run. Last year I did all the UJs (good quality replacements), I've got a rather unusual prop shaft (Frictionless) (subject to earlier post), there's a bit of play but I don't think that is enough for the clunk. Where there is quite a lot of play is in the diff. With one wheel blocked and turning the other there's quite a lot of movement and a distinct knock. I'm wondering if its the splines on the inner drive shaft.
Any ideas on what is acceptable. Rimmers and Canley both say they are no longer available.
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Our Freesat Program guide gives the schedule. Try getting your box to re-tune. That gave me several stations information that weren't previously on.
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I may have said this before, but I was an apprentice and worked for several years in Banner Lane (Massey Ferguson) in the early 1970s. Quite a lot of the office furniture was still marked 'Standard Motors'
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Someone in another club has recommended Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure. I thought they were joking but it's quite genuine. The name will lead to all sorts of innuendo but has anyone tried it?
Ethanol
in My NON-Triumph cars
Posted
I regularly do the opposite - pinch petrol intended for the strimmer for use in the car, as long as its not had the 2-stoke oil added.🤣