Adrian

Sounds exactly the same problem I had, fine when cold but once hot no power and failed to start, had to wait an hour or so for it to cool down and started again. Air leakage in the carbs. I replaced seals (obviously old and brittle), spindles etc, and......no discernable change once hot and continued to run fine. Adrian

I Worked for Tarmac in the 90's as part of their environmental technical services section and worked on cleaning up the site in '96. I think it is safe to say that the attached is the last part, albeit unfinished, to come out of the factory as it was dug up along with some old bottles close to the old level crossing. If only I'd known then to take more pictures, although it was already half demolished and mainly stripped out.

I've been very reluctant to comment on this. First and foremost the openness and welcoming nature of the forum was by far the most appealing point of membership. I used the shop discount but not any insurance or any meets, etc but that is a personal choice. We have had extremes of comments here which I must admit saddens me greatly as none members appear to be categorised as second class citizens. It is worth noting that none member rates at the shop do contribute to the club as well as (I assume) meets etc. By all means if you wish to restrict access to none members do so. Perhaps if it is so precious, you add a category for none members questions which if posted in other restricted areas is transferred to this area to allow continued access? I do realise that we live in a world where internet bullying, pishing, etc occurs and can fully support measures to eradicate this. I urge you all, please keep this forum open, friendly and welcoming. Adrian

I think the reaper was distracted from me - so far so good! Reaper aside I have no idea how I fitted into those clothes when I was in my 20's. I have a belt from then that doesn't even meet in the middle....have I changed that much?

Hi Chaps Just wondered, I've shared equipment (not expensive (engine stand)) to member. And not heard anything back after 3 yrs + -----------------Am i just stupid? I Write this on principal... After Asthma and Cancer it seems trivial. Has it gone???? Cheers Adrian

I bought the Halfords all season car covers when I moved house - reportedly breathable, thick and fleece lined and a reasonable price. Perfect for 3 months whilst I sorted the garage BUT can't comment on longevity. I worried about wind scuffing maybe a separate fleece cover underneath?

Look at the jump in bids - recon it was bought by seller!!!!

Hi Chaps I don't want to appear disinterested but, I feel that whilst historic pictures of our cars are of interest (especially if you own them! and it is important not to loose the history), BUT, I'd be more interested in the mundane connection individuals had with 'their' cars. I'D like to see what you did with YOUR cars or indeed the connections you had with your parents cars?. No offence!!!

I wasn't aware of any bussbar solution so I used a wire looping from one live to the next using a spade connector with a female spur to join successive terminals. Maybe not as neat but it works!

Whilst Zenith are carb specialists they do stock linkage parts. I got a new spring linkage when I rebuilt mine (although mine was a Mk3 (CD150SE)). Take a look on their website. You can buy a brass rod if needed and cut it to length. I bought a tube to cut to a small collar to accommodate the smaller throttle spindle diameter as the original is as Colin said 'no longer available'. Cheers Adrian

Got one of those, only unusual thing was it left the factory with wire wheels! It was more the previous owners and knowing where it moved around the country!

Hi all, been a while, all those little jobs still to do! BUT given the above limited information has anyone paid the £7 for the history on carcheck.co.uk? Not a big cost but if it comes back as unknown it would be a waste! Cheers Adrian

Did all my interior with Owens stuff....brilliant

I didn’t change the bush, just the seals. The aperture in the new bushes in the rebuild kit were actually a fraction bigger than original and as original wasn’t worn no need. I would be a bit apprehensive if i had to change the bushes!

Hi Pete No idea why i can't post video any more probably some incompatability from apple to microsoft. So basically pressing the accelerator there is a very stumbly/stuttery response which is increasingly difficult to build revs as the engine gets hotter (fine initially when its cooler). The stumbling even causes the stearing column to shake. i'll have another go at a lower resolution video.

Right so all complete and went for a very hot shakedown run BUT forgot to put oil in the dash pots. Now I might be wrong but it’s to dampen the piston lift to limit over fuelling? Either way I filmed the stuttering/shaking and failure to Rev up smoothly when hot. Carbs currently set up neutral and balanced with the hose mechanism. So what’s wrong? IMG_3099.MOV

Alright Hollander! Some scenic Scandanavian flat place.

I bought a teflon rod and used the Dutch site for dimentions, a friend knocked them up.

Noted. Was reffering to home market👍

Er in doors wont let me get another car but I'm curious and we have had a few discussions about the value of cars but saw this on e bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203522397044?hash=item2f62e15374:g:ZEIAAOSwIWNg6zQI an import in what I think is poor condition (but seems structurally sound) that probably needs a full rebuild. Its LHD which drops the value but a Mk2 that raises it a bit. It got me thinking, a wreck of a standard mini can cost pennies to £1500 but complete would probably only be valued at £4-5K but cost significantly more to complete. Same with this GT6+ not what I'd call a desirable car being LHD but would require a significant cost to restore. Do you work to a formula or just let your heart and desire dictate the price? Adrian

Spotted a 2000, TR6 and Spitfire in convoy yesterday around 2.

I did this for my GT6 and Is actually quite simple and logical. Keep it slow to make sure you give adhesive time to go off and use plenty of ties tightened steadily and evenly to prevent any ripping. In hind sight I could probably of tightened mine more.

Mr Henderson, my O'level metal work teacher taught half forward and quarter back. Thats from the early 80's, but as we know what is the norm one moment is the opposite the next.....cough cough to wear a mask or not, look at how the mask fiasco evolved for Covid!! I think based on all the sound advice give on this forum there is always more than one way to skin a cat. What works for one may not work for another.

Thanks everybody for your words of wisdom. I put the carbs back on and have tentatively turned the key after manually priming from the pump. Took a while to fire but initially very uneven but stayed alive long enough for me to adjust the idle and get it warm. Used the hose method to balance, if I've done it right its nice and easy! One thing I noticed straight away was it idled at lower revs much more evenly and lower than I could before (settled around the 800 rpm) and the rev counter was steady rather than flicking through a range of 500 rpm or so. Next job is to reinstall the throttle linkage and probably take it for a spin! Although first have to sort the accelerator cable that has frayed since installing and can't fit back into the clamp!

Hi all. This is probably a strange question about a nonservicable item. I can’t find any threads or entries in the manuals. Basically should the dash pot damper assembly be loose or should the sting clip be tighter to the base?