Adrian

Hi Doug My thoughts exactly but being a first timer I've opted for the kit. Also read off the tags to Zenith who are also supplying matched new jet/needles. The way things are going the only things remaining untouched are going to be the diff, gears and head/pistons. As he's being gumpy about the carbs I may as well pull the gearbox and replace gaskets there as well!

Hmm comming up to 30 yrs and all I have to look out on are guinea pigs!

Please don’t tell me that’s where you have your cars......sooooo jealous! welcome

I have the car back now as I wasn't going to let them do it. Rebuild kit on order. If needed they said they would be happy to ream anything, etc. I think it is the spindle but will check over the next week or so. According to my records other than tuning, the carbs are untouched from at least 1990 when the car was repaired/rebuilt by Sports Car Supplies so plently of time to wear out. With any luck it might just be the spindle and the rest just needs a good clean. But as the rebuild kit contains bushes, etc should they be replaced as well even if the originals appear ok? Looked at a few feeds already and some especially on the 175's is very good. Cheers Adrian

Hi Chaps Following on from my fuel has lost its oomph the issue hasen't been resolved as the garage has said there is some wear in the components and a call to Zenith diagnosed the fact that tuning couldn't lean the mixture enough concluded that a rebuild was needed. So where do we go from here, kit on order but obviously no instructions. I have the Haynes Stromberg book. But I wondered if anyone had done a step by step rebuild tutorial? I could attempt it here if no one has (I have found a cd150 rebuild on youtube), but would need a lot of input and checks from everyone. I know some components may need reaming. Cheers Adrian

Hi Pete was it standard fuel, no preservative, octane boost?

Hi Chaps I took the car to the garage and they confirmed the alternator was just about holding its own at 12.6v. With regard to not running when it's hot they said ther was an air leak from a wrongly installed gasket on one of the carbs which appeared to result in almost running on 3 cylinders. I can't deny It was my fault but given my totally amateur status a wrongly installed gasket from an engine out partial rebuild is pretty good in my eyes. The garage said they were actually impressed with the restoration and presentation, apart from the gear box which I haven't touched. On the ramps they can see a leak from a couple of gaskets front and back of box AND noticed miss alignment on the mounting plate as has been identified and discussed before. The leak isn't major and will enjoy this years driving once tuned up before considering stripping it out. Just out of interest I'm going to have to replace the alternator. Given that various conversions are out there how do you know which one? Its a Valeo 436140, no idea what amperage but Rimmer replacement is 36 amps?

Its only about 3 years old and whilst not an expensive one hasn't seen a lot of action so would expect it to be reasonably accurate. Maybe its time to take it to the garage! Any suggestions for a reasonable and accurate tester? fundamentally I'm getting a constant 12.5v at the battery not flickering around. Tried an AA cell battery and got 1.43v, again not flickering. The flickering only seems to happen when the engine is running which suggests an inconsistent electricity generation? Any suggestions for a replacement if needed. What amps, brand, source?

Perhaps I need to repost now in electrical but anyway tested the alternator with the engine running and only getting 12.8 volts at the battery (more consistent but it did flicker around a bit). Does it make a difference testing once started or waiting till warmed up? Generally 0.1-0.3 A/C at the alternator but occasionally spiked to 0.4-0.5. So looks like its the alternator. Adrian

I've been measuring the altermator output to the resistor and getting highly variable readings (with engine running). I'll check the charge to the battery tomorrow (the red charge light on the dash is working). Not sure if I can get an accurate check for A/C current >0.5v on the alternator as mine has 200 or 500 so not sure if it is low enough (I've read >0.5 A/C indicates diode failure). Definately no pink/white wire, on close inspection it is the standard white/yellow so its all pretty standard wiring and components. But definately not getting a constant 12V feed to the resistor. (maybe I didn't make it clear, but the later measurements are with the engine running). Cheers Adrian

I work in contaminated land assessments and cleanup so got an insght into quite literally the last days of the factory buildings. Given over 100 yrs of industrial activity there is always much more going on than you'd expect. One area of the site was saturated in aviation fuel so it is highly likely that some war time development work took place and quite possibly onsite fuel storage for plant and vehicles. Dug out a couple of nice historic glass bottles (old dump, nr the rorthern boundary near the level crossing). I did dig up a blank what looks like a con rod cap but the number doesn't corelate to a part number (maybe a casing number).

Yes my understanding as well, no red wine just a pint full of ignorance. Alternator output was definitely not 12 or even close, again jumping all over the place and typically appeared 1 or 2 occasionally 11, etc. My expectations were a constant 12ish volts. following Graham’s point I won’t see an accurate reading at the coil but would expect an even 12ish in and 6volts out of the ballast resistor unless of course the draw impacts resistor readings as well?

As a minimum should I be seeing a constant 12v coming from the alternator to the ballast, or does that flicker around as well because it seems to be the latter in my case. Whilst the charge fault light is not lit could there be a fault in the alternator if I don’t see 12v?

Hi all Prior to any rebuild it was running fine so whilst a very good point regarding the ballast wire I don't think I have that. On closer inspection I have noted that the lower alternator input to the ballast was a little loose (but not completely floppy). I tightened it up and the car fired up nicely if a little uneven, I left it running till it got hotter than when I had the trouble and has not dropped off or missfired other than a little on the over run. I realise it may be different under load and that also the new fuel may have helped with a more even burn. Very very useful information about the digital meter not reacting fast enough. The knowledge is building......slowly. Could the looser connection and getting rid of the older fuel be the problem?

I found an email from Angie confirming it’s a H+H. I can remember at the time of ordering that I has to say ballasted or not.

As in the distributor? It had better be right because is was ordered through the club and wasn’t cheap! The voltage range was highly variable from 0.2 up to 12 then maybe 8 and numerous stops up and down in between!

Ok tried it and the numbers were everywhere as attached at the coil. I was expecting an even 6 and 12, roughly so really have no idea. The coil is an intermotor 1.5 coil for ballasted resistor cars (model No 11070-B). IMG_2933.MOV

Hi I've got 12 V from the distributor to the Coil and 12 v from the ballast (just with the ignition turned to live, not engine running) I'm tempted to run it and idle to heat up to get the redex dosed 75% new fuel going through the system, get to temperature and see if that might help. I can't find my reciept for the distributor so have asked Angie if she might have a record of it.

Had a quick look and black from dizzy -ve coil and +ve red dizzy to +ve coil as well as yellow ballast resistor.

Thanks for getting back to me. The tank is effectively new, no debris at all. The dizzy is a new electronic Lucas upgrade from the club shop. The coil is fairly new 4 yrs with very minimal use due to rebuild although it is a generic coil, nothing special. HT leads new. not really sure how to go about the wiring testing as it’s all worked fine in the garage.

Hi Chaps Took your advice this evening drove to shell for some 99Ron V power. Had 1/4 of a tank of old fuel left put £45 of fresh in. Had trouble from the very start getting going and just got in from 2 1/2 hrs, 1/2 mile from the garage broken down. Very lumpy, uneven running and absolutely no pulling power, could not move as on a slight upward incline which seems to make it worse so not sure about going to a car show this weekend, or indeed anywhere at the moment. Maybe you can help with a bit more diagnostics....basically I was able to get home after waiting endlessly for the RAC who didn't arrive by which time it had cooled down and ran much better, but still as it got hotter (the temperature was normal) I could feel it starting to slip away again. Any ideas or do I admit defeat and take it to the garage? Cheers Adrian

I Tried these on mine and felt they just didn't seat right or look right. But theres no denighing it captured the fluid!

Hi All Its a been a while since I last visited the site (in its modern state) and a long time since some of the buildings were up (1996) when Tarmac demolished them. Do you think it might be worthwhile to try poole our resources / access to limited sites where we might build a bit of history associated with our cars birth. Sadly I have photos of the demolition of the water tower (I wish I had more of the rest) and memories of walking thorugh many dark buildings. Maybe have it as a club resource to build up with time. All I can say is there was pure red diesel seeping out of rock fissures whilst we cleaned up the site as well as an historic cellar buried under a cast slab FULL of TCE contaminated debris - made your eyes sting! I can remember standing 4m below ground level in front of the current hotel because of contamination from an interceptor! Less said about asbestos the better. But nevertheless this is why i decided to keep a triumph on the road. Does anyone have anything from the heyday? I think it would be really cool to stand close to the production lines where our cars were made.

As a lay person I'd say simple physics would sugest a liquid being delivered at the carbs (as designed) will produce the anticipated burn and consequently 'bang'. A vapour entering the carbs has a lower density and therfore weaker 'bang' as it is already a vapour. Interesting point from Nick. Is it at the pump that vapourisation occurs (the last main contact with the block prior to the carbs) or just heating of the pipes within the engine bay? and what does vapourisation sound like? Adrian

Certainly makes you wonder what could have been if it wasn’t for the cumbersome inefficient cost cutting impersonal BMC machine combined with powerful union action and poor government combining in a perfect storm to decimate the industry reputation. A lot to be said about keeping it smaller and more manageable. Really interesting!